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Good information. The transmission via the neutral start relay provides 24V to the start relay K1 In the PDP. The start button provides a path to ground to energize K1, via the contacts of the starter lockout relay(K24) which disables the starter once the engine has oil pressure. That is the most complex part of the start circuit, so K1 clicking in the PDP when you push the button is a good thing.The start relay on the fuse panel presumably. That's where it sounds like it is coming from. The first time this issue happened for me, it was 2am in a blizzard on a 2000 mile trip. I had to call a truck out to run enough air to get the cab up enough because my manual pump is broken. It started OK with a screwdriver and then acted normally for a long time (months), but then it's just happened again. I do know it's not the batteries, I load tested them all and you can tell because the voltage gauge doesn't budge when you hit the button. I didn't get around to trying to screwdriver it this time, and even if it works, I'd rather actually fix the issue, so I like it broken if that makes sense. This happened to me on a 300 mile trip towing a M1082 and thank god it worked fine the entire trip, and then died the very NEXT time I tried to start it at the final destination.
And yes, I have been through all the relays & fuses. It's probably the wiring somewhere or the solenoid. I haven't tried hitting it or measuring the wire on the solenoid to see if it's getting power from the button, todo items. The other thing that cropped up is that my start inhibit switch is open regardless of pressing it, like it's broken. But my understanding is even if it was inhibited it would still crank, just not fire because no fuel. I don't know if it's supposed to be NC or NO in the operating position, I have not gotten into the schematics yet, but my guess is that wasn't the issue. I tried jumpering the wires to the switch regardless, did not fix.
TCM/VIM/whatever is good, shows neutral.
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