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Front Battery being overcharged

drhymer4

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Ohio
The front battery on my 1010 is being overcharged and thus swelling.
Truck still has 24 volt system with the sure power duvac and the 2 alternators.

Any ideas on what is causing the front battery to be getting 17 volts?

Truck starts fine whether the motor is warm or cold.

Thanks,
 

drhymer4

New member
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Ohio
I called sure power to find a replacement for my my model 12270-A.
That part is obsolete and the replacement part is 12280-f.
I'm having problems locating it, as I think it's about obsolete.

I have replaced the top alternator with a brand new one as the old one was bad. I'm starting to wonder if the bottom altinator is bad.

Thanks,
 
270
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Location
akron, ohio
Here's the easy fix to the M1010 charging issues... disconnect all wires from the DUVAC box and tape them up, and remove the box. Replace the top alternator with a 12v alternator of the same mounting dimensions (there is a Leece Neville 12v alt available that is identical to the orig 24v alt, but there are also other brands that will fit for cheaper). Wire the new 12v alt HOT (+) directly to the front battery. If you're bottom alt is working than you will have a working 24v system with reliable 12v power at the front battery. I did this mod months ago, but it turned out my bottom alt was bad. I swapped the bottom alt last weekend when I was replacing the fuel pump (LP), and now I have a fully functioning charging system with reliable 12v and 24v power sources. It's so nice and reassuring to see the volt gauge in the upper part of the green finally!
 
270
5
0
Location
akron, ohio
drhymer, I just noticed that you are also in Ohio. If you're close to the Akron area you are more than welcome to check out how my truck is set up, or if you need help working on yours I'd be happy to lend a hand.
 

drhymer4

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Ssscyco,
Thanks but I'm about 30 miles south east of Columbus.

Doing your method, it would still start fine, correct?
I'm going to check the bottom alternator today.

Thanks,
 
270
5
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Location
akron, ohio
Yes, it starts just as it should every time. In fact, after setting it up this way, and swapping the bottom alt for the working one, I would be willing to do a long road trip without worry. I've had this truck since 2010, and for the first time I no longer need to carry a battery charger everywhere I go, which is a great relief.
 

drhymer4

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Location
Ohio
So to sum it up....... put 24 volt alternator on bottom, 12 alternator up top and disconnect duvac.

As of right now I know my top alternator is good not sure of bottom alternator. Both batteries are good and new.
 
270
5
0
Location
akron, ohio
Yep. The DUVAC only regulates the top alt. The bottom alt isn't wired to it at all, so you don't have to alter any wiring to it (other than swapping alts if your current bottom alt is bad). Since my truck is used for camping i planned on taking out the ac and rear heater (due to being 24v) and converting the whole truck to 12v. Now I can still use those and have a reliable 12v source for other equipment and accessories. Eventually I'll hook up a battery bank and inverter/converter setup in the back and charge through the 12v alt/solar/generator/shore power like a standard RV setup.
 
270
5
0
Location
akron, ohio
Are you sure that your truck started out as an M1010? It was originally an ambulance that's been converted to the pickup in the pic, right? If it wasn't originally an ambulance than everything I told you no longer applies. The M1010 ambulance has a totally different charging system compared to the other CUCV models.
 

Recovry4x4

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When chevyc60 did the charging system on my 1010, he swapped both alts for 12V Leece Nevilles. These alts are very common on road trucks and have wide availibity. Since both are isolated ground alts the work in eithe place. Had my M1010 almost a year and it just took the trip to the GA Rally. Charging problems are never an issue.
 

drhymer4

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Thanks and yes previous owner said it was a 1010 and he put a bed on it along with a back wall.
Door tag says 1010.

My Dad put a 6" lift on it for me.
 
270
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0
Location
akron, ohio
Ok, just wanted to make sure. I'd have hated to see you tear your truck apart only to find that the info I gave you wouldn't work on your truck.
Recovry, since you are running two 12v alts is the truck completely converted to 12v? Or do you still have the 24v starter/glow plugs and the 24v heater/ac in the back? I wondered if you could run two 12v but still have 24v capabilities, but I don't have the extra cash to spend on another 12v alt only to find out it won't work.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Everything on my truck functions as it did when original. All 24V items are intact and functional with the exception of the GP resistor which does function but was bypassed for glowplug life. Roy's system is so basic, it's almost laughable but it's dead on dependable. You simply have 2 isolated ground alternators, each charging it's own respective battery. The batteries, wired in series, provide the 24V to the firewall buss for starting and GP operation (currently bypassed). The factory volt gauge works as well. Here's the thread that sparked the current system in my truck. Many many thanks go to Mark and Roy for getting me one of the finest M1010 Ambulances known.
 

drhymer4

New member
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Location
Ohio
Bottom alternator checks out fine. So I will be putting it back in. Now I guess I'll take out my brand new top alternator and replace it with a new 12 volt alternator and do away with the sure power duvac box.

I guess I'll have a spare 24 volt alternator laying around. ....
 
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