front pintel

[MDSA]

Put a (very) temporary front pintle on the M37. When we first loaded the M37 and M101 onto the civy trailer to take to the Veteran’s Salute, I pulled them straight on, but I didn’t like all the weight on the tongue. So I backed her off. I didn’t like the idea of backing on with that squirrelly M101, and then all the weight would be on the back of the civy trailer. So, I bolted a pintle to the front of the M37 and pushed the M101 on. I have a piece of wood bolted onto the bumper in the space for the winch. (Hope to get the winch put together this summer) It pushed great and was very easy to direct. I also felt good about the weight distribution for the haul to Marion.

 

[Chief_919]

I am welding up a slip-on reciever hitch for my M1028 that will do the same thing. A front reciever hitch is a great way to push trailers into a tight space.

 

[tigger]

I have a hitch on the front of my pickup right under my winch. I love it

 

[maddawg308]

My deuce will be getting a front pintle sometime this year. Just in case I need to do some tricky trailer maneuvering like you did.

 

[neilhendrix]

I will do the same thing just as soon as I flip the bumper for the winch install.

 

[SteveKuhn]

Deuce Wooden Reinforcement?

Bumping this thread with a twist. I want to put together a take on/take off reinforcement for my Deuce to maneuver the M105. I looked at the steel setup in this thread and photos http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/42777-getting-creative-deuce-front-pintle-hitch.html but I don't want it so permanent. However, I'd like to use those bolt holes on the far ends of the bumper shown in the photo to mount it.

I was thinking of double or triple 2 x 8 in front and double 2 x 4 behind with Grade 8 bolts. Pintel would bolt to front wooden reinforcement boards to avoid more bumper holes. I realize I can could use steel with a lot less thickness but I suspect that would be a lot of weight to handle and I have the wood.

Think that the proposed wooden solution will be adequate? If not, what would you recommend?

Thanks.

Steve

 

[MDSA]

I think wood to be very adequate. Mine in the first pics is simply a 2X6 with a 2X4 on top. Behind is a 2X2 with bolts running through. Mine did not seem to flex when pushing or pulling.

For your Deuce, the 2X8 will have the added strength of the steel bumper to add rigidity. The wood should be fine. Grade 8 bolts may be overkill as the wood will give way before any bolt will.

 

[quickfarms]

Interesting

 

[SteveKuhn]

The photo shows the truck pulling out of the area where we want to park the trailer. Up the bank and then back about 40'. The bank is fairly high (5 - 6' or so over about 20').

It'll just be a lot easier to push the 105 up backwards where the truck is leaving. I want to avoid bending the bumper when shoving all that weight up the hill. I figure that with the wood in front distributing the force almost from winch extension to winch extension I should be safe.

I don't expect that the pulling forces (truck moving backwards) will ever be anywhere near as great.

Does that change anybody's opinion?

Steve

 

[MDSA]

Not really. But I see where with that turn and uphill push, a heavy trailer may do a bit of bumping and jostling on the pintel. But you still have the steel deuce bumper to support your wood, and if you can find a steel plate or at least 4 big washers for the backside of the wood, you should be okay. At worst you'll spend about $10 on wood to see if it will work. That's cheap Research & Development.

 

[SteveKuhn]

If this was just pushing the trailer around on the flat or nearly so, I wouldn't be too worried about it.

Already have the big washers and a couple of plates as well. In addition to spreading the push force, I'm counting on the wood to act almost like a shear pin ahead of bumper damage. We smoothed out and graded the 'Deuce Ramp' with an excavator when we had some landscaping done so it's not all that ratty

The first picture didn't show the vacant lot across the street. This one does. I can get the whole Deuce off the street and maneuver on the flat to get a fairly straight shot but you're right, it won't be a smooth ride up and there will be some rolling of lunette on pintel throughout to the spot.

The Grade 8 bolt idea through the bumper holes is because they're fairly small diameter and I don't want to make them bigger. For a couple of extra dollars, I figured the they'd be more resistant to torque.

I'm gonna give it a shot and have somebody out front to spot in case things start to come unglued. I'll never hear cracking wood over the truck engine.

Thanks. I'll keep watching in case somebody thinks of something we've missed.

Steve

 

[RodUSMC1962]

When I was in the USMC we had pintlles on a few dueces to load trailers on LST ships.Once on deck they were unhooked and moved with work parties into position and tied down.

 

[SteveKuhn]

Well, we had a nice day so after putting together new flag poles from rigid conduit and new bumper mounts, I moved on to this.

This isn't sanded out or prepped yet. Bumper bolts are 5/8" (washers tomorrow), pintel bolts are 1/2", both are carriage bolts. I couldn't find the bolt lengths I wanted in better material but I figured that might be good. They might break away without screwing up the bumper. I plan on safety chaining.

Front material is 2 x 8; backers are 2 x 4. Not really enough room back there for much more.

I'm gonna try this a bit on some safe, flat areas to see if anything gives. Not worried about pushing. Pulling remains to be seen esp up grade or someplace a bit bumpy. Still might rework it.

Steve

 

[MDSA]

Looks solid enough to me. Let us know how it works.