Fuel issues

[nedbread]

Hi ,

I have a 1985 M1010 with the 6.2L diesel. It has worked fine since I got it in September 2019, although I did not drive it much and it sat for a few months during that time. Made 1400 mi from Minnesota to Texas with no trouble.

Recently I was told by another owner I met that he replaced his IP and he advised me to use fuel additive.

Shortly thereafter I noticed a rough idle and loss of accelerating power on the road. Pretty quick it just up and stopped going when I hit the gas, so I cruised to a stop and monkeyed with the fuel filter. I did more harm than good and ended up getting it towed to a local shop.

They could not figure it out. They spent a lot of time with it. They replaced the fuel filter (correctly) so it was running again but like before, smoke, rough idle, and no acceleration. They said that the idle-up solenoid was giving sporadic readings and is probably bad. They said they are 99% sure it's the IP because of their diagnosis process.

They quoted me $3,500 to replace a handfull of parts including the injector pump, with 10 hours of labor in there, so I more or less deduced you cant own one of these things unless you do the work yourself.

I can probably replace the IP myself following the manual and such. Should I do that? I read there is another fuel filter in the gas tank called a sock. It looks pretty gnarly to get the gas tank off.

Thanks for any advice.

Best,
Ned S.

 

[LT67]

Me thinks they're trying to take your $$$.... if they are quoting you $3,500, go find someone else

 

[nedbread]

Yup it is currently towed back to my house.

 

[Recovry4x4]

There is/was a sock in the tank. They are not too bad to drop the tank as long is it's mostly empty. If you want to confirm if the sock is the issue, you can use the aux pickup in the tank and draw off that for a while to see if the problem goes away. On top of the frame close to the tank there should be a metal line with a rubber plug covering, this is the aux line.

 

[nedbread]

Edit: somehow I missed half of your reply. I will look for that aux line and try running off that before. thanks.

 

[Skinny]

Sounds like they are taking you for a ride.

Bypass the fuel sock. If it still happens you probably just need an IP.

I would think maybe $800 for a reman pump and 4 hours of labor is fair.

$3500 is like more the double what it should be.

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[nedbread]

Thanks. Trying the sock tomorrow

 

[Barrman]

There is a very large number of CUCV owners in the Austin area. You aren't alone with this problem on an island.

That being written. Yes, it is much cheaper and satisfying to do the work yourself. I would suggest you click the "Home" button at the top left of the screen. Then go to the CUCV TM page. The manual ending in -20 has a huge 70-100 page troubleshooting section. Follow the steps by doing each and every step, not skipping because you think it is ok and see what diagnosis you end up with.

If it is the pump. There is a rebuild shop on FM812 between the airport and COTA that does excellent work at rebuilding Injection Pumps. Figure $700 and about a week.

 

[nedbread]

Hi Everybody,

I tried running the engine off an auxiliary fuel tank and that appeared to do nothing.

Today I thought to myself I should make SURE the air is bled out, so I performed the steps as per the CUCV TM to bleed the fuel filter.

The truck starts and idles rough with white smoke. The gas pedal all the way to the floor it crawls forward. After driving for a few minutes the gas pedal to the floor it does not move. Wait 15 minutes and try again, starts all over. All the time white smoke. So I will continue to diagnose.

Now that I have bled the air I will try to run off the gas can again.

I wanted to mention that since I got this CUCV I have had the following problem several times: when I am at the gas station pumping diesel into the tank, it backs up and I have to wait for it to gurgle in. It will literally take 30 seconds for the fuel to gurgle into the tank, even though its empty. This has only happened once or twice. Does that mean anything to anyone? Having trouble finding that symptom anywhere.

Thanks,
Ned

 

[Skinny]

Here is my take...

Time is money and I would think anyone wants a reliable vehicle to not let them down. After all this is a work or play truck and not like a race car.

So you may be able to narrow this down to a plugged sock or something. Is the pump leaking at all? Realistically if you were to replace the pickup, lift pump, injection pump, fuel filter, and do the glow plugs. The likelihood of having any issues down the road are slim. Buy once cry once. Unless you know the history of your rig, chances are it was left for dead or abused like everything else. Otherwise it would be working fine.

What you spend on diagnostics you could just say replace everything so you have a know good injection system.

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[nedbread]

This truck was in service as a SWAT vehicle at a rural Minnesota police department before being sold at auction to a dealer who sold it to me. All parts under the hood are labeled as to when the filters were replaced, what type of oil was used, etc. There is a small tag on the dash showing what was last serviced when and when the next service should be. I am more or less convinced I will have to replace the IP. So I am going to make sure to do all the due diligence before many hours and many dollars go.

 

[nedbread]

There is/was a sock in the tank. They are not too bad to drop the tank as long is it's mostly empty. If you want to confirm if the sock is the issue, you can use the aux pickup in the tank and draw off that for a while to see if the problem goes away. On top of the frame close to the tank there should be a metal line with a rubber plug covering, this is the aux line.

Hi Recovry4x4

I was interested in using the auxiliary fuel pickup, and because you said a metal pipe with a rubber cap I was pretty sure I knew what you were talking about. However, the line that I was thinking of, which comes right from the top middle of the tank, along with the other two lines, is called in the TM a "drain pipe." When I originally connected a hose to this and put the other end of the hose in a gas can, basically nothing happened. The truck turned over and would not start. Today I bled the air, or primed, and got it 'running' (sort of) again. When I uncapped this drain pipe fuel ran out and I had to bleed the air again. Is that normal? Should I try priming with the end of a hose from this drain pipe in a gas can? Is this the line you're talking about?

Best,
Ned

 

[nedbread]

There is a very large number of CUCV owners in the Austin area. You aren't alone with this problem on an island.

That being written. Yes, it is much cheaper and satisfying to do the work yourself. I would suggest you click the "Home" button at the top left of the screen. Then go to the CUCV TM page. The manual ending in -20 has a huge 70-100 page troubleshooting section. Follow the steps by doing each and every step, not skipping because you think it is ok and see what diagnosis you end up with.

If it is the pump. There is a rebuild shop on FM812 between the airport and COTA that does excellent work at rebuilding Injection Pumps. Figure $700 and about a week.

Thanks, this is an excellent manual. Waiting till I can get my printer working so I can have a version that won't run out of battery.

 

[Recovry4x4]

On my ambulance it was right there next to the other metal lines. I ran off of it for months. not sure about yours now.

 

[nedbread]

On my ambulance it was right there next to the other metal lines. I ran off of it for months. not sure about yours now.

All right, thanks. I guess maybe I just have to prime with the hose in there.

 

[nedbread]

On my ambulance it was right there next to the other metal lines. I ran off of it for months. not sure about yours now.

By the way, I am also interested in taking the tank off anyway. There are 4 bolts to take off the support brackets. One of these bolts is obscured, and it seems like the only way to get it off is to remove a bit of plate held onto the frame by two big 3/4 inch bolts with nuts. Is that familiar?

Here is a little sketch of 4 bolts holding on the rear support bracket.

 

[LT67]

This truck was in service as a SWAT vehicle at a rural Minnesota police department before being sold at auction to a dealer who sold it to me. All parts under the hood are labeled as to when they were replaced, what type of oil was used, etc. There is a small tag on the dash showing what was last serviced when and when the next service should be. I am more or less convinced I will have to replace the IP. So I am going to make sure to do all the due diligence before many hours and many dollars go.

Was the lift pump replaced?

 

[Curtisje]

I just happen to have my fuel tank handy. There should be 4+ 1/2 inch nuts to remove the skid plate.



And 2 straps that hold the tank. Not sure what size nut.


Of course the plumbing & wiring associated with the fuel tank.

 

[nedbread]

Was the lift pump replaced?

Thanks for your reply. Based on my looking around there does not appear to have been any mechanical parts replaced.

Thanks,
Ned

 

[nedbread]

I just happen to have my fuel tank handy. There should be 4+ 1/2 inch nuts to remove the skid plate.

View attachment 824083

And 2 straps that hold the tank. Not sure what size nut.

View attachment 824084
Of course the plumbing & wiring associated with the fuel tank.

Awesome!

On my M1010 one of those 8 bolts is obstructed. Only way I see to get to this bolt is take a sort of flange off. Not sure what my actual question was..... just checking if somebody has the same situation so I feel better about buying a 3/4" wrench to stick into the gap to hold the nut while I remove the bolt that holds that flange on.