Fording Project

[rustystud]

That's sort of funny, rustystud, that while you're working on the problem of fording deep water, you get deepwater down at the well house.

I mean, it's funny way over HERE. You're not doing any laughing, I know.

People, perhaps we're just naturally cruel. Or maybe it's just ME.

(I hope everything cleans up okay).


View attachment 605218

I didn't even think about that. Now that you mention it, it is kinda funny !

 

[rustystud]

Rusty the air switch on the Deuces dumps excess air and the safety type air switch for the drop axles dumps excess air when off. You better get us some pic on the Fording when you do it.

Will do.

 

[rustystud]

Maybe these might help:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Air-Pn...-Air-Valves/3-WAY-MANUAL-AIR-VALVE-4-1814.axd

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...-STEEL-5880-PSI-3-WAY-BALL-VALVE-9-8595-4.axd
This site has a lot of stuff including 24 vdc stuff like linear actuators, regular and gear motors, etc.

I wonder how that manual control valve is actuated ? Cable or rod ?

 

[rustystud]

I'll try and adapt up this tank from a M105 trailer for my "ping" tank for the slubber tube. The main hose will go into the side shown here with the 1" pipe and the two side holes will allow the air to escape or be drawn into the air-filter. Then the bottom hole will be fitted with a drain valve to get rid of the excess oil and crud.
I plan to mount it on the frame.

 

[rustystud]

Here's one of the two fans I bought for the radiator. I'll install them later this summer. Right now I'll just get the gauge assembly and valves installed, then I can put my dash back in.

 

[daytonatrbo]

A 5/3 or 5/2 toggle valve with one of the outputs plugged should do what you need. Without anything electric.

http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/nitradirectionmanualvalves.pdf

 

[Jakelc15]

Looking good. Keep that camera handy when testing. Don't forget your brake reservoir and air compressor if your going deep.

 

[rustystud]

Looking good. Keep that camera handy when testing. Don't forget your brake reservoir and air compressor if your going deep.

I have no plans of ever going deeper then 3ft. In fact I really don't need to replace the fan with electrics but I hope it will increase my HP and also eliminate any chance of a blade coming loose and taking out my radiator. As far as the slobber tube goes, I never liked all that crud dripping on my starter and differential. So with it going into a separate tank mounted on the frame with it's own drain valve I can control the oily mess. And like I always say " you never know" . Someday I may need to cross a 5ft river and I will have the ability to do so.

 

[rustystud]

A 5/3 or 5/2 toggle valve with one of the outputs plugged should do what you need. Without anything electric.

http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/nitradirectionmanualvalves.pdf

Those look nice but expensive. Also with using my electronic valve I also control the radiator fans. So one switch and adjust the regulator and I'm done.
I will be controlling the fans by way of a relay which will be activated by my dash switch.

 

[Another Ahab]

Those look nice but expensive. Also with using my electronic valve I also control the radiator fans. So one switch and adjust the regulator and I'm done.
I will be controlling the fans by way of a relay which will be activated by my dash switch.

The pricing was listed (the second line of the specs); like $16-$22 (!)

That sounds pretty reasonable for the look of their quality (close-fit machined aluminum).

 

[rustystud]

The pricing was listed (the second line of the specs); like $16-$22 (!)

That sounds pretty reasonable for the look of their quality (close-fit machined aluminum).

I didn't see the pricing I only "ass-umed" it ! That is a real great price ! Still I'll stick with the electronics for now, especially since I already bought them !

 

[daytonatrbo]

I didn't see the pricing I only "ass-umed" it ! That is a real great price ! Still I'll stick with the electronics for now, especially since I already bought them !

Most things on automation direct are very budget friendly, and surprisingly good quality.

*i have no affiliation with them, but I use their stuff at work fairly often.


thats also where i get my 24v LED indicator lights for around $5 ea.

 

[daytonatrbo]

I have no plans of ever going deeper then 3ft. In fact I really don't need to replace the fan with electrics but I hope it will increase my HP and also eliminate any chance of a blade coming loose and taking out my radiator. As far as the slobber tube goes, I never liked all that crud dripping on my starter and differential. So with it going into a separate tank mounted on the frame with it's own drain valve I can control the oily mess. And like I always say " you never know" . Someday I may need to cross a 5ft river and I will have the ability to do so.

Im interested to see the performance and durability of those electric fans.

I like the idea of taking that constant drag off the engine, as long as your alternator is making enough juice to keep them turning.

Then again, I like that the deuce is almost "bomb proof" and electrics will only weaken that.

 

[rustystud]

Im interested to see the performance and durability of those electric fans.

I like the idea of taking that constant drag off the engine, as long as your alternator is making enough juice to keep them turning.

Then again, I like that the deuce is almost "bomb proof" and electrics will only weaken that.

Actually around here you don't even need the radiator fan. Only in high summer would it be an issue. I worked at a radiator shop in Phoenix AZ when I was going to trade school and I saw a whole lot of radiators tore apart due to the metal fan breaking a blade off. I always take mine off and check them regularly for rust and any loose rivets. These 24volt fans are NOS military surplus and all plastic, so I know their strong and will not rust. After all, all modern radiator fans are electric and made from plastic and they last the life of the vehicles. Even our bus fans are plastic now, as are modern heavy duty trucks.

 

[rustystud]

Most things on automation direct are very budget friendly, and surprisingly good quality.

*i have no affiliation with them, but I use their stuff at work fairly often.


thats also where i get my 24v LED indicator lights for around $5 ea.

I didn't see the 24 volt lights. Do you have the page number ?

 

[daytonatrbo]

I didn't see the 24 volt lights. Do you have the page number ?

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc.../Plastic_Monoblock_Indicators/LED/ECX2052-24L

http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/plasticindlts.pdf

I have one fly wired to my air buzzer just to see how it does with the backside more or less exposed behind the dash.

 

[daytonatrbo]

Actually around here you don't even need the radiator fan. Only in high summer would it be an issue. I worked at a radiator shop in Phoenix AZ when I was going to trade school and I saw a whole lot of radiators tore apart due to the metal fan breaking a blade off. I always take mine off and check them regularly for rust and any loose rivets. These 24volt fans are NOS military surplus and all plastic, so I know their strong and will not rust. After all, all modern radiator fans are electric and made from plastic and they last the life of the vehicles. Even our bus fans are plastic now, as are modern heavy duty trucks.

Ah, I didn't realize they were surplus. I assume they are good rugged units then. Almost afraid to ask how much they are worth.

 

[Jakelc15]

A long time ago the motorpool was changing the aluminium fans to steel fans on the deuces. The aluminium ones are prone to cracking and breaking when put under water.
Electric is a good mod. They wouldn't even be needed most of the time as long as the water pump is turning. I've had 8.3 Cummins sit and idle for hours with no fan belt and they don't over heat. Saw a 3116 cat run with no water pump belt for a whole winter, never overheated.

 

[Floridianson]

Rusty you thinking about something to cut off the road draft tube or go simple and just hook up long hose and tied high to the cab to ford then lower when done?
The ones I have on my 5 tons just cut it off and you would think that when fording the pressures are building so don't go swimming for long.

 

[daytonatrbo]

Rusty you thinking about something to cut off the road draft tube or go simple and just hook up long hose and tied high to the cab to ford then lower when done?
The ones I have on my 5 tons just cut it off and you would think that when fording the pressures are building so don't go swimming for long.

IIRC, he's routing it back to the air intake.

View attachment 605247

I'll try and adapt up this tank from a M105 trailer for my "ping" tank for the slubber tube. The main hose will go into the side shown here with the 1" pipe and the two side holes will allow the air to escape or be drawn into the air-filter. Then the bottom hole will be fitted with a drain valve to get rid of the excess oil and crud.
I plan to mount it on the frame.