Fuel issues

[welldigger]

I have heard you can get a new clip and it will fix the problem. Can't say for sure since I have never tried it. But a clip is a few dollars. A new head is several hundred. I'd say it's worth a try.

 

[mattgunguy]

Going to try a new clip first. Whole lot cheaper.

 

[Floridianson]

Matt just wondering are you adding anything to the fuel for lubricity?
I'm having a hard time believing that with the low hours on most of these motors the button would wear out. Now if they are then is a design flaw.
Also I double whatever I get at the auto parts store. If I buy a gallon of 2 cycle I use half of it when filling up and or the quart of Lube plus booster I use 2 quarts.

 

[Carlo]

I thought these things happen only to me. It's good you had some people here ready to help. I've come up against some real tough ones but always found help here.

 

[orren]

Anybody know where to buy these clips?

 

[Floridianson]

[QUOTE=Carlo It's good you had some people here ready to help. I've come up against some real tough ones but always found help here.

There is no pill to cure my ill.


Thought someone said [URL="http://www.ambacdiesel.com

 

[welldigger]

Yes ambac will sell the clip directly to the customer. I believe it is best to call them. Their online order feature of their website is horrible. I wish I had the part # of that clip.

 

[doghead]

I searched for "ambac clip" and found this thread with the part number listed in it. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/archive/index.php/t-74508.html

There was more threads to read as well.

 

[mattgunguy]

The clip is 12 bucks or so plus shipping at ambac.

Floridianson, I have been running some oil in my fuel. A gallon out of every full tank. Also some power service anti-gel in every full tank when it's been cold out. Which has been a lot this year. **** winter! This motor has 19,000 and change, & 800 hours. The previous owner changed the oil & oil filters just before we bought her. He used rotella & apparently never bothered with the fuel filters. He ran diesel & veggie oil blend for fuel.

 

[mattgunguy]

So now I'm a bit frustrated. It warmed up enough after work to pull the hydraulic head again today. The clip is still on the plunger, so now I am back to scratching my head saying what the heck. Could it be the head is simply toast, or maybe the injector pump itself is toast. I'm open to suggestions. Here's some pics of what I'm working with.

 

[welldigger]

Does the plunger move up and down and rotate freely?

 

[mattgunguy]

The plunger moves up and down freely. It does spin, but it's real stiff. Takes a bit of effort to spin.

 

[welldigger]

There may be your problem. It should rotate easily also. I suspect you may need a new head. Don't forget to change the o rings when you put a new head in.

 

[mattgunguy]

Oh goodie. Off to the parts sights and diesel shop I go. Oh well cheaper than a IP. Thank you for the help. At least I know how to change out the head now

 

[welldigger]

Look on egay. There's a Chinese company that makes and sells a clone HH. It's about half the price of an ambac one and most people who have used one don't seem to have any problems with it.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Call me if you have a sec.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Get some valve lapping compound and give this a try.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ilding-reinstalling-Hydraulic-Head&highlight=

 

[mattgunguy]

So the wife decided it was best to get a whole new injection pump. Thank you eturd. So I've been reading the TM' s on fuel injection pump replacement as they call it. I'm good up till timing the thing. It says line the timing marks on the balancer up with the pointer on the block. So is that on the compression stroke, or the exhaust stroke. I'm assuming the compression stroke. I know the info is in the TM somewhere, but the dang electronic books are beyond me.

 

[welldigger]

Pull the front valve cover. You want the mark on the harmonic balancer to line up with the pointer on top dead center on cylinder #1. Both valves should be closed. It's a 50/50 shot. If it's off roll the engine over one more revolution. Then line the mark up with the pointer on the automatic timing device on the pump. Pull the fuel shutoff cover and the red/scored tooth on the hh should be visible. It won't always be lined up with the pointer.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I don't know that I would even mention the red tooth on the HH for replacing the whole IP. Make sure the valves are closed and the disk under the 4 bolt window is lined up with the pointer. Pull pump.

With the new pump's 3 bolts that hold the gear loose, install new IP. use a wrench on the center nut of the gear to line up disk under the 4 bolt window. When lined up, tighten 3 bolts to hold gear in place.

That should be all you need. You have my number, call with any questions.