Front axle seals and boots stepXstep

[welldigger]

I may have found a source for the washers: Redbarncustoms.net.
I'm going to hopefully call them tomorrow.

I can't seem to find the knuckle to spindle gaskets now either. I'm going to ask red barn when I call. Otherwise, I may just end up using RTV.

There isn't really a gasket for the knuckle to spindle I have seen. I just use rtv. Works fine.

 

[Yarz]

Alright, good to know, thanks! I just assumed there was a gasket, since I took gaskets out of there.

 

[Valence]

There isn't really a gasket for the knuckle to spindle I have seen. I just use rtv. Works fine.

I used RTV as well.

For as much as I feel like I live "too close" to other people, living two blocks from a common auto-parts store is pretty sweet.

 

[welldigger]

Alright, good to know, thanks! I just assumed there was a gasket, since I took gaskets out of there.

There may very well be a gasket for that location. I just haven't seen one for sale. Rtv works fine though.

 

[rustystud]

There may very well be a gasket for that location. I just haven't seen one for sale. Rtv works fine though.

Go to NAPA (or Summit Racing) and buy some bulk gasket material. Make your own gaskets. Using an "Exacto" knife and "hole punches" and a small "ball-peen" hammer you can make really intricate gaskets with just a little time.

 

[cattlerepairman]

In the process of doing this job right now.

- no need to remove brakes (as already mentioned). Zip off the 12 nuts holding the backing plate and ring to the knuckle, carefully remove the whole brake assembly and hang it out of the way without stretching the brake hose

- steering arm: after removing the 4 nuts take a 4lb mallet and whack the steering arm side facing to the front of the truck and the side facing to the rear of the truck, near the foremost studs, hard. After three or so whacks, the cone washers let go and the steering arm comes loose; it can be removed by hand. This is by far the superior method to get the steering arm off the king pin bushing plate.

- ball joint/tie rod: don't touch, leave in place. Knuckle comes off with tie rod attached

- inner seal retainer: I found after two hours of frustration that a 3 arm puller with a 4lb soft steel wood splitting wedge across the axle opening for the puller rod to push against worked well. Soldier A had used a generous amount of RTV to glue the seal carrier in place and the slide hammer did not budge it. I whacked the slide hammer until my arm cramped and the attachment broke. With the puller it took under five minutes, once I had figured out which item to place across the axle opening. If you disassemble both sides, you can use a 6ft length of rebar (use the least rusty, crappy one...they also come coated...) from the other side.

- inner axle seal: The upgraded seal (tube seal) from www.rockwelloffroad.com is far superior to the stock design. It comes all set in a new retainer

- knuckle boots: The boots from www.rockwelloffroad.com are tear-resistant and have a slightly increased inner diameter for easier mounting.

(I am not associated with the business but resarched replacement parts and I liked theirs the best)

Before you pack the knuckle with grease (if you so choose) and put the spindle on, it is a good time to grease the king pin zerks and see how the knuckle lifts and centers when you do that (plus, you verify that the grease actually makes it through). After all is assembled, grease the other zerks within reach (pitman arm, spring ends, tie rod ball joint)

 

[59apache]

I've worked myself through this great thread, compressed it into a PDF. (i know that has been done before )
I've added the IMHO most helpfull comments.
Thank you Banshee365 - Kelly for this great write up and all others for their own experiences.
I hope it works and i didn't messed something up

Greetings Juergen

 

[Nomad1]

I need to go through whole post but I saw something about not having to disassemble else were on the internet so thanks for bringing that up. I skip a head to see the latest info as I'm a bit tired but need to go back tomorrow to look at the rest

In the process of doing this job right now.

 

[77 AMG]

Thanks for dragging this up from the older files, gang. I just need to get busy on my truck, now... stupid rain...

 

[frank8003]

a Big Fat Attaboy is in order
So it is here


It is just one great piece of work posting this.
ThankYou

 

[Nomad1]

One thing that I couldn't seem to find was the torque specification for the 8 bolts that hold the steering to the kingpin(4 top & 4 bottom) maybe I wasn't looking in the right TM or the right spot? So if someone could direct me to where that specification is in the TMs or else ware I would appreciate thanks.

 

[brianp454]

If memory serves, I rolled with the generic spec for grade 8 from the one-pager for bolt torque specs close to the beginning of the TM

One thing that I couldn't seem to find was the torque specification for the 8 bolts that hold the steering to the kingpin(4 top & 4 bottom) maybe I wasn't looking in the right TM or the right spot? So if someone could direct me to where that specification is in the TMs or else ware I would appreciate thanks.

 

[Nomad1]

If memory serves, I rolled with the generic spec for grade 8 from the one-pager for bolt torque specs close to the beginning of the TM

Thanks I found the generic spec toward the end of the Tm (page D 2)I forgot they have that page in there. It does tell you toward the beginning of the Tm where that page is so you did get me there so thanks very much

 

[gringeltaube]

One thing that I couldn't seem to find was the torque specification for the 8 bolts that hold the steering to the kingpin(4 top & 4 bottom) maybe I wasn't looking in the right TM or the right spot? So if someone could direct me to where that specification is in the TMs or else ware I would appreciate thanks.

FYI (and for future searchers)... TM 9-2320-361-34, page 10-38: 116-149 lb-ft

 

[59apache]

FYI https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116093-M35A2-Deuce-Torque-Spec-Cheat-Sheet
also helpfull to find the right TM

 

[Floridianson]

A far a the spindle to knuckle agree I just use RTV if you like. As far as the tie rod coming off I just take off one side knuckle with tie rod left on. Then support the knuckle / tie rod to keep it close to level and then remove the other side knuckle / tie rod together. I have tied it up to the spring pack sometimes or if I have a five gallon bucket I just rest the first side knuckle / tie rod on it to keep it level and then do the other side. Then I just lay the whole assembly on the ground so I don't knock it off the bucket.

 

[DHennon]

Great job with this very messy task. I did all 4 of the rears first. Made the fronts a little easier I think. Been there, done that. Wish I had your pics when I did it. I know how much work you went through to do this! Thanks again for the great tutorial!

DHennon

 

[jimm1009]

Hello fellow owners, I have a need for clarification on a torque related to this area.
M35A2; TM9-2329-209-20-3-2, page 14-53, Rear Axles Bearing Nut(s) installation process. Turn inner nut until the wheel binds slightly and tighten back off 1/8 turn. Install outer nut and torque to 50 ft. lbs. Here is where the water gets muddy; Front axle, same nut part number and same thread, etc. and same TM but page 14-9; Turn inner nut until the wheel binds slightly and then back off 1/8 turn. Torque outer nut 100 to 150 ft. lbs.
More mud; Same truck, same axles, same everything but TM 9-2320-361-20. TM cover states that this replaces 9-2320-209-34-1, 34-2-1, 34-2-2, & 34-2-3. In 361-20, the procedure is torque inner nut to 50 ft. lbs. It does not say while rotate the wheel that is a very important step while torqueing. Inner nut is torqued and then backed off 1/16 to 1/4 turn. Install washer and then outer nut. Torque outer nut 100 to 200 ft. lbs. Per page 9-10 or 9-11 the procedure is the same for front and rear axles for both nuts.
Let me say that this is a lot of torque (100 to 200) and since the 1950's the torque was only 50 ft. lbs. on the rear and 100 ft. lbs. on the front. I never understood the difference in front to rear but it was always there are far as I know clear back into the very early 1980's.
Long story short, what is the consensus on the torques. I think that splitting the difference and making both front and rear axle outer nuts to be about 80 ft. lbs. is a great way to be in-between for a better average. In aviation maintenance which this is not, aircraft wheels are always torqued while rotating to make sure the bearings are seated and also to work out the excess grease prior to final lockdown of the nuts.
While I am in there I am replacing the brake shoes and wheel cylinders plus installing new bearings and seals.
My truck was driven through nasty stuff by the first civy owner and not serviced afterwards so many of the bearings are showing fatigue.
jimm1009 (Jim)

 

[Floridianson]

What I remember some were having trouble when seating the bearings with 100 / 150 foot pounds pre load. The outer grease seal was breaking the tab off. So going 75 or less spinning the wheel / hub we seat the bearings. Back off from that and go up to 50 foot pounds then back off that 1/8 - 1/4 turn free play. Then outer nut to specs. 100 Foot pounds is not that much or even 200 foot pounds jam nut. If you do not have a good torque wrench go German which is good in tight is what I did on some.

 

[Tow4]

What I remember some were having trouble when seating the bearings with 100 / 150 psi. The outer grease seal was breaking the tab off. So going 75 or a little less spinning the wheel / hub we seat the bearings. Back off from that and go to 50 psi then 1/8 - 1/4 turn free play back off. Then outer nut to specs. 100 psi is not that much or even 200 psi jam nut. If you do not have a good torque wrench go German which is good in tight is what I do.

Maybe you mean "lbs" instead of "psi"?