Fuel not getting past Hydraulic Head

[Av3fire]

I hope this is the correct place to post.
I have a 66 M35A2 that is new to me
I had it so it would start on either, but only idle at 1500 rpm.
I have cleaned the tank (drained and flushed out), replaced all 3 fuel filters (as well as cleaned the gunk out of the canisters), Installed a new in-tank fuel pump, and new injectors.
I have good fuel at the bleed screw at the last 2 filters...... nothing at the injectors
will start on either, but dies immediately.
I have done hours of research and am thinking my trouble lies with the Hydraulic Head
I took off the fuel shutoff plate and the parts inside move freely but when pushed toward the firewall, only returns to about 6 o'clock on its own, can be pushed to 7 with a little effort.
GuessingI need to clean in here some?
Is it normal to have what looks like oil in this area? when i took the cover off, it was almost full of what i am assuming was oil (the PO ran this truck on god only knows what, The tank was a mess - which is what also makes me believe the HH is in need of a cleaning)
I tried to take off the 3/4" nut in the center of the top of the HH to see if a pencil would rise and fall with the center rod, but that thing is TIGHT and i do not want top mess anything up.

Looks like there are lots of very knowledgable folks in here and I am hopeful you guys can help me through this

Thanx in advance...... If this is the wrong place for this post, please educate me and i will move it.

 

[Floridianson]

Yes leave the center cap alone for now. Post #2 is the thingy ( delivery valve ) we can check for a no start without removing the Head. Please do not loose the spring. Might start there first then you might have to get into removing the Head and check timing button.
deuce wont start. | SteelSoldiers

 

[Floridianson]

Well your not going to get fuel at the injectors without the engine running or at least spinning over. Also you do not need to bleed the Deuce injectors. You do need the in tank pump working to bleed all fuel filters after filter change at the bleed between the secondary and final.

Did you check the delivery valve? Trouble Starting | SteelSoldiers

 

[Av3fire]

Well your not going to get fuel at the injectors without the engine running or at least spinning over. Also you do not need to bleed the Deuce injectors. You do need the in tank pump working to bleed all fuel filters after filter change at the bleed between the secondary and final.
Here is your first thread posted on Friday same problem same thing. Did you check the delivery valve? Trouble Starting | SteelSoldiers
Maybe a moderator can delete this thread and you / we can continue troubleshooting your first thread. Plenty of guys here to help.

Thank you for the reply.
I did ask if there would be fuel past the HH in my first post and got no response to that question.
i have not tried with the starter engaged, as i thought i need to bleed all the way to the injectors.

do not know whare the delivery valve is yet, this is the first mention of it in any of the post i researched. i will look it up and see where it is and how to check it.

thanx

 

[Av3fire]

Thank you for the reply.
I did ask if there would be fuel past the HH in my first post and got no response to that question.
i have not tried with the starter engaged, as i thought i need to bleed all the way to the injectors.

do not know whare the delivery valve is yet, this is the first mention of it in any of the post i researched. i will look it up and see where it is and how to check it.

thanx

I have tried to get the center cap off the HH to test the plunger...... it is a 3/4" bolt and is tight as hell.
I cannot get it to budge and do not want to break it....is it right hand thread (lefty loosey)? can i use an impact on it? or hand tools only?

 

[Floridianson]

I would leave the center cap alone till you check the delivery valve. There has been one or two problems with it leaking after removal. Yes it is lefty loosey. Check your other thread you started and click on the link to a thread that shows where and about the delivery valve.
Here I will post it again. Click here on this deuce wont start. | SteelSoldiers

 

[Av3fire]

I would leave the center cap alone till you check the delivery valve. There has been one or two problems with it leaking after removal. Yes it is lefty loosey. Check your other thread you started and click on the link to a thread that shows where and about the delivery valve.
Here I will post it again. Click here on this deuce wont start. | SteelSoldiers

Checked the delivery valve.... was stuck in, go it out and all cleaned up
have fuel to the injectors!
started on either and let run for 15 minutes at 1500 rpms
went to lower some,, lowered to 1200 and it stalled
will not start on it's own.
what do you suggest next?

thanx

 

[Floridianson]

Checked the delivery valve.... was stuck in, go it out and all cleaned up
have fuel to the injectors!
started on either and let run for 15 minutes at 1500 rpms
went to lower some,, lowered to 1200 and it stalled
will not start on it's own.
what do you suggest next?

thanx

Sell me the truck cheap. If you want to try something. Remove the timing cover ( some call it the shut down cover but it is called the timing cover). Yea there will be some motor oil there and it should be. Now with a helper to turn on master and hit start button you are going to work the fuel control unit assembly by hand. You can hold it as far forward as it will go when it starts but you must bring it back with your finger to a lower idle. You could just let it go but it might shut off. Then see how low you can get it with your finger until it shuts off. When it comes time to cut the motor off use finger and push the fuel control to the firewall and it will shut down. Have helper watch tac all the time you are trying to lower the RPM to see if you can get it lower than 1200 with your finger or you might even be able to tell by ear.

 

[Floridianson]

What this test is going to do is eliminate the possibility of the main fuel adjustment being set to low.

 

[smoke]

"I took off the fuel shutoff plate and the parts inside move freely but when pushed toward the firewall, only returns to about 6 o'clock on its own, can be pushed to 7 with a little effort". Quota. That is a big part of your problem. That should move back to 7o'clock very easy shouldn't have to push back. clean up in there good wd40 or crc green can the hell out of it. move it back and forth multiple times. try again. My 2 cents.

 

[Floridianson]

Well that can also happen if the main fuel control is set to low. If he can get it to Idle with his finger then we will get into adjusting the main fuel control.
When he can start it as he has done the 6 o clock position is more than enough for the truck to run. Might even be real high idle.

 

[Av3fire]

"I took off the fuel shutoff plate and the parts inside move freely but when pushed toward the firewall, only returns to about 6 o'clock on its own, can be pushed to 7 with a little effort". Quota. That is a big part of your problem. That should move back to 7o'clock very easy shouldn't have to push back. clean up in there good wd40 or crc green can the hell out of it. move it back and forth multiple times. try again. My 2 cents.

I did get it freed up and moves by itself back to 7:00

will try the 2 person finger adjust tomorrow when i have a helper

 

[Floridianson]

I did get it freed up and moves by itself back to 7:00

will try the 2 person finger adjust tomorrow when i have a helper

That's good for you bad for me. Thinking maybe need to double check delivery valve as maybe some more crud has worked it's way into it. If I remember after you remove the delivery valve you can turn on the in tank pump and let it run and see if any crud comes out. Maybe catch it with a paper towel and look and sea.
Good thing if the fuel control was not going to full start position it should start now without starting fluid. Just have to figure why it will not settle into idle.

 

[Av3fire]

That's good for you bad for me. Thinking maybe need to double check delivery valve as maybe some more crud has worked it's way into it. If I remember after you remove the delivery valve you can turn on the in tank pump and let it run and see if any crud comes out. Maybe catch it with a paper towel and look and sea.
Good thing if the fuel control was not going to full start position it should start now without starting fluid. Just have to figure why it will not settle into idle.

I will try taking the Delivery Valve back out and trying this before i open up the shut-off and work by hand..... will not be able to get to his until later in the day..... I will report my findings.

Thank you for your help!

 

[Av3fire]

That's good for you bad for me. Thinking maybe need to double check delivery valve as maybe some more crud has worked it's way into it. If I remember after you remove the delivery valve you can turn on the in tank pump and let it run and see if any crud comes out. Maybe catch it with a paper towel and look and sea.
Good thing if the fuel control was not going to full start position it should start now without starting fluid. Just have to figure why it will not settle into idle.

OK, so here is the update:
starts on either and runs well.... at higher idle (1500) when i drop the throttle to 1200 it will stumble and stall
will not restart without either......
I have now replaced the fuel filters a second time...... running the in tank pump each time to purge and "old fuel"
some "not diesel" came out of the primary filter.

have fuel to the delivery valve and it does not appear stuck or dirty.

I am including pics of the shut off (does not start on its own if i push the rod toward the front of the truck) while assistant pushes button
And the front of the FDC...... i thought i read somewhere but cannot find it now something about how far that set screw was supposed to stick out and i thought this might be too far (evidence that someone else may have played with it.

any further suggestions? or is it time for a new HH?

thanx again

 

[DodgeTX]

OK, so here is the update:
starts on either and runs well.... at higher idle (1500) when i drop the throttle to 1200 it will stumble and stall
will not restart without either......
I have now replaced the fuel filters a second time...... running the in tank pump each time to purge and "old fuel"
some "not diesel" came out of the primary filter.

have fuel to the delivery valve and it does not appear stuck or dirty.

I am including pics of the shut off (does not start on its own if i push the rod toward the front of the truck) while assistant pushes button
And the front of the FDC...... i thought i read somewhere but cannot find it now something about how far that set screw was supposed to stick out and i thought this might be too far (evidence that someone else may have played with it.

any further suggestions? or is it time for a new HH?

thanx again

Any update on your truck? Having similar issues on a new to me truck.

 

[FloridaAKM]

You might want to start a new thread so people can see a new problem & thread, not the year old one that has been run for a while.

I have been thru this with my second Deuce & got it running good. The first one has always run like a young stud bull & never let me down.