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foaming power steering fluid and hard to steer

yellowstonebill

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I have a 87 Humvee and the power steering pump is making a lot of noise like it is full of ball bearings or something and it is foaming really bad. The radiator was recently pulled out for repair and replaced so I checked the lines that go to the cooler and everything seems to be correct. Yesterday I sucked out some fluid and added a bottle of Lucus power steering additive and it did not help at all. I can't figure out why it is foaming so bad, like it is getting air from somewhere. Do I need to get a new pump or could it be the hydro assist unit. If I do need a new pump will a regular pump for a 6.2 work on the H1
And yes it is hard to turn the steering wheel until it runs a few minutes.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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You have air in the system...but you need to also remember you don't have PS fluid in the PS pump...it's Dexron III ATF.
so adding that additive may not have been a very good idea.
 

papakb

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Steve is correct here, your steering system has air getting into it somewhere. Take a good look at all of your steering hoses and see if there's and wetness on them. The pump and steering box are Saginaw units and aren't specific to the HMMWV. You can pick them up at any parts store or online. If there is a steering cooler at the front of your cooling stack make sure you give it a close inspection too. The steering system is Dexron fluid but I've seen people add regular steering fluid to it and it doesn't seem to have a negative effect on it.
 

infidel got me

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To purge air from p/s system start truck, turn wheels to full lock right or left, turn truck off while steering wheel is at full lock. Let truck sit for 15 min. while off. Start truck, turn steering wheel the opposite direction, turn truck off, let sit 15 min. while truck is sitting you can remove p/s cap and see air bubbles purging to top. If you fill p/s system and don't purge air, all you do is aerate the system--it has to be done with truck off. It probably sounds like a old ford Taurus lol
 

infidel got me

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2w091- I hate to say it but I disagree with that article. If you cycle the wheel 40 times all you doing is wearing out your arms and aerating the system even further. Same theory for bleeding brakes, if you rabbit pump the brake pedal, all your doing is moving air back and forth in the line. A slow/gradual push on the pedal will get you better results.
 

2w091

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2w091- I hate to say it but I disagree with that article. If you cycle the wheel 40 times all you doing is wearing out your arms and aerating the system even further. Same theory for bleeding brakes, if you rabbit pump the brake pedal, all your doing is moving air back and forth in the line. A slow/gradual push on the pedal will get you better results.
Just going by the tech data, worked for me.
 

tage

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To purge air from p/s system start truck, turn wheels to full lock right or left, turn truck off while steering wheel is at full lock. Let truck sit for 15 min. while off. Start truck, turn steering wheel the opposite direction, turn truck off, let sit 15 min. while truck is sitting you can remove p/s cap and see air bubbles purging to top.
I do it that way, works better on my truck compared to the TM procedure.
I also jack up the front end, but do not wait as long in between full lock. Just enough time to look in the res to confirm it's not sucking air.
 

yellowstonebill

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Thanks for all the info. -6 here today. Glad I installed a block heater. I will try to find leaks and remove the air in my friends shop. Did air in the system damage the pump?
 

Coug

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So I know this is an old thread, but yesterday I replaced my power steering pump (early style serpentine belt type), along with the 2 lower pressure lines going back to the pump.

I can't seem to get the air out of the system.

So my question is how much of the system or lines are under suction? I'm assuming from the fact that it apparently CAN suck air into it that it's not a full pressure system all the way back to the pump.

I've done all of the above mentioned procedures.
Done the turn it back and forth lock to lock 40 times.
Done the run it and crank steering wheel hard to one side then shut off and let it sit until there are no bubbles visible in the pump.
Tried to just run it and let it sit at idle for a while.

After all of that if I run it and crank back and forth a few times it still whines like crazy and has more aeration/bubbles.

Is there something I might be missing here?
 

Coug

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Okay, so got a private message about this, and I'll share the results.
Basically, it really should be a 2 person job. One person to keep it topped off every time a big air bubble comes out and the fluid level drops.
I apparently just wasn't keeping the fluid level high enough.
Last go round I topped it off, cranked it back and forth half a dozen times until I stopped hearing bubbles in the line/pump.
Filled it all the way to overflow, started it and ran. Level stayed good until I turned the wheel, then it dropped quite a bit, so filled to overflow again.
Cranked the wheels back and forth a few more times (front end was in the air still at this point) and just set the cap back on, but not tightened, then put it in 4 lock, backed it off the jackstands, and drove around. Got back, put a drip pan under it, and shut it off, letting it overflow into the drip pan. Will run it one more time tomorrow just to make sure, then will suck some out until it's at the correct level and call it done.

hope this helps the next person that goes through this.
 

sue

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I have seen people put power steering fluid in
And with in minutes steering was hard and
stiff. ATF, dextrin good. power steering fluid
Bad
 

Coug

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I have seen people put power steering fluid in
And with in minutes steering was hard and
stiff. ATF, dextrin good. power steering fluid
Bad
I've been told that while DEXVI is a direct replacement for DEX3, it has a higher failure rate in this application than the DEX3 did.
I ended up using Lucas semi-synthetic ATF, which supposedly works with almost any ATF, and claims to meet or exceed DEX3 specs, as the only stuff I had on hand was DEXVI full synthetic.
But yeah, I didn't put power steering fluid in. Most results I've seen people say it makes no difference, but the power steering fluid costs more for the decent stuff compared to the Lucas.


EDIT: corrected my roman numerals.
 
Last edited:

Thumper580

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Okay, so got a private message about this, and I'll share the results.
Basically, it really should be a 2 person job. One person to keep it topped off every time a big air bubble comes out and the fluid level drops.
I apparently just wasn't keeping the fluid level high enough.
Last go round I topped it off, cranked it back and forth half a dozen times until I stopped hearing bubbles in the line/pump.
Filled it all the way to overflow, started it and ran. Level stayed good until I turned the wheel, then it dropped quite a bit, so filled to overflow again.
Cranked the wheels back and forth a few more times (front end was in the air still at this point) and just set the cap back on, but not tightened, then put it in 4 lock, backed it off the jackstands, and drove around. Got back, put a drip pan under it, and shut it off, letting it overflow into the drip pan. Will run it one more time tomorrow just to make sure, then will suck some out until it's at the correct level and call it done.

hope this helps the next person that goes through this.
Is the truck running when you are doing this? Thanks
 

Coug

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Is the truck running when you are doing this? Thanks
I crank it back and forth a few times with it not running until I stop hearing bubbles coming out of the lines, top it off.
Start the truck let it idle for a minute or two without touching anything else, top it off.
Turn the steering a little bit with it running until the fluid level drops, then top it off.
Crank it back and forth a few times with it running, then top it off.
Finally park it somewhere you can safely catch the overflowing fluid without causing an environmental hazard, and shut down the truck. You'll get a good amount overflowing.
Wait for everything to cool, then use a turkey baster or paper towels or something to drain to the "full cold" mark on the cap.

And when I say top it off, I mean pour in fluid until it overflows.
 

TOBASH

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Let sit overnight after you turn wheel lock to lock a few times. That also lets things settle.
 

Overboard

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Hey know this is an old thread but why not I have a pump (old style) whines like crazy I blead the system exactly per TM and it's good to go not a peep, then a week or two later I'll take it out and we're right back. To whining, is this a pump issue, hydro boost, or something else
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Hey know this is an old thread but why not I have a pump (old style) whines like crazy I blead the system exactly per TM and it's good to go not a peep, then a week or two later I'll take it out and we're right back. To whining, is this a pump issue, hydro boost, or something else
you most likely have a bad o-ring that’s gradually letting air in…take your pick on what component. I would change out the easy to reach o-rings on the high pressure hoses.
 
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