Fuel Issues - No Start

[7Dust]

I can move the rod forward and backward. I has some resistance but it moves.

Still doesn't start even when I made sure the rod was forward and put the cover back on.

I decided to try and bleed the lines at the lower lines to the injectors (not sure if thats what is the way to do it) and - discovered that you really need someone cranking the truck at the same time I guess.

Anyhoo, wrench slipped and I broke the soft plastic line at the top of the front injector so now I have to get another one (grumble). Some fuel is getting there at the soft line because it trickled all over the front of the engine.

Its my goal to get the truck to start again by December. :/

 

[welldigger]

The soft lines are just the fuel return lines. They don't require bleeding. Neither should the hard lines.

You need to remove and clean the fuel control rod. You shouldn't have any real resistance when you move it.

Another possibility is the button fell off the bottom of your hydraulic head. That will cause a no start.

 

[7Dust]

Someone please define any real resistance of the fuel rod since I have no comparison to make against.

SO, before I end up killing this deuce for good would you describe the normal resistance of the fuel rod as:

1. flick it with your fingertip either direction?

2. push it with a force of 1 lb?

3. Push it with a force of 5 lbs?

4. Push it with a force of 8 lbs?

I would say it takes about 5 lbs to move the rod now. Its not a terrible lot but I can put it in the forward position (verified with cover off) and it will not start. If its just a switch - why does it matter how much force it takes? On is on, right?

Is there something else happening here that I don't know about?

Small intricate moving parts and me will not get along I'm almost positive I will break, lose, and / or destroy something. I need to be absolutely sure.

 

[welldigger]

Someone please define any real resistance of the fuel rod since I have no comparison to make against.

SO, before I end up killing this deuce for good would you describe the normal resistance of the fuel rod as:

1. flick it with your fingertip either direction?

2. push it with a force of 1 lb?

3. Push it with a force of 5 lbs?

4. Push it with a force of 8 lbs?

I would say it takes about 5 lbs to move the rod now. Its not a terrible lot but I can put it in the forward position (verified with cover off) and it will not start. If its just a switch - why does it matter how much force it takes? On is on, right?

Is there something else happening here that I don't know about?

Small intricate moving parts and me will not get along I'm almost positive I will break, lose, and / or destroy something. I need to be absolutely sure.

A flick of the finger should so it. You should easily be able to push the bottom towards the firewall and when released it should snap back to the 7 o clock position on its own.

No, on is not on, in this case.

This is not an on/off switch. This actually controls fuel delivery at all rpms.

 

[Joehamel82]

Have you tried pressurizing the fuel tank with air? I had a hard time getting my fuel system to prime and killed two batteries during the process. Wrapped a rag around an air nozzle and barely pumped some in as iwas scared of blowing a weak fuel line or a rusty tank, and it fired up perfect afterwards. Been starting without a hitch ever since.

 

[welldigger]

Have you tried pressurizing the fuel tank with air? I had a hard time getting my fuel system to prime and killed two batteries during the process. Wrapped a rag around an air nozzle and barely pumped some in as iwas scared of blowing a weak fuel line or a rusty tank, and it fired up perfect afterwards. Been starting without a hitch ever since.

Do you have an a2 or a3.

Cause an a2 has an electric in tank fuel pump to prime the fuel system. Are you sure yours is working?

 

[rustystud]

I can move the rod forward and backward. I has some resistance but it moves.

Still doesn't start even when I made sure the rod was forward and put the cover back on.

I decided to try and bleed the lines at the lower lines to the injectors (not sure if thats what is the way to do it) and - discovered that you really need someone cranking the truck at the same time I guess.

Anyhoo, wrench slipped and I broke the soft plastic line at the top of the front injector so now I have to get another one (grumble). Some fuel is getting there at the soft line because it trickled all over the front of the engine.

Its my goal to get the truck to start again by December. :/

If you broke the fuel return line with the wrench falling on it, that tells me that the return lines are brittle and need replacing now !

 

[gimpyrobb]

As stated above, that fuel rod should move very freely. Can you push it towards the firewall and have it spring back towards the rad? If not you need to pull it and clean it.

 

[7Dust]

It doesn't spring easily - it has to be deliberately moved forward or backwards.

I'm going to cut that safety wire and take it apart but I suspect all the magic and voodoo is going to make a run for it! I'll try my best.

Up until now Ive actually enjoyed working on the truck - most things can be achieved with large wrenches and big hammers.

 

[welldigger]

It doesn't spring easily - it has to be deliberately moved forward or backwards.

I'm going to cut that safety wire and take it apart but I suspect all the magic and voodoo is going to make a run for it! I'll try my best.

Up until now Ive actually enjoyed working on the truck - most things can be achieved with large wrenches and big hammers.

There's nothing complicated or scary here. Remove the clip on the bottom, cut the safety wire, remove 2 screws, and pull strait out.

Be sure not to loose the little tit on the end of the fuel control rod. You will understand when you remove it.

 

[Joehamel82]

Have you tried pressurizing the fuel tank with air? I had a hard time getting my fuel system to prime and killed two batteries during the process. Wrapped a rag around an air nozzle and barely pumped some in as iwas scared of blowing a weak fuel line or a rusty tank, and it fired up perfect afterwards. Been starting without a hitch ever since.

Whoops, tapatalk isnt very forum friendly on my device and I did not realize this was the deuce forum. I will refrain from commenting in the future as I have zero experience with these trucks. I humbly apologize.

 

[welldigger]

Whoops, tapatalk isnt very forum friendly on my device and I did not realize this was the deuce forum. I will refrain from commenting in the future as I have zero experience with these trucks. I humbly apologize.

To be fair an m35a3 does require the fuel tank to be pressurized to prime the fuel system sometimes. So you aren't as far off as you might have thought.

 

[7Dust]

Before I gave up last time I sprayed a liberal amount of PB Blaster under the cover.

Today I went to mess with the truck and now the rod under the cover moves freely! I can flick it with my finger towards the rear of the truck and it springs forward easily on its own. That's good, right?

Anyway - truck still won't start.

I got a little pissed and even gave it a squirt of ether. Still wont start.

Do I still need to take apart the mechanism under the cover since it moves freely or whats another thing I can break / investigate?

Its been over 6 months since its started. I'm getting a little bummed.

 

[welldigger]

Yes go ahead and pull the rod. Because now I suspect the button fell off the bottom of the hydraulic head. So the fuel control rod needs to be out to pull the head.

 

[7Dust]

Ive got money.

Someone start my truck.

Pretty Please.

 

[7Dust]

Followed this sticky on the Hydraulic Head (which I have no idea how it works): http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?69241-Removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-Hydraulic-Head

I pulled the center bolt and put a dowel rod in the hole. It might be my imagination but when cranking the engine it seems to go up and down about 3/16" - 1/4"? Or am I totally misunderstanding what should be happening here?

What the sticky doesn't say is that a **** ton of fuel will squirt out the hole too! Is that supposed to happen?

Do I keep unbolting things or turn the wrenches somewhere else?

 

[FloridaAKM]

If I am not incorrect, the dowel is supposed to go up & down when you crank the engine; that is a check to make sure the mechanical side is good to go!

 

[7Dust]

It was going up and down - maybe 3/16". I also have the fuel rod freed up with PB Blaster.

This makes me think its something else?

What next.

 

[7Dust]

Almost have the HH removed! I'm three hours into it and here is the damage for those of you following at home:

1. Broken two of the soft lines returning from the injectors. Need line, sleeves, and ferrules.
2. Lost the clip holding the fuel rod. Need new one.
3. Broke the hard line going to number 2 injector. Need new one.

^^^ Anyone know where I can get this stuff AND a new HH? I'm pretty sure the HH is the problem because with the center bolt in and cranking the engine, no fuel comes out. This sound about right?

Four more bolts and two soft lines to go! Wish me luck.

 

[welldigger]

If the button fell off then you don't need a new hh. Just a new clip to hold the button on.