Is 6.2 and 6.5 flywheels interchangeable? Show different part numbers. Also is gr starter different from Auto to man trans? What I'm doing is taking motor out cucv and putting in a k20 sm465 4x4. The k20 6.2 broke crank at 300k plus. I have serval of these trucks why is some louder than others at idle? Thanks again for the advice
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Flywheel clutch info needed
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The sm465 is a 4 speed manual.
Ooops im sorry i should have paid attention when reading.
But who here would know part numbers for a manual transmission in this forum?
im sure 99% of cucv owners have a automatic transmission
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I think Recovry4x4 did the swap .
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Here are the parts I used when I did the SM swap in my CUCV. It still doesn't answer interchangeability question with the 6.5. AMS Automotive flywheel 167658. AMS Automotive clutch kit 04087. Dorman flywheel bolts. 678154. All parts were sourced through Rock Auto.
Edit: Rock Auto lists a different part number for a 6.5. I used 1994 as a vehicle check since CUCVs never came with a 6.5.
I reread your original post. Where did the 6.5 come into play? Certainly not from a CUCV unless it was swapped in. As far as sound, timing is everything. Advanced pump time increases the rattle a bunch.
Edit: Rock Auto lists a different part number for a 6.5. I used 1994 as a vehicle check since CUCVs never came with a 6.5.
I reread your original post. Where did the 6.5 come into play? Certainly not from a CUCV unless it was swapped in. As far as sound, timing is everything. Advanced pump time increases the rattle a bunch.
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Barrman
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I just put a 6.2 and a 6.5 flexplate next to each other and looked them over. Everything was the same except the part number as far as I could tell. No massive weights or anything like that on one that wasn't on the other.
Most direct drive starters were automatic or manual specific. All of the CUCV direct drive starters had a little bitty opening for the Bendix drive gear to pop out of. The small mouth direct drive starter will not even bolt onto an engine that has a flywheel and clutch installed. I found a big mouth direct drive starter nose cone for my 6.2/NV4500 swap into my M715 at a NAPA for around $20 in 2013. I have seen them on EBay every so often as well.
Redux starters it seems were small mouth and big mouth for years. Now, pretty much every redux starter you see has the big mouth. Again, if you have the small mouth automatic redux. A large mouth manual nose cone can be swapped in.
Most direct drive starters were automatic or manual specific. All of the CUCV direct drive starters had a little bitty opening for the Bendix drive gear to pop out of. The small mouth direct drive starter will not even bolt onto an engine that has a flywheel and clutch installed. I found a big mouth direct drive starter nose cone for my 6.2/NV4500 swap into my M715 at a NAPA for around $20 in 2013. I have seen them on EBay every so often as well.
Redux starters it seems were small mouth and big mouth for years. Now, pretty much every redux starter you see has the big mouth. Again, if you have the small mouth automatic redux. A large mouth manual nose cone can be swapped in.
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I have always used them in-distinctively, on either engine. Balancing counterweight and relative placement is exactly the same.
Keith_J
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Rattle can also be from transfer pump regulator sticking. I've had this problem recently, added 2 ounces of Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle and the problem went away. It was very loud at 55-60 MPH part throttle (550-600 F EGT) and went away when I floored the skinny pedal.
What happens is the timing advance is based on transfer pressure which almost tracks RPM. Diesel fuel with biodiesel can cause the regulator to stick, increasing transfer pressure which then advances timing.
I've tried many diesel fuel treatments, Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle works the best.
What happens is the timing advance is based on transfer pressure which almost tracks RPM. Diesel fuel with biodiesel can cause the regulator to stick, increasing transfer pressure which then advances timing.
I've tried many diesel fuel treatments, Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle works the best.
skysix
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Recovry4x4: Doing a similar swap - do you have a build thread or tips? Adding a Ranger gear splitter in front of the SM465 and the ORD shortv32 spline output/3.5" 205 adapter
nyoffroad
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I did the same thing with the splitter, keep in mind the shifter hole has to be moved back 8" and that it hits the stock seat. I heated and bent my shifter a bit ( it helped but not much) it still pops out of reverse sometimes unless I hold it. A seat change may be in my future. That's about all I can add.
skysix
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i have no shifter hole currently (TH400) but thanks for the info. I think I have seen a seat that had a notched front frame rail and cushion somewhere on the interwebs.... but yes re custom bend on gearshift
Funnily enough if you use the ORD short shaft and adapter and a Magnum ahead of the 205, the 205 only moves back 7/8" from where it was with the TH400