frozen brake connectors - HELP!

[maddawg308]

I am trying to get this M200 trailer does for Aberdeen, am having problems with the existing brake lines. The steel brake line compression fittings (they have a name, I can't remember what they are called) have corroded to the brass fittings on the master cylinder, as well as to the inner wheel plate fittings, etc. Everywhere there is a compression fitting, they are frozen. I cannot unbolt them without rounding the fitting, and that's AFTER using Kroil and heat from a propane torch. Any ideas of how I can get this stuff off without destroying the female end of the joint? I don't care so much about the steel brake line fittings themselves, I can make new ones. I just don't want to mess up anything else, or round off the fittings to the point where I can't take them out at all....

 

[Westech]

time to replace parts, if heat and WD40 type of stuff dont work thats about it.

 

[FireFighterHill]

If you can get to it with a dremel and a cutting wheel you could VERY carefully cut it in half and then chase the threads.

 

[Nonotagain]

Mike,

If the brake line fittings are seized in the hydraulic component, it's time for new brake lines. Don't bother fighting the rounding off monster, get a pair of REAL Vise Grips, tighten them down, and remove the fitting.

Since you already tried heat and penetrating oil, it’s time to use the Vise Grips and Get-R-Done.


The lines cost around $5.00 each (1/4"X51" long coated steel lines) and can be bent using a cheap tubing bender from Harbor Freight.

 

[FireFighterHill]

I think he is more worried about finding and replacing the brake MC and inner wheel plate.

 

[m38inmaine]

Make sure you use a flare nut wrench, it will grab better and less likely to round off the fitting.

 

[Recovry4x4]

For the stubborn ones I chop the line off and the flare nut and use a socket and small impact on them.

 

[littlebob]

For the stubborn ones I chop the line off and the flare nut and use a socket and small impact on them.

Thats what I would do. Cut it short and find a socket a little smaller and tap or beat on it till it makes the unhardened part conform to the socket. The tapping and or beating should help loosen it up.

 

[maddawg308]

Thanks for the pointers, guys, will try the small impact on them and see what happens. Worst case scenario I round the connector, but if that happens I'll just try the Vise-Grip method.

I'll beat this thing into submission some way....

 

[pctrans]

Let some P-B BLaster soak on it for a couple days.

 

[LanceRobson]

Mike, if you can get to it and have a Dremel, Foredom or pneumatic cutoff tool you can try cutting most of the way through the nut but not quite to the threads in a couple of places. Then put heat on it again and try to crank it off. The relief cut allows the nut to flex and break the grip without threatening the MC.

Lance

EDIT: Mike, I should have added; if you make the relief cuts you can sometimes break it loose just by grabbing it from different angles with a small pipe wrench or vise grips. that may flex things enough to get them off.

Also, have you tried a small pipe wrench? It won't care if the nut is rounded.

 

[cornrichard]

One of the farm web sites I an on has invented a new rust breaker they call haggenbrew. Mix one part ATF with one part acetone. There are about a dozen theories on how this works but it sure works. I would put it into the don't knock it until you try it category.

 

[rlwm211]

Mike, I am assuming you are using a flare nut wrench on these fittings.

It is almost impossible to loosen an old flare nut with a regular wrench.

The rest of the advice is sage and the way to go, and I would do the same myself.

RL