Front axle seals and boots stepXstep

[panshark]

if you have that much oil flowing, you might want to check your front axle to make sure you have lube in there before driving the truck

 

[jedawson1]

What would you estimate the total time it took to replace both front axel seals?

 

[m816]

Barney, the five tons are the same. there is a plug on both sides of the steering knuckle that you remove while pumpiing in the grease, when you reassemble it. the excess grease comes out the other side and you know you have it filled with grease. out side of that the process is almost the same except the inner seal is in even tighter and very difficult to remove. the best way is to drive it through from the other side. I also leave the tie rod attached to the knuckle. It is heavier but it still come off with out removing it . the tie rods should be removed using a Tie rod removal tool or a" tuning fork". Do not beat on the nuts, ever. Use some heat on the tie rod end and then insert the tool and a couple wacks will remove it quickly.

 

[shadowrwolf]

well have one side 90% done and asembled. drivers side is having issues, cant get the top king pin bushing out.

 

[DatGuyC]

Hit it on the side with a big hammer to pop the little cone bushings out, I had the same problem the first time I did mine.

 

[shadowrwolf]

Hit it on the side with a big hammer to pop the little cone bushings out, I had the same problem the first time I did mine.

i was whacking it with my big rubber hammer with no luck also was trying to pry it up, the other ones came up fast because you could whack them side wase, this one is a pane with the bolts keeping it anchored down

 

[yolner]

i was whacking it with my big rubber hammer with no luck also was trying to pry it up, the other ones came up fast because you could whack them side wase, this one is a pane with the bolts keeping it anchored down

A rubber hammer isn't going to do it. You need something big and heavy. There are cone washers around each of the studs that are probably seized in there pretty well. I had to bash mine with a drilling hammer to break them loose.

 

[jsthnt@gmail.com]

I just finished changing General Granite's boots.
And I was having trouble getting the large clamp on as it seems that so many have.
Then I remembered that I had several of the small wood working bar clamps.
As I got the boot in placed I put a clamp on to hold it. 4 clamps worked great and had it on in under 5 minutes.

 

[Hainebd]

Don't hit the threads. Smack the side of the arm with a heavier hammer on opposite side. I leave the nut on loosely protecting the threads in case I miss.

 

[bigginstactical]

thanks guys! lots of good info. I will be doing mine as soon as i have the truck all prepped and painted that way if sand gets in there i can clean it all out.

 

[JimmyThompson]

VERY good write up, comments, and read. Thank you all!

 

[Ford Mechanic]

opcorn:

 

[GFB]

Keep this up top. It was handy when doing my boots a few weeks ago.

 

[AMMO 23]

Excellent!!! I have to do this soon and I'm sure this will help.

Thanks

 

[brianp454]

This is a wonderful thread, thanks everyone that provided info, ideas, support, etc!

I’m going through the entire brake system, seal replacement, etc. on my truck. The rears are largely done and I’m working on the front now. Similar to many other findings by folks here, my truck was in terrible shape with leaking seals, frozen or leaking wheel cylinders, etc. The thing was a rolling deathtrap! If it hasn’t been done in 10 years or so, the truck should get a thorough checkout to stay road worthy. I even pulled the front u-joints apart because the “grease” was so diluted with brake fluid, water, and gear oil. I goofed one of the snap rings and went shopping for a replacement. The OD is 1 9/16, yet the new internal snap ring that size is shiner than the original. If I go up to 1 5/8 it seems to be the proper size if I compress it with snap ring pliers. I think I will go with the 1 5/8 size. Do any of you have a way of confirming this?

If any of you goof the tie rod castle nut it is 1 5/16 flat to flat with 7/8-14 internal threads. I got replacements at the local industrial supply and HW store (Tacoma Screw).

I also have some severe wear on the plates under the lower king pins. The bushings are fine but the plates have 30-45 thousanths of an inch grooves dug in them. Maybe that is why was so hard to turn the wheel? Ha! I found TM 9-2320-209-34-2-1 page 10-21 refers to them as "plates." Do any of you know where I can find a pair on the quick? I'd like to re-assemble Sunday...

 

[muthkw25]

Thank you for this thread. This will help alot!!

 

[jsthnt@gmail.com]

This is a wonderful thread, thanks everyone that provided info, ideas, support, etc!

I’m going through the entire brake system, seal replacement, etc. on my truck. The rears are largely done and I’m working on the front now. Similar to many other findings by folks here, my truck was in terrible shape with leaking seals, frozen or leaking wheel cylinders, etc. The thing was a rolling deathtrap! If it hasn’t been done in 10 years or so, the truck should get a thorough checkout to stay road worthy. I even pulled the front u-joints apart because the “grease” was so diluted with brake fluid, water, and gear oil. I goofed one of the snap rings and went shopping for a replacement. The OD is 1 9/16, yet the new internal snap ring that size is shiner than the original. If I go up to 1 5/8 it seems to be the proper size if I compress it with snap ring pliers. I think I will go with the 1 5/8 size. Do any of you have a way of confirming this?

If any of you goof the tie rod castle nut it is 1 5/16 flat to flat with 7/8-14 internal threads. I got replacements at the local industrial supply and HW store (Tacoma Screw).

I also have some severe wear on the plates under the lower king pins. The bushings are fine but the plates have 30-45 thousanths of an inch grooves dug in them. Maybe that is why was so hard to turn the wheel? Ha! I found TM 9-2320-209-34-2-1 page 10-21 refers to them as "plates." Do any of you know where I can find a pair on the quick? I'd like to re-assemble Sunday...

I do not know where to get the plates but after i did mine one of the bolts that hold the plate on fell out. Anyone know what the bolt is. I can not find a replacement locally.

 

[gringeltaube]

Anyone know what the bolt is...

It takes a Grade-8 bolt with a 7/8" x 15/32" head size; 9/16"-12tpi; L = 1-3/8"; 1" threaded area.

First clean that hole and make sure you don't have the threads stripped in the knuckle (it can happen!) Then I would ask around here a bit, since you won't find this size in any commercial hardware store. This is certainly not a popular size.

I recommend using some kind of thread-sealing compound, to install.


G.

 

[jsthnt@gmail.com]

Thanks I will see if I can order one

 

[Banshee365]

Glad to see this thread is still going! I'm needing to replace the in-tank fuel pump, windshields and wheel cylinders to get the deuce in this thread back on the road. Looking forward to it. Work hasn't allowed me to play as much with it time wise but I'm starting a new job in June so hopefully things will let up some.