Fuel Line Help

[Rustyshackelford]

Hi,
I've looked at the TMs and I can't find this info I"m about to ask for. The previous owner boogered the fuel line nut that connects to the lift pump. I'm on my second lift pump swap and the boogered nut isn't going to work this time around so I need to replace that fuel line and I need help locating it via part number or link please.

 

[TGP (IL)]

I don't have a part number, but this link might help identify it.

https://www.clagrills.com/grillpartshelp/glossary/flare-fitting.htm

It's 3/8 45deg. male flare nut.

Tom

 

[sneekyeye]

Looks like its just 3/8 steel tubing if you look up the part number for the output line of the pump to the filter. If that's what you are looking for?
It states to make from part number 3750950 for the line, 35.5 inches in length. If you just need the flare nut then its 411fs-6. Inverted flare 3/8 tube size.
It might just be easiest to replace that whole line from the pump to the filter and call it a day if you can bend it up. The assembly for the hose is part number 14061503.



Hillbilly Wizard sells the assembly for 20 bucks but shipping is near 30 dollars and that would probably get bent by the shipping apes.

 

[doghead]

Same as steel brake line.

 

[sneekyeye]

Advance Auto sells 3/8 steel line in a 40 inch length for less than ten dollars, and will loan you a flaring tool.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

The nut is the only point of failure so I guess I could just replace the nut right? I don’t have any experience with doing that. What do you think?

 

[Sharecropper]

I just recently fabricated a new fuel pump output line for my P400 engine build while it is still on my engine stand, and I can almost guarantee you that you will not be able to bend and then install a new line while the engine is still in the truck. My recommendation is to obtain a good used replacement line from John at Hillbilly Wizard or other source and then install it. But even then, you will have to remove your passenger side alternator and intake manifold in order to snake the line into place. The original designers of the engine routed the fuel line along the top of the engine block in order to warm the fuel before it reached the firewall-mounted box filter. The line runs just above the engine block and just under the injector lines for the 2, 4, 6, and 8 cylinders. So it’s going to be tough to get a replacement line installed with the engine still in the truck. But I believe it can be done, you will just have to remove parts until it will go in. I may have some photos of my engine on the stand which shows the difficulty.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Yikes no way. Let’s hear more about just replacing the nut.

 

[Sharecropper]

The only way to “just” replace the nut would be to push the nut up the line and tape it to hold it up, then use a close-quarters plumbers pipe cutter to cut off the flare so the damaged nut could come off. Then a new nut could be pushed up the line and taped to hold it in place, and then the end of the line flared with a flaring tool. However in my opinion, even this will not work because the line has a sharp 120- degree bend in it as soon as it leaves the pump, thereby making it impossible to slide the nut far enough up the line to get a cutter on it. Add to this the close proximity of the line and nut to the engine cross member. I really do not see how the nut can be replaced, even if the engine was out of the truck.

Unfortunately I see no way to assist the OP. I believe if I were faced with the same problem, I would figure out a way to get a small set of vice grips or a miniature pipe wrench on the damaged nut to tighten it sufficiently to prevent a leak. May have to lift the engine up a couple inches to get enough clearance for the wrench.

Hope this helps.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Sounds like its time to convert to an electric pump

 

[Sharecropper]

Yeah Rusty I was just about to suggest that.

 

[ridenby]

I highly recommend electric pump.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Mechanical pump abandoned, electric delphi pump installed, and back on the road.