fuel filter change

[rookie]

What is the procedure to changing out your diesel filter

 

[springbok]

Beg someone else to do it

 

[gcbennet]

Not a fun job because it's in a poor location for access. The unit level maint TM book 2 (3-32) has everything you need to know.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

when i ordered my fuel filter it came with directions on a small piece of paper.

theres 3 bolts up top that keep the metal cover on, and an oring on the cover.

it says to drain housing by opening lower bolt, mine has the hose that goes to the remote drain petcock in the wheel well instead of a bolt, so i just opened that up.

change out the filter, change out the water separator.

if you can clean out the inside of the filter housing that is nice too, so you don't suck junk down there.

put it back together.

open bleed screw on top while running to purge air.

i did mine without removing the housing from the truck and with very little mess.

 

[papakb]

A handy hint is to add a section of hose to the bleed petcock and run it down the fenderwell with some electronic "P" clamps. That way your bleeding fuel down low and not all over the footwell itself.

Kurt

 

[rookie]

i will get this done as i think im having a problem with my hummer it accelerates whie driving not all the time but once in a while like it gets more diesel and then it goes back to normal. what do u guys think?

 

[TNriverjet]

It could be your filter, but is likely an injector or injection pump issue. If a filter is plugged or has excess water, the engine usually feels like it's stalling out instead of accelerating.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

Yea mine idled higher after changing the filter. Old one must have been restrictive.

 

[rookie]

I ordered the filter I will be putting it on as soon as it gets here thanks for all the info I will keep u posted

 

[papakb]

You might want to pull the injectors and have them cleaned and pop tested. If your running originals they need it by now.

Kurt

 

[rookie]

I noticed that I have a small diesel leak coming from the pump on my humvee if u are sitting inside the cab and take out the engine cover and u look down the valley of the motor it will be from the right side of the pump it looks like a plunger when u accelerate it goes in then out. Any ideas? What are my options

 

[Hkx3]

You might want to pull the injectors and have them cleaned and pop tested. If your running originals they need it by now.

Kurt

I don't understand this type of post. All it typically does is create doubt, worry, and extra work for someone else. People 'trust' these forums, since usually they know more than the person cruising through here.

How do you know how old his injectors are? How do you know how old his truck is? How do you know the last time it underwent maint. or servicing?

Don't just toss a blanket over the world. Maybe his truck was fully serviced and 'rebuilt' just before being sold. I know mine was. Mine had a ton of new parts, some still had the little labels on them that hadnt seen water yet.

 

[tage]

while you're in there. ^^
i would ignore that. if it's not broken....

Look online. there's a cartoon tech tip for fuel filter replacement. KISS principle using a 10 harbor freight hand vacuum pump.

 

[rookie]

So tage u think that small drip is not a big deal i mean it starts and runs fine no smoke or anything just when it accelrates every once in a while.

 

[Lionel]

You don't say what engine its on, but I had a 6.5 doing the same thing. Bad enough it would fill the valley with fuel and you could follow me everywhere. What a mess. Turned out to be the torx screws holding the cover plate on the lower right side of the IP. Had to use an inspection scope to see it spurting out while the engine was running. There's no room down there so I ground down the proper size torx bit (to about half its length) and was able to turn it with a small box wrench while holding the back side of the bit with a flat screwdriver. Never had another issue after that. It was an easy fix.

 

[rookie]

Yes Lionel it's a 6.5 na do u have any pics of that where the Tory screw is thanks in advance

 

[tage]

Depends how bad the leak. If it's a drop every now and then. Well it personally wouldn't bother me. It's diesel not gasoline. However, that's a really bad way to look at it.
You can try the method lionel. Just tighten the ip casing bolts. Sometimes works, other times it does not. You can also run biodiesel sometimes red diesel to swell the seals. ULSD is just **** on old seals. I have done very basic IP re-sealing with viton seals. If it's not on the case I will send them off to get rebuilt.

 

[NormB]

while you're in there. ^^
i would ignore that. if it's not broken....
Look online. there's a cartoon tech tip for fuel filter replacement. KISS principle using a 10 harbor freight hand vacuum pump.

PM Magazine? Your google-fu must be superior to my training, master, I can't find anything of the sort.

You wouldn't happen to have that cartoon handy, would you?

-Grasshopper

 

[Wire Fox]

PM Magazine? Your google-fu must be superior to my training, master, I can't find anything of the sort.

You wouldn't happen to have that cartoon handy, would you?

-Grasshopper

I think this is what you're looking for [page 2, talks about how to properly bleed the filter]: http://psmag.radionerds.com/images/1/1f/PS_Magazine_Issue_596_July_2002.pdf I had to go to the PS Mag DoD website, bring up the index (first 1990-1999, then the 2000+ index) and ran a search in it for "fuel filter." Wrote down the various issues and pages that were in the list, then I just flipped through those issues until I found it. There's many more articles out there about the filters and different sub-topics. I may have overlooked if there were a good one about how to more easily disassemble it for replacement.

 

[MaverickH1]

My recommendation when changing the fuel filter is to undo the bolts that you can reach on top of the filter first, then undo the bolt that holds the strap around the filter, then go inside the cab and remove the two bolts that hold the strap to the firewall. This frees up the filter housing and makes it easier to move around for clearance to remove the filter.

When reinstalling, I bleed it while it's hanging off the firewall because it's easy to get to, then finger tighten everything that you can reach while it's off the firewall, and then torque down the bolts on the inside of the cab first, strap second, and the bolts on top last.

It's a very frustrating location and orientation, but doing the above makes it workable, in my opinion.