• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Flywheel bolts

bkwudzhom

Member
322
1
18
Location
ga
I have gotten the time to work on the 1008 flywheel last night and got down to the flywheel /crank bolts. I am having trouble getting the flywheel bolts that bolt it to the crankloose. I just wanna be sure that they are threaded normally before I really work on them. Also any suggestions on how to brace the flywheel to keep it from turning??
Tks ,
 

EO2NMCB

Member
643
22
18
Location
DeSoto, MO
They are normal right hand threads. I ziped my off with an inpact with no trouble, the motor was out of the cucv at the time.
 

Jake0147

Member
782
18
18
Location
Panton, VT
Yes, they are standard threads. They are fine threads. Many mechanic's (and by extension I'm quite sure some of the ones in the military as well) are pretty convinced that half of a bottle of locktite is the solution for bolts that are prone to backing off, and torque wrenches are an old wives tale. Many are also convinced that "inadequate recommended torque" is the reason for the semi-common cracking condition that occurs in a lot of GM drive plates (regardless of the lack of evidence of movement under the bolts), and the other half of the bottle of locktite will fix that issue too. The real answer is "NO" in both cases, but don't be surprised if they may take more than a reasonable effort to remove.

Holding the flywheel can be done with a flywheel holder tool, available from your local tool trucks for a boatload of money (well, they're not that bad, but for one time use...?) They're probably available at larger parts stores or Sears. Or, you can "tack"the starter back in place with the two big bolts if it's removed (wires and braces are not necessary at this time, but need not be removed either) and wedge a prybar between the starter driven teeth and the nose cone of the starter. (Even the professional tools only hold it still by a starter tooth, so it's only half as butch as it sounds). Just hold the prybar straight so that you don't get a bending motion going on. They're resiliant, so if you see it start to flex, stop pushing and adjust your angle of course, but they are a "flex plate", and don't loose their shape "too" easily.
 

ralbelt

Active member
1,056
9
38
Location
West Warwick, R.I.
I used a pry bar against a tooth and also used a wrench on one bolt and a socket on another. One or the other would loosen and would have to use the pry bar on the last one.
 

bkwudzhom

Member
322
1
18
Location
ga
Rain kept me from it Sat. and Sun. and I had to work a double shift yesterday. Hopefully This afternoon will pan out and I can get this !*#*^%&$^ thing replaced. It has me held up on a couple of other projects I need my truck for!!!!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks