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Front lockout light

Recovry4x4

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Ryan, i'm thinking for one reason or another, the hobbs switch was gone and somebody put that petcock in there to plug the hole. Still question where the plug went unless the truck was converted from a sprag.
 

sermis

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Ok on the pic's I thought I had resized them. Hay I have very slow dial-up and got booted of several times. It takes almost 15 to 20 min's or longer to upload a pic. Ok for the petcock valve, don't know it was on there when I got the truck aboput 2 months ago. Ugly but it ran. Winch no major dents other than tail gate, some rust with cancer under drivers door, all tires 50% or better, no smoke. Needed 1 head light, flasher, mirrors, reflectors, and seats. Guy even threw in a 5 ton spring ride seat, large snatch block, and a tank parascope for the boys. $2,000 I thought it was'nt not a bad deal. Now have it stickered and street leagl. I know almot nothing about them other than very loud and everyone gets out of your way.
 

Recovry4x4

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Sermis, you keep your questions coming and during idle time, read TMs. You'll catch on to this stuff in no time. Be advised! It's addictive and one is never enough!
 

doghead

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Recovry4x4 said:
Sermis, you keep your questions coming and during idle time, read TMs. You'll catch on to this stuff in no time. Be advised! It's addictive and one is never enough!

:ditto: Be careful ! I don't even know why I ended up getting two trucks! I thought for sure ONE was going to be good for me! But right now, I don't think I could part with either of them. :cookoo:
 

clinto

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Does anyone have a source for new Hobbs switches? I just traced mine down and it's bad (power going in, engage ft. axle, no power coming out, etc.). I hate to try and rig some civvy stuff on there, I want it to be right.

Ideas?
 

clinto

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Well, shoot. I ordered one from Memphis Equipment, got it yesterday, installed today and the light stays on. I know the axle is engaging and disengaging........................................ aua
 

clinto

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Update: Just removed the new Hobbs switch and put 24 volts to one terminal on the work bench. And unsurprisingly, there is 24 volts at the other pole. So unless I am very mistaken about how they work, Memphis has sent me a bum switch.........

aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua aua
 

Boatcarpenter

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You may be right Clinto. I just went out to my truck, turned the master switch on, no air pressure in the system, flipped the switch and no light. That tells me that air pressure actuates the light circuit, so bench testing, no air, should produce no continuity no matter the switch position, unless I'm mistaken how they work!!
 

rmgill

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It can't be that hard to break down the electrical parts on these is it? Open it up and check the conctacts for cleanliness and contamination.
 

clinto

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I considered that Ryan, but at $32, if I can't fix it, I don't want to risk Memphis refusing to replace it due to my buggering with it.

And I screwed up and threw the original away. Yeah, I know, stupid move, but I just didn't think about it.
 

Recovry4x4

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You are correct Clinto. At about 60 PSI the contact closes and the circuit is complete. Odd that the switch is bad from the factory. Use a continuity tester or check resistance across the connector. I've also ran across trucks that had the hot wire run straight to the light instead of the switch.
 

rmgill

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Could be the air switch is stuck. Try putting some lubricant through that. If the contact part of the switch is open, try squirting some contact cleaner into it.
 

clinto

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OK, the replacement Memphis shipped worked fine so the light works as designed. I shipped them the first one they sent me, I guess I need to call them and see where my refund is.............(they charged me for the second one, as opposed to sending out a replacement).
 

Boatcarpenter

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4x4 said "At about 60 PSI the contact closes and the circuit is complete." So does that mean that if one were to lose air pressure for some reason while the front end was engaged it would disengage when the air pressure dropped below 60 psi or does it require less than 60 to operate?
 

clinto

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4x4 said "At about 60 PSI the contact closes and the circuit is complete." So does that mean that if one were to lose air pressure for some reason while the front end was engaged it would disengage when the air pressure dropped below 60 psi or does it require less than 60 to operate?
Kenny was referring to the air pressure operated elctrical switch that powers the underdash light.

I don't know how much air pressure the transfer requires to stay engaged, that's a good question.
 
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