Fuel filter base question

[bp m1009]

so ive been having problems with fuel leaks letting air into the system and having hard starts. Ive checked all the soft lines and tried tightening up the the hose clamps but my fuel filter base is obviously the problem. you can see diesel dripping off the wires under it. My question is where can i get a new filter base? i know everyone is gonna tell me to go with a spin on filter conversion, but honestly they all cost more than the stock filter base and dont have the nice bleeder setup and fuel heater. the stock style lasted 25+ years so i have no problem getting a new one.

 

[cpf240]

You could try repairing yours, there are many posts where people here have done that. I think the o-rings are available. If it is the fuel pressure sender that is the source of the leak, some here have just pulled it out and plugged it up.

Heaters, drains, and even priming pumps are available for some of the spin-on applications. I believe there is a good deal in the classifieds for the FM100 filter base and filters.

 

[Warthog]

99% of the time it is the fuel pressure sensor. Recently someone posted that one of the vendors had them. Most guys will remove it and plug it. Not needed unless you use the STE/ICE diagnostic setup. (very useless on a CUCV)

 

[combatmech]

I just changed my fliter base. Plugged up the hole for the fuel pressure sensor with jb weld.

 

[doghead]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6jweaCe-88

 

[bp m1009]

hmmmm idk if i wanna do the jb weld trick, only because this is my daily driver and i cant have her out of commission for more than a day or two. how long does jb weld take to cure enough to run diesel on it?

 

[cpf240]

Can't answer the JB Weld question, but can say that there was a post that talked about a freeze plug that fit the fuel pressure sensor hole.

 

[bp m1009]

ok, so i know what i said before, but ive been looking around and rather than mess with my old base which could be leaking from a bunch of places i think im just gonna buy a Stanadyne FM100 unit from the dieselstore. its only $50 for the base and 5 micron filter, seems like a pretty good deal to me. and i can add a heater and WIF sensor later and other accessories to if i want. but for now the plain base will do fine in the summer.
http://www.thedieselstore.com/template/productOutput.php?&partNum=STA33642&VehNum=#.UWZGPRxsImt

 

[doghead]

Capitalize

 

[Skinny]

I have a full writeup on installing an FM100 with heater setup and BOM list if you wonder what it's going to look like set up.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

hmmmm idk if i wanna do the jb weld trick, only because this is my daily driver and i cant have her out of commission for more than a day or two. how long does jb weld take to cure enough to run diesel on it?

I know you've already made the sensible choice, but just in case you go back to repairing the old one, the JB needs 24 hours minimum. And make sure you have everything CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN before you put it on.

 

[bp m1009]

Skinny, im pretty sure ive read your writeup a couple times now lol. seems like a pretty straight forward install, the only thing i need to get would be some NPT fittings to screw into the base to connect the hoses to pretty much.

 

[Skinny]

I would highly recommend McMaster Carr because you can get the exact NPT size and barb size with whatever angle you want. Most hardware stores are only going to have a handful of selection which will force you into adapters or not-so ideal hose routing. Also be sure to not use teflon tape on the IP side of the filter as chunks get go into the IP.

 

[bp m1009]

i have an oil field/hydraulic supply warehouse by me here, they have anything you could ever want so im sure theyll have fittings to work. its my favorite store!

 

[dmilkman589]

Tap the whole behind the white sensor and put a bolt in it, fixed mine.

 

[BigRix]

Here is a thread I started showing how I fixed mine with links to a few others as well.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?93084-Start-Stall-then-Hard-Start-Fixed&highlight=

 

[bp m1009]

So i drove the 1009 down to Baltimore this weekend, arrived thursday night and when i went to leave monday i couldnt get the truck started. I tried for nearly 2 hours cranking bleeding and cranking, but nothin. She was smoking out the exhaust during cranking but she wouldnt even give me a spudder. I was getting really mad so i even tried giving it a shot or ether but that didnt even do anything. I was getting a good stream of fuel kind of surging alittle out of the bleeder hose but she still wouldnt fire up. Does this still sound like the filter base leaking or something else? regardless, i ordered my Stanadyne fm100 filter and base today, ive had it with these hard/no starts.

 

[Skinny]

I certainly wouldn't classify myself as an expert when it comes to mechanical diesel engines but if you really had no issues with air in the system, I would think the IP is pretty much pooched. I believe a hard start is a symptom of a worn out IP that is bleeding down internally and not building enough pressure in the injector lines.

 

[bp m1009]

I certainly wouldn't classify myself as an expert when it comes to mechanical diesel engines but if you really had no issues with air in the system, I would think the IP is pretty much pooched. I believe a hard start is a symptom of a worn out IP that is bleeding down internally and not building enough pressure in the injector lines.

do you know how to test if this is true? it runs good when it decides to start? i know im having air in fuel problems too though

 

[bigburb11]

Tap the whole behind the white sensor and put a bolt in it, fixed mine.

Me too - worked like a charm,