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flywheel housing studs

darksheep85

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I have the transmission out of my deuce right now to do a clutch replacement. Also new gaskets and seals for the transmission, pto, bellhousing adapter ring, and flywheel housing. Also a rear main seal.
Upon removal of the flywheel, to my horror, I discovered a huge crack in the flywheel housing running from the top left, down to the bottom left, around a stud, and across to the bottom right. Glad I caught that. And besides the crack, I noticed that one of the studs that attach the engine block to the flywheel housing was sheared off. Luckily there is enough to get a stud remover on it and get it out. But if someone could tell me what size these studs are, or if they are available somewhere specifically for this application.
I already have a new flywheel housing from Oshkosh Equipment and when I go to replace it, I want to have a new stud ready to go. I really don't want that engine dangling in mid-air for too long while I'm running around trying to find a replacement.
Also, as a side note, I noticed that my flywheel housing has a drain hole/fording hole, but it does not have the extra casting boss to store the plug when not in use. And the inside of the housing doesn't look like the new one I got from Oshkosh. My housing has a perfect circle shaped hole to go around the crankshaft flange and rear main seal. The new housing is correct as far as I've seem from others pictures. The hole curves around the top and sides of the crankshaft but then goes down at a slight angle to the bottom.
My M35a2 W/W was built in 1971. The engine is a D turbo and the data tag under the exhaust manifold says it is a Hercules and was manufactured in 1990. So i guess it has been through a depot. I found a triangle rebuild tag inside the drivers door jamb but was painted over, and when I tried to remove the paint, everything came off. So....I'd be interested to know what that housing is actually supposed to be on.

So in closing, any idea on stud size/availability, and any ideas on this weird flywheel housing?

Thanks for any help.
 

darksheep85

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Thanks. If you have time, just pull one out and figure out the threads and length and that would probably get me by. Might have to order a pack from ARP.
 

jasonjc

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I found a triangle rebuild tag inside the drivers door jamb but was painted over, and when I tried to remove the paint, everything came off.

That tag is more than likely the MWO tag for seat belts. A depot rebuild tag is much bigger. A new motor does not mean rebuild , the military will replace a motor for the dumbest things.

When I was in the army , I had to take a hmmwv in for it's first service. It only had a few thousand miles we got it new. Two days later the motor pool calls and says it's going to 3rd shop to get the engine replaced. They said the water pump was bad.
 

rustystud

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That tag is more than likely the MWO tag for seat belts. A depot rebuild tag is much bigger. A new motor does not mean rebuild , the military will replace a motor for the dumbest things.

When I was in the army , I had to take a hmmwv in for it's first service. It only had a few thousand miles we got it new. Two days later the motor pool calls and says it's going to 3rd shop to get the engine replaced. They said the water pump was bad.
That's the difference between the Army and Marines. The Army has the money to do crazy things like that. In the Marines we would scrounge up something to replace the water pump or try and steal one from the Navy or Coast Guard down the street !
Adapt-Improvise-Overcome !
 

SCSG-G4

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Flywheel housings for Marine Corps trucks did not have the storage hole because the plug was left in place all the time in operation as part of the deep water fording kit. Truck was ready to 'go swimming' all the time. Plug only removed for inspection when at the motor pool.
 

WillWagner

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And don't forget that the housing will need to be dialed in or centered to the crank or it will break the flywheel hsg again
 

darksheep85

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By the way, does anybody have a good way to support the engine while replacing the flywheel housing? I was thinking about holding it up with a bottle jack and a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan. But I worry about the oil pan collapsing under the weight. Otherwise, I'll be in search of a gantry crane.
 

dmetalmiki

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Support the base of the sump with a thick strong block, and support that with a trolley jack, or, as we did one time four bottle jacks.
 

gimpyrobb

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Personally, I would jack the trucks front bumper up so I could pull the oil-pan(that will let the axle droop). With the oil-pan out of the way, you could use 2x4 or 4x4s to support the weight of the block.
 

cattlerepairman

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And don't forget that the housing will need to be dialed in or centered to the crank or it will break the flywheel hsg again
Here is a short youtube video by what looks like an eager apprentice mechanic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kctFgCiW5GM
Specs for the multifuel bell housing runout can be found in TM 9-2815-210-34-2-2 link: http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/LD-465Maint.Man.TM9-2815-210-34-2-2.pdf page 5-75 and thereabouts

Runout for the bell housing face AND runout (out-of-round) for the inside must be 0.012 inch or less.
 

WillWagner

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You can use a bottle jack on the ban rail and you'll be fine. No need to drop the pan, just make sure the jack is on the head of a pan bolt so you don't bend the pan.
 

rustystud

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Here is a short youtube video by what looks like an eager apprentice mechanic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kctFgCiW5GM
Specs for the multifuel bell housing runout can be found in TM 9-2815-210-34-2-2 link: http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/LD-465Maint.Man.TM9-2815-210-34-2-2.pdf page 5-75 and thereabouts

Runout for the bell housing face AND runout (out-of-round) for the inside must be 0.012 inch or less.
Yep, that's a young apprentice learning his trade. Fun memories !
 

darksheep85

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Newberry, SC
Well, I used a battle jack on top of a bunch of cinder blocks to support the engine and got the flywheel housing changed out. Old cracked one was cast iron that held the rear main seal by itself, and new housing is aluminum that requires the separate seal housing. So a new seal housing is on the way.

Here's the question I need a quick answer on: I see that the seal housing also uses some kind of locking tab thingys that I guess are supposed to keep the seal from walking itself out of the housing. Do I need 1 tab, 2 tabs, or do I need them at all? Kinda need a quick response on this one. I'm jonesing pretty hard to back behind the wheel and can only work on it on the weekend. I'm trying to gather everything I need before this weekend.
 
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