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Fuel Filter Changeout

aboonski

Member
722
8
18
Location
West Melbourne Florida
Just successfully replaced the fuel filter on my M1008A1 without any difficulty whatsoever. I could not find a thread with photos of the procedure so I took some as I did my maintenance and also posted a very short video o Youtube:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4jfVk_d4LI[/media]

The plastic hose that I used was a medical component of some sort and it worked great! The end that slipped over the bleed nipple was not quite snug but did not leak as I primed the new filter. Being able to see the a steady stream of diesel going into the bottle let me know when to quit cranking the motor. From that point on I just closed the bleed valve and plugged the pink wire back in the injector pump and started the truck with no problems at all.

Prior to starting this procedure I ran the truck to get it up to normal operating temperature so that restarting after the filter change will be fast and easy. I conected the plastic line and opened the bleed valve to relieve the pressure inside the filter. Lots of diesel came out of the old filter when I pulled it from the base so I realized at that point I probably should have opened up the bottom valve to drain the filter before pulling it. Once I pulled the pink wire off the IP I went in and cranked the motor until I saw a constant flow of diesel going into the plasic container that I placed in plain sight on the windshield; the wiper held it in place during the procedure. After that, I simply closed the bleed valve, plugged in the pink wire and started the truck which never missed a lick!

I could not have accomplished this task without reading several threads in SS relating to "removing the pink wire" before priming the fuel filter. I hope the photos that I took will further show the simplicity of this maintenance procedure.

I am getting ready to run up to Redstone Arsenal on Sunday with my CUCV to retrieve a 5KW genset so I also changed out my CDR valve (that I bought from one of the SS members), replaced the alternator belts (with Gatorbaks), changed the oil and greased the truck along with the normal fluid checks, etc. It's a long way from West Melbourne Florida to Huntsville Alabama and back so I want everything in my favor to avoid breakdowns!
 

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motormayhem

Member
628
15
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
You beat me to it. I was going to make a thread as I just changed the filter on my m1009 yesterday and after looking in the forum for help, I just did it. There is a fair amount of info in the TM's, such as the pink wire info. You can also relieve pressure by opening the gas cap and yes opening the bottom bleeder is helpful.
 
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aboonski

Member
722
8
18
Location
West Melbourne Florida
I never even thought about opening the bottom valve to purge the filter of fuel until I saw the mess that I made when I just pulled the old filter off the base. The diesel that was in the container went into my deuce fuel tank so nothing was wasted except for the fuel that came out of the filter. I never would have attempted the fuel filter change prior to reading some of the threads on this web site. I was a medic during my military career and never received any formal training in auto or diesel machanics. The first diesel vehicle I ever owned was my deuce and at this late point of my life I realize that diesel engines are more efficient and less complicated all the way around. I actually enjoy doing the maintenance on my MVs and I am extremely grateful for all the useful information available on this web site.
 

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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381
83
Location
Spring Branch, TX
I have to tell you that your videos have helped me out on more than one project. I had to drain and drop the fuel tank on my new M1010 due to water issues and was dreading the fuel filter swap at the end. Watched your video a couple of times and followed the -20 and it couldn't have gone easier. I was amazed at how quick it started after having not only had the fuel system flushed out but also sitting for who knows how long at GL. I am one happy camper! Now if I could just fix the drive shaft that easy.
 

91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
If all goes well, I will be leaving Salina, KS headed for Salt Lake City, UT Thrusday to pick up my second M1009. The reports on it are good so far.... I am taking a filter along and plan to change it before starting home. I never thought of the bottle on the windshield trick. Thanks for that... I always just pumped out some fuel onto the ground, keeps the dust down in my gravel driveway... Wish me luck, it is close to 1000 miles home. Glen
 

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Spring Branch, TX
My problem was my M1010 was missing the fuel cap (no fuel door like 1009) and sat in Minot, ND and then Salon, IA through 2 months of snow storms. I had over a quart of water in the fuel system so had to drain/flush it.

The bottle trick was slick and knowing to pull the pink wire off helped as well. All stuff in the -20 but a lot easier seeing a visual of someone else doing it.
 

CapKrk

New member
20
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0
Location
Houston, Texas
Best advice in this thread was "Prior to starting this procedure I ran the truck to get it up to normal operating temperature so that restarting after the filter change will be fast and easy." I ran my M1008 and M1009 for 10 minutes.

I have a friend that ran down his battery trying to start his because it was cool.

If you are lucky like I was I changed two of these in less than 10 minutes by not pulling the red wire. After replacement I cranked up the engine, got the steady stream and then I hopped out and closed the bleeder. Simple.

Thanks aboonski.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
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NY
Frrom the CUCV wiki, FIL3136 Napa

Click on the CUCV forum, and read the top 2 threads. Tons of info in them.
 
408
0
16
Location
Colo.
A mod should add this to the FAQ. I ran out of gas the other day and it was a pitb to get the system primed on the roadside 40 miles from civilization with no cell service 30 minutes before dark.
 

motormayhem

Member
628
15
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
A mod should add this to the FAQ. I ran out of gas the other day and it was a pitb to get the system primed on the roadside 40 miles from civilization with no cell service 30 minutes before dark.
When I change a filter I just open the air bleeder on the filter base and pull the red primary wire and crank it for about 15 sec or until air stops coming out. Run over close the bleeder and then hookup the red primary and crank it up. Or get a spin on filter base...mine started leaking and I went with a bowl/cartridge setup that is 1000X better, provides less restriction, and cheaper to replace.
 

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doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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NY
A mod should add this to the FAQ. I ran out of gas the other day and it was a pitb to get the system primed on the roadside 40 miles from civilization with no cell service 30 minutes before dark.


I'll ad a sticky suggesting you look at your fuel gauge every time you drive, right now!:p

I think every MV owner should download and read all the TMs covering their vehicle, at least once, to learn the basics. 2cents
 
408
0
16
Location
Colo.
I'll ad a sticky suggesting you look at your fuel gauge every time you drive, right now!:p

I think every MV owner should download and read all the TMs covering their vehicle, at least once, to learn the basics. 2cents
I have. I even had them on the laptop in the back of the camper.

But when you are coming back from 2 weeks on the road, are at nearly 12k feet and exhausted, and just hitched and found a gas can and covered 80 miles, I think the TM's wouldn't have saved me from the stupid mistake of checking my gas gauge getting over the first pass.

I was pot committed at that point. L or R I couldn't make it, so I chose the way closer to home. I figured if I could make it over the next pass, I could hillbilly cruise control it down to the next gas station. Unfortunately, the gradient proved me otherwise, because as soon as I was pointed down, the muther cucker shut down.

After all was said and done, I ended up not making it home the next couple hundred miles that night, but met some really interesting and amazing people that made the whole ordeal worth it. Sometimes it works out that way.

Good stuff for the FAQ though in this thread. Thanks for adding it.
 
Aboonski u rock sir great way to show us newbies how to do this :)awesome video

i got a good chuckle out of the remarks.I proceded to have a blonde moment also Fuel Gauges in these trucks are not reliable as im now going to have to put a new filter on i think air got into the system so i hope this solves the hard starting as i now have my new starter and batteries installed and the thing turns over great just very hard to start i know im gettin fuel because i see smoke comin out of the exhuast im tell in yall this has been a ride lol
 

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
I just pull the old one off and put the new one on. But I put clear hose on the air bleeder, open the air bleeder valve and crank until fuel goes in the clear line. I try to remember to bleed the air out. But when I forgot ti bleed the air it still ran fine. I think the air gets pushed out through the fuel return on the IP. Just do not get air in the injector lines and life is good.
 
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