found m35a1 what am I in for

[R0E0D]

OK GUYS I HAVE THE PHOTOGRAPHS! all are uncut hot off my computer
all 253 of em my cam was in burst mode.

m35a1 Photos by redneck2995 | Photobucket

after you see it tell me what you guys think of it. how much is it worth 1500 or over?

 

[stb64]

That is in fact a M35 A1 with the original engine type in it.
The LDS 427-2 engine can be easily identified by the data plate saying Hypercycle instead of Multifuel (but it does run on multi fuels just like all other multifuels), the funnel-shaped oil filler neck, and the turbo / intake air heater setup.
Some other differences from the A2 models are:
The injector pump has no FDC, so power output is lower when burning gas or jet fuel. The 25 amp generator was standard for this truck. Engine starter is operated by a foot pedal. Sprag Type transfer case.
The cargo bed is attached to the frame with U-bolts, front engine support (crossmember) is different, horizontal exhaust system without muffler, early style instrument cluster without tachometer, tachometer mounted on separate bracket, reversible headlight panels, electric horn, metal wiper motors, and some other minor differences. Some of these parts were also used on very early (1965-66) and early (1967-69) A2 deuces.
The LDS 427-2 has a bad reputation, mainly because of head gasket problems. These were caused by the first style head gasket, in combination with not beeing a thick deck engine, and therefore that the heads could not be torqued down like on later 465 series engines, and, most important, bad driving habits.
M35A1´s need a lot of TLC and are more collectors trucks.

 

[stb64]

P.S.: That engine is a late LDS 427-2 with Schwitzer 4D-454C turbo as used 1963-64. the data is cast into the block behind and above the generator

 

[R0E0D]

Ok I hear that the 427 eats head gaskets. Is the late 427-2 redesigned and how much is to much to pay for that truck in that condition? I think scrap prices is 1500 dollars.

 

[SturmTyger380]

I looked at this truck with Red a few weeks ago before he went back and took pictures. The current owner has not had the tuck long and got it from a local law enforcement department. The truck has spent a long time outside. The canvas cab top has rotted off.

I have worked on two M35A3's before for another guy in my club and they both had the same rust issues under the windshield. So much so I had to cut out the bad metal and weld in new triangles.

This M35A1 has the same rust issues under the windshield on both side as well as rust issues on the floor of the cab near the doors.

I know a guy about 10 miles away that has a ready to roll M35A2 for 4.5K

So the question is about the one that Red is looking at. Is it worth trying to talk the guy down due to it being rough? Is it rare enough to put lots more money into?

Or should one walk away and just be happy with a newer truck?

 

[cattlerepairman]

You pretty much nailed the core question. It depends what you want. LDT-465 powered Multifuel M35A2's are plentiful, relatively cheap and if all you are looking for is a running truck to have fun with, it is a good choice.
A LDS-427 powered, relatively unmolested M35A1 is quite rare. It will need some work, the parts are not quite as easily obtained but it has a much higher collector value. It is also not the kind of truck one would want to trash in a mud bog or bob or otherwise modify.
I have no first-hand experience with the 427; it did not hold up well to military abuse, but that does not mean it is a bad engine or will not last when driven with some brains.

 

[stb64]

That is exactly how i see it. I have never had a problem with my 427, but i treat it with respect. Also, the design of the head gasket was changed 3 times after the production of the 427 ended. Mine has the 3rd (vented) type.

 

[R0E0D]

okay is so everyone has seen the condition in the photos. it runs very well but it has no brakes. and I understand about babying a truck that the most it will be driven to work. once a week and brought to local shows. at this point I don't know what the value is if I were to buy it what would be too much to spend for it?

 

[cattlerepairman]

The truck having been used for some law enforcement purpose makes it appear likely that maintenance was up to par; probably better than with a casual private owner. The fact that the head gaskets were done is, IMHO, a good sign. The brakes on these trucks, regardless whether A1 or A2, are single circuit and will always require TLC and thorough going-through. No brakes is literally not an issue that should decide whether or not to buy it. Many people here will tell you that putting a new master, air pack, wheel cylinders and at least flexible lines in is what makes them feel confident about the continued reliable stopping ability of their truck.
My two cents are that if what's wrong with this truck is mostly cosmetic and can be fixed by cutting a few rusty panels out, I'd love to have a 427, just for the sake of being different. How competent are you in fixing things, doing your own maintenance and repairs?
If the 427 has been well maintained and you continue to do that, there is little reason why it would not keep on running for a mighty long time.

 

[Varyag]

If it was running well and looks like it was maintained then it would be an awesome candidate for an OD paint job and white stars. If I had the time and availability I would be all over it. Also, where in Idaho are you? I am about 4 miles west of the border in WA.

 

[R0E0D]

i am going to buy the m35a1 can some one tell me the best way. to give it a bit more speed and drop the RPM. with out doing to much to it. in this day and age i like to do 65 mph with rpm not over 2000 if i can do that. i plan to keep it on the road and out of the mud. can i some how put a eaton 10 speed or a rockwell 10 speed ? i am a truck driver and i float the gears i do not like synchronized transmission.

and thanks for all you guys help

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Welcome to the addiction Red.

I posted up some really great reference material a while back talking about what it takes to make a Deuce safe at 65ish MPH.... Give me a few mins to dig it up. Its mostly in reference to M35a2s, but should be applicable in your a1 also.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Posted originally in this context HERE

Alright. I will spout back what I have read. My truck is stock, so this is only what I have read. When you add that new inspection port to your engine (You know, the one you didnt want) dont start going round saying "Well Loco said I could" I will simply laugh at you.

I know, your excited, but this truck is not ever going to be fast with its current engine. All you can hope for is less slow. Also, the "Modification and Hotrodding" forum is a good place for these questions.

(The post I was replying to)

Hi guys, my buddy and I are going to be working on our m35a2's and we were curious as to what turbocharger can replace the stock one, if the injectors could be honed, intercooler fabed for it, modify the headbolts(ones that will handle higher level of boost) how to turn up the fuel pump. I am curious as to how much boost the stock turbocharger puts out, how much it can handle. How much boost will the stock headbolts can handle. These deuces will be operating on diesel fuel only. I am trying to get a feel for what can be done to increase the power output of these LDT 465 motors. Please give me any information you can, Im a cummins guy, ive never worked on these motors nor do i have much knowledge on the performance of them. Thanks alot!!

Searching inter-cooler will net you DAYS of reading material.

Your questions, with short answers:
what turbocharger can replace the stock one? This has not been covered much. The general opinion I have read is that the stock ones are more than sufficient, but there are gains to be had by adding one with a waist-gate. This can be obtained from some of the LDS engines (5 ton multifuels)

Can the injectors be honed? The way I understand anything can be honed. Oh! you mean can it do any good? It COULD. The stock injectors may be either the single or double port design. You have to remove them to find out. These do not inject a mist, they inject a stream. This results in less power but helps it be less picky with fuels.

intercooler fabed for it? Silly question. You asked if you CAN fab an inter-cooler. I dont know if you can. I know I CAN fabricate up an inter-cooler for a non turbo Chevy if I wanted to, it just wont do any good. For putting one on the Deuce, the intake is heated with engine coolant, so the question of how much good an Inter-cooler will do comes up. Wreckerman just did a thread with some awesome info about this, you should search, "Threads started by Wreckerman" and do some reading.

how to turn up the fuel pump. Wow. I was a noob once, (Kind of still am) and I guess I didn't use the search as much as I should have, but this question is kind of asinine. Im not just being a dick, but when you enter the Deuce forum, its a sticky-ed thread, at the top, first one you see. This the most frequently asked question on the entire forum. "How to turn up the fuel, with pictures!"

Im not trying to be a jerk, Im not, but we have answered this question 1,000,000,000 times.

how much boost the stock turbocharger puts out, how much it can handle. How much boost will the stock headbolts can handle. The most boost I have seen used in my reading was around 25psi.

Alright, here is some of Loco's knowledge. Your thinking of this engine like a Cummins. The cummins is an INCREDIBLE engine. The block and lower end are INSANE, able to handle around 450hp without modification. It was (As I understand) an engine that was used on marine applications with water to air inter-coolers and put 400hp out comfortably. It was de-tuned for the trucks. That makes it great for going butt humping FAST.

The LDT is not a cummins. It will never be a cummins. If you treat it like one, your going to snap a rod, or if you avoid that then the block will actually come apart near cyl #6. Your best bet if you want Cummins performance? Put a cummins in it. Fits well, and is an awesome improvement.

Now, what other members have done to get some power from these engines. You start with a pyro and boost gauge. Next, we bump the fuel up till the EGTs reach about 1100. Not fast enough? Then time to add a water injection system. The good news now? Your faster, and still multi-fuel!

Your still going to top out at 56mph, so lets throw some 395 series tires on it, (46 inch tall) and/or an overdrive kit. Either of these options will cost approximately $1500.

You are still unhappy with your performance, you want more. You could now loose one of your rear axles, and shorten the bed. You are now 3000lbs lighter, and much peppier. You can try to add a thicker head gasket, or whatever blah blah blah, or just send your LDT to me and buy a cummins for it. Now, your FAST.

I would be NEGLIGENT to not post some stuff about this out dated braking system, so allow me to quote what I told another gentlemen yesterday.

tire size = mph?

I have experienced brake failure on my own Deuce, and THANK GOD I was in a parking lot. Still terrifying.

Im not however saying you should not do as your considering. An overdrive kit and 395s sounds like 1/2 of a GREAT plan, and should put you right around that 65mph/2200rpm sweet point you want. I suggest that you try with just the tires or just the OD kit first, and see if you think you will find the other to be necessary or if 62mph feels good enough to you.

Now lets look at 2/2 of this plan. First step I would suggest is for ever $10 you put towards speed, you put AT LEAST $5 towards stopping. There are a few dirrection to go on this. You can upgrade to 6 wheel disk brakes, which is a big and awesome job. Bit pricey, and involves getting calipers off an F450 or something. OR build a second (Backup) braking system. This could be in the nature of an exhaust brake, or some kind of pinion brake.

Keep in mind, you are taking the lives of everyone else on the freeway into your hands. That is no reason to not do it, and not enjoy your own truck though. We all just want our hobbies protected. We can best to do that by taking care of our members and everyone on the streets around our members.

The main point they want to get across is that you need to check your brake fluid daily, and twice a year remove all six brake drums, thoroughly inspecting any rubber component. When they fail, the entire world seems to speed up, and life gets scary.

I aint done the math, but loading a deuce with 10,000lbs of payload (its surface street load rating) would put a lot more strain on the brakes (I would think) than than tires that are a bit taller and 10 additional MPH.

Sidebar for all you Nay-sayers. Yes, this MAY increase the load on his brakes, but didnt we have a member on here DIE on the freeway because the rest of the traffic didnt realize he was doing 50? Thats not a "it could happen" that DID happen. Its dangerous to do 45-50 on public freeways also.

 

[R0E0D]

i know all about brake failure. i had 41k in the box (41000 LBS in the trailer ) and the metal trailer service line under the trailer failed. so all i had was 6 drums and the wimpy jake holding back 41k. i burned em up at the end of the mountain to make that turn at the bottom. lots of smoke and some flames i did not stop as if i did the truck will go up be for i can bailout. times like that you wish you had a in cab 5th wheel jaw release. right now it has no brakes and i rather have stoping power than go power. so i will overhaul the brakes be for i drive it any ware.

 

[Scarecrow1]

Welcome to the site . I hope you don't judge us to harshly (Some) of us do tend to be a little hard on new people . From what you described about the truck you couldn't give it to me. If it has sat that long to the point of what you indicated I would pass . You will have far more money and time in it than if you just bought one in descent shape. You being new to these trucks it wouldn't be impossible just very very hard . Look in the classified and that should give you a guild to go by . Good luck to you ........

 

[m-35tom]

wrong truck for you. it will never go over 50. turning up the fuel will simply kill the engine. sprag transfer case worthless. by the time you have a good truck you will have $5 or more in it.

 

[R0E0D]

thanks mike but now i have found out how rare it is. i want it i am the kind of guy that like to have something that is rare and few have. it will not be that hard for me as some. i am vary good with very good with mechanics. you are right it will take me a long time but. once it is done it well worth it the truck is very simple to me the hard part will be parts. i know how diesel works i know the drive line. the m35 is not far from 18 wheels there will be some things that i will need learn. a good m35a2 is nice how ever i like the idea of bringing this one back. after this i will be looking for a good runing 5 ton wrecker to go get more trucks with.

 

[R0E0D]

wrong truck for you. it will never go over 50. turning up the fuel will simply kill the engine. sprag transfer case worthless. by the time you have a good truck you will have $5 or more in it.

that sprag transfer case i here a lot about it but i do not know a lot of it. i am working on that how ever i do not recall the part but. i think i can swap it for one of those air shift transfer case so i think. as for fuel i know that you must keep the right fuel air mix to burn. i was thinking of gears for speed but more so to keep the rpm down for cruse. but if i can not get speed i will not go for it but keep the truck as it

 

[hndrsonj]

I would take a 427 deuce in a heartbeat. They are incredably rare.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

that sprag transfer case i here a lot about it but i do not know a lot of it. i am working on that how ever i do not recall the part but. i think i can swap it for one of those air shift transfer case so i think. as for fuel i know that you must keep the right fuel air mix to burn. i was thinking of gears for speed but more so to keep the rpm down for cruse. but if i can not get speed i will not go for it but keep the truck as it

As I said, the best option is to replace the 5th gear with one of a taller ratio, (Last I saw they were about $1500) and you should consider lockouts for the center axle. The cooler way to get lower cruising RPM is with a set of super singles, such as the 395s.