Front axle boots and seals

[Z71]

I am getting ready to replace my front axle boots with new zippered ones because the old ones have cracked. I find that strange because I replaced them about 4 years ago and did not drive the truck much at all since then. Anyway, does anybody else have this same issue of these zippered boots not lasting very long? They seemed soft and pliable when I installed them four years ago and now seem to be dry rotting. The cracks are definitely not from flexing fatigue, as the rubber feels dry and brittle in the cracked areas.


I probably need to replace the axle seals as well. Do I need to remove the brake drum, bearings, and disassemble the knuckle to get to the seals? What special tools are required?

 

[rchalmers3]

I recommend using Google to search this forum for your questions about steering boots and about front axle seals. These issues are covered about twice a month and you may find the search for information interesting and informative.

Welcome to the site and cheers

Rick

 

[mikey]

awesome write up from banshee365

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/8460-front-axle-seals-boots-stepxstep.html

 

[Z71]

awesome write up from banshee365

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/8460-front-axle-seals-boots-stepxstep.html

Thanks, I actually found that thread and read it before posting this thread, but he was using one piece knuckle boots, so knuckle disassembly was a must. I am not sure if I need to disassemble the knuckles just to replace the axle seals, that's what I was asking.

 

[mikey]

Thanks, I actually found that thread and read it before posting this thread, but he was using one piece knuckle boots, so knuckle disassembly was a must. I am not sure if I need to disassemble the knuckles just to replace the axle seals, that's what I was asking.

There should be posts towards the end of that thread from Paulfarber about the zipper boots. If I'm mistaken, I know he described the process in another thread, so shoot him a PM.

 

[m16ty]

Yes, you have to at least pull the axle to replace the seals.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Most of the rubber boots I have seen/used are junk. I am going to give the silly-cone ones a try next.

 

[mcmullag]

gentle readers, it is with concern that we come before you today.....

It appears his question is/was... has anyone else experienced their zippered boots dry-rotting or cracking in a short time.... I just put a zippered boot on my right front. I just ordered the boots and seals from Memphis Equipment on the phone and did not realize I was getting zippered boots. Should I too be saving up for doing the job again in four years but this time with solid, silicone boots ?
g-dawg mulligan

 

[clinto]

It appears his question is/was... has anyone else experienced their zippered boots dry-rotting or cracking in a short time....

All of these topics have been covered in depth, multiple times.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/9728-2-month-old-split-axle-boots.html

That's probably the definitive thread about split axle boots.

 

[paulfarber]

I think a lot of 'dry rot' is really installation error.

Dry Rot does not cause a clean rip... but a ragged edge. Someone showed a pic of 'dry rot' that went vertically, across a 'pleat'. I'm thinking that was more of a cut from the install. Could be wrong... but the pic didn't show much rot.

Biggest tip on the zippered boot: CLEAN THE GREASE OFF THE CHANNELS!!! You are relying on friction and tension to hold the bot on while you fiddle with the band... a nice clean surface does that for you.

 

[clinto]

I think a lot of 'dry rot' is really installation error.

Dry Rot does not cause a clean rip... but a ragged edge. Someone showed a pic of 'dry rot' that went vertically, across a 'pleat'. I'm thinking that was more of a cut from the install. Could be wrong... but the pic didn't show much rot.

Biggest tip on the zippered boot: CLEAN THE GREASE OFF THE CHANNELS!!! You are relying on friction and tension to hold the bot on while you fiddle with the band... a nice clean surface does that for you.

They're just sh*t. No nice way to say it.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/93146-post29.html


Any of that look like installation error?


The current condition of available boots on the M44 market is a direct result of this Country's obsession with making nothing but junk, just so that everyone can buy $7 toasters and the producers can get as filthy rich as possible.

 

[gringeltaube]

I think a lot of 'dry rot' is really installation error.
........

REALLY???? That's interesting!
Please explain your trick to avoid dry-rot on the outside and swelling/ripping apart from grease/oil contact on the inner side; for both, the zippered AND the 1-pc boots....!?

G.

 

[2027Deuce]

 

[paulfarber]

How can dry rot occur so quickly after install? The amount of handling to get the boot over the knuckle and secured with clamps is non-trivial... if the rot is there pre-install then it would rip during install.

Dry rot would not happen so quickly after install... it takes a while to eat through all that material.

Dry rot is usually visually easy to spot in many materials. Its a cracking/scale like appearance.

Dry rot does not produce a clean rip or tear... but a 'blotchy' ragged tear/hole and I cannot see how it would happen across a pleat in a boot.

And just so it doesn't come up later in an attempted 'gotcha moment' rubber DOESN'T DRY ROT!!!!!! It deteriorates due to ozone, UV and lots of other reasons that a boot normally never sees (not a lot of sunlight hitting the boot and while pollution is a major ozone producer it would affect all rubber parts... it doesn't know to attack the rubber boots first, then the tires.

So yeah.... I think most of these ripped boots are damaged during install.

If you have a torn boot post a pic so we can look at it.... I replaced one boot (zippered) and its held up much longer than many of these solid boots that rot off the axles days after install.

 

[stumps]

My poor head's a spinning here:

How can dry rot occur so quickly after install? The amount of handling to get the boot over the knuckle and secured with clamps is non-trivial... if the rot is there pre-install then it would rip during install.

Dry rot would not happen so quickly after install... it takes a while to eat through all that material.

and a little further down the page:

If you have a torn boot post a pic so we can look at it.... I replaced one boot (zippered) and its held up much longer than many of these solid boots that rot off the axles days after install.

Which is it, dry rot doesn't occur quickly, or it only occurs quickly when it is a boot style that you didn't use?

-Chuck

 

[Westech]

I have been around MV's for a couple weeks now and from what I have seen the "chines" rubber does not last. I had two window seals sealed in the bag, no rips or holes that I got back in 2004. A Newstar dealer was at my home last month when I went to install them and they fell apart in my hands when I took them out of the sealed bag. The older stuff is CRAP! He took some 2011 made seals out of his truck and I bought them. The new, Newstar rubber is good stuff. But its going to take a LONG time to burn up all that junk. Same with the zipper boots. From what I was told Newstar has changed where they have the rubber parts made and there is a switch to have it made in the USA. It is a change that is going to take some time but its getting better.
Dont tell me I took the seals out of the bag wrong, or I installed the ****ty zipper boots wrong. I am darn sure I have done more wrenching on MV's and Civy autos then most here. A real tech can tell what is crap and what is not.

 

[Wildchild467]

my zipper boots are cracked and leaking grease out less than a year after install. i plan on doing the silicone ones also next time around... also replacing the seals too just because im in there. all that is leaking out is grease, not oil.... so im not in a hurry to fix it... although it would look a lot better if i did get it cleaned up and new boots on.

 

[mikew]

I installed a zipper boot about a month ago, following the steps in the TM....

It ripped two weeks later.

I'd only run the truck on the highway, so it wasn't snagged on anything. It looks like the rip was caused by turning the wheel to the right full lock position. The boot came apart where the "tension" is greatest with the wheels in that position.

First pic is with the wheel straight second is with it turned to the right.

The rubber of the boot looks and feels fresh, and there's no "installation error".

I've not confirmed what joint is in my knuckle, but is was filled with "corn head" grease so I refilled with gear oil. Maybe new boots aren't oil resistant (that would be bad).

Unfortunately the old one-piece boot I cut off was in better shape than my "new" one!

 

[Wildchild467]

your knuckle should not have gear oil or corn head oil in it, it should be grease (as in chassis grease).

 

[mikew]

I was surprised when the grease came pouring out of as I pulled the lower guard/king pin bolts.

It is grease, not GL-1.

I didn't have my borescope handy to look inside the knuckle housing to see if maybe I have the old ball style joints instead of the u-joint axle.

I've heard a lot of conflicting info regarding the lube for the ball style axles and haven't yet found an old TM the covers them. But step one is to see what joint I have in the first place.

Edit:

I just shoved my borescope in the lube fill hole on the knuckle and I have u-joints! So, I don't need lube in there just axle grease to keep it all from rusting (it looks brand new at the moment).

I guess shoving grease in there will be easy, when I put another new boot on......