Fuel mixing guide

[Aernan]

Sorry I got the HP wrong. I just looked up the the engine plate. Mine says:
- Engine Code B
- Max advance Kw 168

which puts my engine at 225 HP.

An old now hard to find document from Cat rates the engines A-E with a range of 205-350 Bhp

 

[DiverDarrell]

.The 350’s were in some mraps, strykers, and emergency vehicles. They also had a reduced service life of the engine . If building an overland vehicle, you want reliability and durability. Adding water/meth, wvo, and other things to your system will decrease your mean time between failures. I’ve seen some 450hp 3116’s as well. They don’t have a good track record in boats. With our trucks you will find that your on the leading edge for modifications as the are newer to the civi market, please post build threads and experiments so the collective can learn from your results.

 

[Aernan]

At this point I'm just stoking the fire. I'm designing the living space and holding off on engine modifications until I get it RV converted.

As far as I can tell running a water only system will not improve performance at all and overwatering just quenches the combustion so it's both safe and obvious when you went to far. I do plan on adding EGT(pre/post) and boost pressure gages as well as extra temp sensors for trans and differentials so I can figure out what my base load looks like before tampering with anything.

From what I'm reading the engine is designed to get some 500k miles which is much farther then I intend on driving it. There are piles of used motors for cheap enough.

I have some threads elsewhere going on about possible turbo upgrades. I believe the stock turbo does produce good boost but it can take a bit to spool up. Any improvements (duel turbo) would just improve spool up. I have some silly ideas on other means to get quicker spool.

Lastly the 3116 -> 3116e -> 3126 -> C7 -> C7.1 is now out. It boasts much higher HP. I have on idea how much it sells for but I believe it's designed as a drop in replacement. They have radically changed how they deliver the fuel to the engine to give it better throttle response and improve fuel efficiency.

 

[snowtrac nome]

The electronic engines aren't direct drop ins, yes they bolt in in place of the mechanical engines but you have to do a lot of wiring. First off you have to have the engine controller communicate with the trans controller a wire harness for the throttle pedal has to be added and usually you the gauge pods need a j1939 communication controller to be added for your gauges to be added. that's not counting the induction system ,fuel system, and accessory drive moddds that have to be accounted for. it looks easy until you try to do it. unless you are a teenager and need a laptop to tell you what is wrong with the engine, I find it hard to say a c-7 is more reliable and a better engine. that's coming fromsome one who lives in bush ak and works on all brands 7 days a week.

 

[Aernan]

Sounds like way more work then it's worth.

 

[snowtrac nome]

That's my 2 cents far easier to replace an electronic engine with a mechanical engine. This is why uncle sam found cheaper to surplus running trucks and replace them with newer technology. The upgrades to tier 4 emissions and the cost of the kits to do the change over would be outrageous