Fuel injection pump MEP-803A

[Light in the Dark]

How easily do the pumps rotate in your hand? Can you rotate the inlet barb with ease?

 

[MEPNoob]

I have two that are very easy and 2 that are not so much

 

[MEPNoob]

I got the motor sputtering now more than it was doing before 1 injector flows a lot of fuel to the top the other 3 not so much just barley any coming out

 

[Light in the Dark]

I don't know who you paid to look at these pumps... but it doesnt sound like they did much of anything for you. Take them out of the machine, and let them sit in a bucket of carb cleaner for a couple days. Take them out after, and bench test them (compress them to see if you get fuel pumping out of all of them). Also the carb cleaner will help work out any issues with sticking on that rotation control.

Also know that the location of the barb is important to consistent fuel flow, when reinstalled. You want them all to be clocked to as close to the push rod tube as you can get. When you reinstall the first one, you should make sure the metering pump is rotated as far 'open' in your as you can, when you put it in.

 

[MEPNoob]

I don't know who you paid to look at these pumps... but it doesnt sound like they did much of anything for you. Take them out of the machine, and let them sit in a bucket of carb cleaner for a couple days. Take them out after, and bench test them (compress them to see if you get fuel pumping out of all of them). Also the carb cleaner will help work out any issues with sticking on that rotation control.

Also know that the location of the barb is important to consistent fuel flow, when reinstalled. You want them all to be clocked to as close to the push rod tube as you can get. When you reinstall the first one, you should make sure the metering pump is rotated as far 'open' in your as you can, when you put it in.

Ok will do thanks will try it out and report back to you all. Thanks again

 

[MEPNoob]

I don't know who you paid to look at these pumps... but it doesnt sound like they did much of anything for you. Take them out of the machine, and let them sit in a bucket of carb cleaner for a couple days. Take them out after, and bench test them (compress them to see if you get fuel pumping out of all of them). Also the carb cleaner will help work out any issues with sticking on that rotation control.

Also know that the location of the barb is important to consistent fuel flow, when reinstalled. You want them all to be clocked to as close to the push rod tube as you can get. When you reinstall the first one, you should make sure the metering pump is rotated as far 'open' in your as you can, when you put it in.

One of the pumps flows fuel upward weather the motor is cranking or not is that normal operation? The other 3 don’t pump anything up in any condition.

 

[Light in the Dark]

No, these assemblies compress and push fuel upwards. You need to soak these things a few days (dont be in a rush) and see what they do.

 

[majoday]

I believe the shims come in different thicknesses as well. Black is in the .005" range and the green ones are only like .002" maybe less?
I've typically seen 1 to 3 shims under the dozens of pumps I've removed.
I have also put together a dozen or more motors without knowing what shims came out of it.
I typically put 2 black or 1 black and 1 green depending on what I have.... and I nave never had a problem and I have never noticed any difference in power from 1 motor to the next.
You will not damage anything by being off a couple thousands from "Perfect"
I would throw in 2 shims and set the pump rotation so the fuel hose is about touching the pushrod tube.
Once its running you can turn the pumps is you notice more than a 5* difference in EGT from 1 cyl. to the next.
Don't worry, you will not hurt anything.
[/QUOT That is good to know. I have 7 shims under 2 of the I/J pumps. I think the machine has been messed with. I was thinking about your method.