Fuel filter , OEM or swap m1028

[jcollings]

Any thoughts, preferences Or opinions on this matter Would be appreciated.

Thanks
JC

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[dependable]

The stock ones work fine. I still have these on all of mine. There is a fuel pressure switch behind filter on filter base that sometimes need to be removed and hole plugged plugged if it leaks, but that is an easy 5 minute repair. On some CUCVs that problem was already fixed, depending on when it was released from govt.

The spin on filters work fine too, but many do not incorporate a fuel heater, unlike the stock base, though there are some available that do. You might not need if truck lives in FL.

 

[Barrman]

The stock "bread box" filter works. It has a heater element for cold climates and a water if fuel sensor. It it what is supposed to be on the truck. However, that long flat base has problems with leaking air which is why a lot of people including myself have switched over to a spin on fuel filter.

I got a heck of a deal on a bunch of bases and filters from Gimpyrobb for the Stanadyne FM100 system. At least 4 years on the last install and no issues. However, I don't have a water in fuel light that works or a heater for my fuel because I haven't bought those add ons for the FM100.

My opinion is that the Duramax spin on filter assembly Amazon sells for around $75 with a filter is the best bang for the buck right now starting with nothing. Water in fuel sensor, spin on filter, fuel heater all in a single unit. Plus a primer pump. The only problem is that 20 years after the CUCV Chevy is still selling filter bases that crack and let air in and they have to be replaced every so often as well.

 

[jcollings]

So it's the actual base metal that cracks or the plastic fuel pressure element that cracks and leaks air?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[dependable]

I've never seen a base that was cracked, have 8 CUCVs, 4 in active daily driver work fleet, and have bought and sold several more. Not saying it could not happen...

There is a small hole in the base that feeds fuel to pressure sensor. The seal on the sensor will eventually leak. I just remove sensor and plug the hole w a sheet metal screw or right sized bolt coated in JB weld.

The sensor was set up for use with the STE-ICE diagnostic system, which is completely obsolete.

 

[Skinny]

I have a pre and post FM100, largest canister and smallest micron on the final. Hand primer and heater, has worked flawlessly for ten years. I just like the added protection for the new at the time injection pump.

 

[jcollings]

Got it,
it looked like there's a O ring on that setup and I didn't know if that was leaking On people that described it that way. but it sounds like it's a peace that needs to be deleted if it leaks as you described.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[jcollings]

Copy that on protection for the new injection pump

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[dependable]

The hand primer would be handy, that's for sure.

 

[Barrman]

Sorry I wrote that the stock CUCV base cracked. It is the sensor as already pointed out. I was thinking about the Duramax one when writing about the CUCV one.

 

[jcollings]

Sooo opinion is that the Duramax spin on filter assembly jungle store sells for around $75 with a filter is the best bang for the buck.



Is this what is best for the cucv being a after market type replacement???

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[jcollings]

Now wait you're saying the DuraMax base cracks ???come on now

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[LT67]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it...

Having said that, the filter housing on my 85 M1008 started leaking and we replaced with a fuel filter system from a Duramax truck. It werks..

To be honest, I liked the original filter set up better...

 

[jcollings]

Was it leaking from that vacuum sensor port?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[Matt S]

I tried 2 of those duramax filter bases and they leaked pretty bad. Worse than the stock one I replaced. I ended up with a Racor 445R with fuel heater.

I even rebuilt one of the duramax filters bases and sit still leaked. I think the new lift pump was too much pressure for it.

 

[cucvrus]

Just put a self tapping screw and sealer in the hole behind the pressure sensor and drive on. I see the pressure switches for sale from time to time. I have a few optional filters I removed from CUCV's and returned to stock fuel filters. I am OCD and don't like things that don't belong when a simple fix is all you need. The Ford Powerstroke base and filter has the heater, water sensor, on it but I still replaced it because it was out of place. I have an Isuzu one with a hand prime, heater and water in fuel sensor and removed that one also. And then just a fuel filter base and filter with a fuel line in and one out. removed that one also. A friend of mine needed a stock base for the CUCV and a member here sold him a new one for $400. But sometimes money is the only tool you need and it fixes the issue forever. Good Luck.

 

[jcollings]

The Racor 445R is like what is on a cat 3116 m1070 as a primary followed by a secondary filter.

Sounding like the stock unit will do

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[frank8003]

"Just put a self tapping screw and sealer in the hole behind the pressure sensor and drive on"

Could one indicate where to put the sealed screw behind the pressure sensor that is obsolete?

 

[dependable]

In your second picture, the round quarter sized depression has a hole around the 11 o clock position.

That looks like a new filter base, so it may be the improved one that was issued at some point. If it is, that hole in casting does not go all the way though like it does on original bases, and you would not need to plug it.

 

[jcollings]

The blue line is pointing to the hole

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk