offthegrid
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- Washington pa
Im sure many of you guys drove yourself nuts trying to figure this one out. If your fuel gauge quit instantly and rested between 1/4 & 1/2 tank no matter how much fuel you have im sure several people looked for bad grounds or dropping the fuel tank and pulling the sending unit to find thats not it either.
Well here is what I found to be the problem. On the back of the fuel gauge itself is a 90 ohm shunt (Resistor) across both studs. YOU MUST REMOVE THIS SHUNT TO TEST IT WITH AN OHM METER. It must read 90 ohms. This shunt fails instantly just like a light bulb without warning. Replace this shunt with a new shunt or a 90 ohm resistor and your problem should be solved. Just so you know ' the fuel tank sending unit also reads 90 ohms with an ohm meter. If the sending unit is good. So you must pull the shunt off the back of the gauge or you will read the sending units 90 ohm resistance if you test across the gauge while the wires are still hooked to the gauge you will read the 90 ohms of the sending unit and not the 90 ohms of the shunt. This is why you must remove the shunt from the gauge to properly test the shunt. Also if you pull the gauge and test it with the shunt still attached to the gauge you will also read the ohms of the gauge itself. AGAIN YOU MUST REMOVE THE SHUNT TO TEST THE SHUNT . Good luck hope I've helped someone.
Well here is what I found to be the problem. On the back of the fuel gauge itself is a 90 ohm shunt (Resistor) across both studs. YOU MUST REMOVE THIS SHUNT TO TEST IT WITH AN OHM METER. It must read 90 ohms. This shunt fails instantly just like a light bulb without warning. Replace this shunt with a new shunt or a 90 ohm resistor and your problem should be solved. Just so you know ' the fuel tank sending unit also reads 90 ohms with an ohm meter. If the sending unit is good. So you must pull the shunt off the back of the gauge or you will read the sending units 90 ohm resistance if you test across the gauge while the wires are still hooked to the gauge you will read the 90 ohms of the sending unit and not the 90 ohms of the shunt. This is why you must remove the shunt from the gauge to properly test the shunt. Also if you pull the gauge and test it with the shunt still attached to the gauge you will also read the ohms of the gauge itself. AGAIN YOU MUST REMOVE THE SHUNT TO TEST THE SHUNT . Good luck hope I've helped someone.
