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Front end refurbishing

HardCorps79

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Kansas City, MO
Okay, so I got under the truck to check out my popping steering. Steering box "looks" okay. But all my rubber is shot- ball-joints, shock/steering damper bushings, etc. is all literally crumbling. I can move them all with just a little hand pressure.

I've been planning a good refurb of the truck for a while now, just waiting to get the dough, ya know. So here's the plan for the front end and my rough estimate parts cost. Let me know if I'm missing something, or if you have any suggestions and potential pitfalls I should avoid.

-Upper ball joints $65/pair
-Lower ball joints $$80/pair
-Wheel bearings (inner & outer) $30 each side
-Inner tie rod ends $100 for both sides
-Outer tie rod ends $100 for both sides
-Pitman arm $35
-Steering Box frame reinforcement kit $130
-Steering Damper $30
-Shocks $80 (pair)
-U-joints $80 (all around)

Total of about $800.

I'm also gonna change the glow plugs, and do fluids all around.
And rear wheel bearings.

Window felts/rubber as well. Haven't priced this yet.

Am I missing anything? :D

Call me nuts for dumping about a grand into this, but I only paid around $2.5k, with very little rust and 50k miles. Most of the bubba-job K5's in the area with over 100k on the engines are going around $5k. Figure I'm doing alright.

Again, any thoughts and suggestions are welcome.

(With my luck, in the next few weeks the tranny will blow or I'll encounter the gov-bomb will be SOL with my plans. :D)
 

HardCorps79

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Kansas City, MO
Anybody ever bought one of these from Coleman's? I'd love to know if they all look as good as the ones in the pictures and what they typically charge for shipping. I'd do it in a heartbeat, but it may take some convincing of the wife that I need to spend another fat chunk on the truck in addition to what I've already budgeted.
 

AJMBLAZER

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Paducah, KY
What do you need a new pitman arm for?

$80 for a pair of shocks? As in two (2)?

If you do rebuild your axle I'd recommend getting Moog ball joints. Better setup than the stock setup that most parts makers have. The zerk to grease them is on the SIDE so you can actually get to it. I was told this AFTER I put the NAPA ones in and realized I had no way to grease them after the axleshafts went in. Hrmmmm...
Rebuilt the front end on my civy K5 this summer/fall with a friend and it's all semi-easy. I would recommend getting a ball joint press if you don't have one.. Harbor Freight has a decent setup for not a lot of money. Popped the ball joints right out of the knuckle.
Mine has 3.73 gears so the CUCV front end isn't an option but if it was 3.08's I'd have probably gone with Coleman's. I had $200 in parts alone and I bought at a discount!


Oh, when you do your front axle u-joints get some Dana/Spicer 5-760x joints. Best around without going to the super pricey offroad stuff. Like 30% stronger than most other regular u-joints on the market.
 

Aurora

Member
121
4
18
Location
Northeast OH
Kipman, do you know if your buddy still has them? Can you give me his contact info? I'm looking for one to replace mine. Thanks.
 

rnd-motorsports

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Location
Evart,Michigan
Also on u-joints get NON greasable joints. as for pitman arm if you not lifting truck and need a drop arm no need to change it no real wear point also you stated inner and outer tie rods you only have outers then two drag links rockauto .com can get you all moog parts es2233l,es2234r,es2026rand es2027l all for around $100.00 + shipping as far as ball joints moog lowerK8195t and upper K8194t about 130 at rock auto wheel bearings clean and inspect I do not change them just to change them may save on them but need seals no matter what and get a good quality greese not just the run of the mill wheel bearing grease a little better grease pays for it self in the long run :driver:
 
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