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FLU419 won't start. need help!

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
I didn't need or use any special tools. Just replaced loose or questionable lines as needed.

That SEE will be expensive for you if you don't work on it yourself, and without throwing parts at it.
 

The FLU farm

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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The actual midwest, NM.
Did you use hard line on the banjo fittings? How did you attach them?
You really can't use anything but the OE style plastic lines , or rubber hose, I suppose. Of course, now I can't remember if anything was different on the banjo fittings, but I doubt it.

Anyway, I just heated the plastic up a bit and pushed it onto the fittings. It may have been described in more detail in the long but educational "owners" thread.
 

majkowskid

Member
50
39
18
Location
The Great State of Texas
You really can't use anything but the OE style plastic lines , or rubber hose, I suppose. Of course, now I can't remember if anything was different on the banjo fittings, but I doubt it.

Anyway, I just heated the plastic up a bit and pushed it onto the fittings. It may have been described in more detail in the long but educational "owners" thread.
Oh I honestly didn’t know that’s how you connected them. What’s this owners thread you speak of? I’m a newbie here!
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,328
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
That may not be the officially approved method, but that's how I connected them. And it worked.

That long thread is called "SEE, HMMH, and HME owners group", or something close to that. Most everything FLU related has been covered in that one, sometimes repeatedly. Be prepared to spend some time, reading as much as you can/can comprehend at a time. I reread it occasionally to refresh my memory.
 

majkowskid

Member
50
39
18
Location
The Great State of Texas
That may not be the officially approved method, but that's how I connected them. And it worked.

That long thread is called "SEE, HMMH, and HME owners group", or something close to that. Most everything FLU related has been covered in that one, sometimes repeatedly. Be prepared to spend some time, reading as much as you can/can comprehend at a time. I reread it occasionally to refresh my memory.
Thank you!!
 

majkowskid

Member
50
39
18
Location
The Great State of Texas
ok everyone, i got it all fixed. i wanted to report back in case this helps everyone.

Background is all above... this weekend i did the following:
1. replaced lift pump. no improvement.
2. replace EVERY crush washer on every line. no improvement.
3. pressurized tank. no improvement.
4. Bypassed everything with new 1/2" ID line from tank directly to inlet side of primer pump. tried to prime sytstem... noticed immediately a difference in what priming felt like. you could feel and hear fuel moving. there was resistance on the primer. before, my primer would simply move up and down with ouly the spring resistance. when icracked bleed screw i pumped like less than 10 times and fuel was POURING out of the filter.
5. started mog and it runs perfectly. never had this throttle response etc. i always just figured it was a dog because of it's weight, but it's much more responsive, top speed is higher, etc.

6. i began to plumb back in everything i bypassed, meaning the fuel shutoff valve, and the debris screen. i removed them both, and cut the lines off the brass barbs on each end. I immediately noticed that the barb on the EXIT side of the fuel cutoff was PACKED with debris. which is extremely weird, because i ran 60 psi air through it without any resistance that i noticed. the amount of trash that was packed on the exit side of the valve was insane. it was BEFORE the sediment filter.

all in all, she's running great and has new fuel line on the input side. wasted money on a lift pump.. if anyone needs one, i have a factory unit with new primer i'll sell pretty cheap :) it has less than 20 hours on it and i took it apart and everything is pristine condition.


after i got it running, i took of the leaking boom cylinder and it's being repacked as we speak. next up fixing an air leak and finding my coolant leak!

thanks everyone!
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
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Location
northern nh
ok everyone, i got it all fixed. i wanted to report back in case this helps everyone.

Background is all above... this weekend i did the following:
1. replaced lift pump. no improvement.
2. replace EVERY crush washer on every line. no improvement.
3. pressurized tank. no improvement.
4. Bypassed everything with new 1/2" ID line from tank directly to inlet side of primer pump. tried to prime sytstem... noticed immediately a difference in what priming felt like. you could feel and hear fuel moving. there was resistance on the primer. before, my primer would simply move up and down with ouly the spring resistance. when icracked bleed screw i pumped like less than 10 times and fuel was POURING out of the filter.
5. started mog and it runs perfectly. never had this throttle response etc. i always just figured it was a dog because of it's weight, but it's much more responsive, top speed is higher, etc.

6. i began to plumb back in everything i bypassed, meaning the fuel shutoff valve, and the debris screen. i removed them both, and cut the lines off the brass barbs on each end. I immediately noticed that the barb on the EXIT side of the fuel cutoff was PACKED with debris. which is extremely weird, because i ran 60 psi air through it without any resistance that i noticed. the amount of trash that was packed on the exit side of the valve was insane. it was BEFORE the sediment filter.

all in all, she's running great and has new fuel line on the input side. wasted money on a lift pump.. if anyone needs one, i have a factory unit with new primer i'll sell pretty cheap :) it has less than 20 hours on it and i took it apart and everything is pristine condition.


after i got it running, i took of the leaking boom cylinder and it's being repacked as we speak. next up fixing an air leak and finding my coolant leak!

thanks everyone!
Yup, crapped up fuel system will get folks everytime. I hope you didnt pay a mechanic to solve it. We all end up with miscellaneous spare Unimog parts, I think its an ownership requirement ;)
 
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