Front end rebuild

[HelluvaEngineer]

My M1009 front end is getting dangerously bad, quickly. I went around a big turn yesterday nearly went off the road. I had to dial in a lot more steering and then the wheel was off-center for a while until things settled down. It felt like it was dog legging for a bit.

Rather than debug individual components, I'm considering replacing all the steering components. I spent some time looking up parts last night and it looks like there is a wide range of prices, from what I assume is cheap Chinese junk to what pricy, probably slightly better, Chinese stuff. I was hoping MOOG sells an entire kit, but unfortunately it looks like they only have them for other trucks.

A couple of questions:

1. Does anyone have a suggestion on certain brands for the components? Does anyone sell a complete kit?
2. I believe my date of mfr. was 1984. Do all parts match a 1984 K5 Blazer?
3. What size castle nut socket do I need?
4. Any tips or tricks? I'm going to have to do this in my driveway. Warn me if that's a terrible idea and I should try to find a front-end shop.

Thanks for the help.

 

[GopherHill]

I've always tried to use Moog. I've used TRW and Delco products with good results. Your truck is older and complete kits are probably not packaged. I go to the local independent parts house and ask them to fix me up.
Best of luck to you, a worthwhile endeavor.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

Looks like the correct socket is a 4 pin, based on a reply I received on YouTube. This one was recommended. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1269-Wheel-Drive/dp/B0002KNZV4

 

[adf5565]

So far I’ve had good luck with Moog. But I’m sure any reputable brand is fine. I definitely agree with changing everything at once, I’ve done that on my m1008 as well as other vehicles and then typically you never have to worry again. I’d suggest going to rock auto at least to see what parts/brands are available, it’s easy to search and then you can use the part numbers to buy it elsewhere if needed. I didn’t see a complete front end kit on there but at least all the parts are individually.

 

[DIVE DIVE]

I don’t have an M1009 any more, but when it comes to steering components I would only buy MOOG parts. You can get any other Chinese crap from any parts house with a lifetime warranty but when the warranty is followed up by a 80-100 dollar alignment it pretty much is a waste of money. Do it once and do it right. If you aren’t running a lift or over-size tires then you’ll be good for a long, long time. Keep everything lubed. Good luck.

 

[nyoffroad]

If it's not your daily driver I like to order from Rock Auto, they have parts listed from the cheap and scrolling down they get better and more$ but it's tough beating their prices. The only issue is if you get the wrong part, I did have that happen ONCE but that was just an A/C line.
It's nice doing it all at once and not have to worry about this or that every year. While at it toss in new shocks and brake pads.
All parts are for a 1984 Chevy Blazer and if asked with a 6.2L of course.

 

[Barrman]

Check your rag joint as well. Something caused your steering wheel to now be off center. Rag joint or axle U bolt is my first 2 thoughts. Front end parts normally don’t suddenly go bad. If that is what really happened something broke or bent in that turn. Check the frame around the steering box bolts as well. The frame is known to crack there which would cause the box to shift and make your steering wheel off.

 

[WWRD99]

My M1009 front end is getting dangerously bad, quickly. I went around a big turn yesterday nearly went off the road. I had to dial in a lot more steering and then the wheel was off-center for a while until things settled down. It felt like it was dog legging for a bit.

Rather than debug individual components, I'm considering replacing all the steering components. I spent some time looking up parts last night and it looks like there is a wide range of prices, from what I assume is cheap Chinese junk to what pricy, probably slightly better, Chinese stuff. I was hoping MOOG sells an entire kit, but unfortunately it looks like they only have them for other trucks.

A couple of questions:

1. Does anyone have a suggestion on certain brands for the components? Does anyone sell a complete kit?
2. I believe my date of mfr. was 1984. Do all parts match a 1984 K5 Blazer?
3. What size castle nut socket do I need?
4. Any tips or tricks? I'm going to have to do this in my driveway. Warn me if that's a terrible idea and I should try to find a front-end shop.

Thanks for the help.

I like to look in the TM and get part numbers and nsn from that then search those out. What I find is NOS parts from surplus companies out there that don't charge much at all plus you usually get American made parts. They will be old but not used so they'll work perfect.

 

[87cr250r]

OEM parts are almost always best. Be weary chassis components with zerk fittings. These are problematic because the correct lubricants for modernish vehicle suspensions are NOT available at the parts store and are typically very expensive to purchase. The rubber seals and components used in relatively modern suspension components are damaged by petroleum greases. These items will typically suffer a very short life not of their own fault.

 

[ssdvc]

Check to make sure your steering box is bolted up to the frame correctly and that there are no cracks in the frame. I would do that before I start ordering parts.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

Check your rag joint as well. Something caused your steering wheel to now be off center. Rag joint or axle U bolt is my first 2 thoughts. Front end parts normally don’t suddenly go bad. If that is what really happened something broke or bent in that turn. Check the frame around the steering box bolts as well. The frame is known to crack there which would cause the box to shift and make your steering wheel off.

Thanks. I'll check the rag joint. This has happened before. I was under the truck last night and confirmed no frame cracks. I'll weld in a reinforcement plate at some point.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

All parts are for a 1984 Chevy Blazer and if asked with a 6.2L of course.

OK, thanks. I came back to ask about that. I've been searching old posts and couldn't get that answer. I see that the diff is an open 10-bolt, but I'm not sure which "civilian" version to target. As an example, look at this site:

76-91 Blazer - Axles

76-91 Blazer - Axles

www.motorcityk5.com

They list multiple front end options. I'm hoping the answer is Dana 44 compatible parts because I'm about to go on a MOOG buying spree and those appear to be readily available. Those Spicer u-joints look identical to what's installed now.

I will jack the truck up tomorrow and start wiggling stuff in an attempt to locate the issue. It feels like the tires are toe-ing out on me periodically. Braking is scary.

 

[nyoffroad]

OK, thanks. I came back to ask about that. I've been searching old posts and couldn't get that answer. I see that the diff is an open 10-bolt, but I'm not sure which "civilian" version to target. As an example, look at this site:

76-91 Blazer - Axles

76-91 Blazer - Axles

www.motorcityk5.com

The list multiple front end options. I'm hoping the answer is Dana 44 compatible parts because I'm about to go on a MOOG buying spree and those appear to be readily available. Those Spicer u-joints look identical to what's installed now.

I will jack the truck up tomorrow and start wiggling stuff in an attempt to locate the issue. It feels like the tires are toe-ing out on me periodically. Braking is scary.

I wish I could say for sure but I don't think it's the 44. Look at the cover and compare, It's been awhile but I believe I had the 8.5 30 or 32(?) spline

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

We had some better weather today so I finally got under the truck and looked around more closely. I also jacked up the front and tried to "wiggle" the wheel assembly as best as I could. Also put a bar under the tires and looked for loose ball joints. Everything was fairly tight except I think the L wheel bearing has a little play.

I was also looking at the position of the tires yesterday and it looked like they were in different locations in the wheel well. This concerned me because I recently paid a local shop to install a 2" lift kit, mostly just to replace the badly sagging springs.. It occurred to me that they may have not bothered to make sure the axles are parallel. I measured as best as I could from the U Clamps to the front chassis attachment bolt centers. The rear looked spot on (I think the transmission shop just angled the diff up at bit and they may have checked it.0 The front however was pointed to the left with a difference of about 1/4". I don't know how big of a deal this is.

The only thing that concerned me was the L front spring. the lowest leaf has moved out of position. I think at this point I'd like to find a shop that can check the torque on all the leafs and also do a proper 4 wheel alignment. This probably won't be easy. The shop I normally use for alignments refuses to set anything but the toe on these old trucks. Does anyone have suggestions on next steps or locating a service shop that will check the axle alignment? Maybe a heavy truck shop?

 

[Barrman]

That leaf spring plate movement makes me wonder if your U bolts are tight. With the engine running have someone turn the wheel lock to lock while you watch the axle at the leaf spring. The drivers side because of the steering linkage geometry will walk front to back as the wheel is turned. Doing this on clean concrete works best.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

That leaf spring plate movement makes me wonder if your U bolts are tight. With the engine running have someone turn the wheel lock to lock while you watch the axle at the leaf spring. The drivers side because of the steering linkage geometry will walk front to back as the wheel is turned. Doing this on clean concrete works best.

Made me wonder too. This afternoon I got a chance to break out some tools and get under the thing. It looks like the "Jeep shop" that installed the springs torqued one side, took a smoke break, then did something else. The driver's side was totally loose. Good thing the sway bar kinda sorta located the axle or I could be dead now.

I have a parts shop putting together a list of standard service parts for the front end. I'm going to go through everything and get those axles squared off too (and torqued properly.) Thanks to everyone for all the advice. I love this forum.

 

[GopherHill]

It is hard to find competent people to work on your equipment. I have a good shop in my small town. I'm just getting too old and crippled up to do the heavy jobs anymore. Good for you doing your own work. Just do it with care.

 

[Erik Jenkinson]

Made me wonder too. This afternoon I got a chance to break out some tools and get under the thing. It looks like the "Jeep shop" that installed the springs torqued one side, took a smoke break, then did something else. The driver's side was totally loose. Good thing the sway bar kinda sorta located the axle or I could be dead now.

I have a parts shop putting together a list of standard service parts for the front end. I'm going to go through everything and get those axles squared off too (and torqued properly.) Thanks to everyone for all the advice. I love this forum.

Did you ever find a good shop? I actually am now in the Atlanta area, and have
have a similar issue. I would like to just replace the springs entirely really.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

Coming back to this issue. I finished rebuilding the driver's side and moved on to the passenger's side today. Things are going much faster now that I know what to do.

I just pulled out the short half shaft and sure enough, the u-joint is locked up on one axis. The locking hub was destroyed as well. Also some of the seals were missing. Anyway, going to rebuild everything on that side and I hope it resolves the issue.

To Erik who posted above, I haven't found a local shop that I trust. The guy who installed my springs managed to destroy my drive shaft with a cutting torch.

 

[Valley Rock]

Having done much axle work over the years I can tell you this:

Moog and TRW are both chinee junk at this point unless you just happen upon some old stock .

Spicer parts are what you want, they make "lifetime U-joints" that I recommend, and the original spicer parts in the red/white boxes are still available thru Yukon (I dont like them but they bought up tons of Spicer old stock) .

AND theres a truck parts place in Utah somewhere, Ogden I think that also has the original Spicer parts, they sell on eBay I don't know if they still do I bought from them on the Internet and on eBay and they are good guys, sorry the name escapes me at the moment .

And as I'm sure you figured out by now that is a GM corporate 10 bolt, they stopped using the Dana 44 around 1979 .