fuel pump replacement

[tbearatkin]

I usually unplug the injection pump and have somebody bump the starter while I hold the rod up in the hole to catch it when it is all the way off the lobe. You are correct, that is a miserable place to work. Make sure you attach the lower fuel line before installing the pump as they are almost impossible to put on later. Check that lower hose thoroughly for any signs of cracking, hardness, etc... That lift pump is my least favorite job so far on these vehicles. Glen

OK I got the old pump off, however have trouble putting the new one on. I only took the pump off and not the plate behind it. Now if the push rod is on a high side would this make it near impossible to put back on? I am doing this solo here so what are the ramifications if I bump the engine by myself?

FYI removing the front tire hoping to get better access to the fuel pump area does not help. The entire area is blocked by the frame.

 

[tbearatkin]

Here are some pictures. The rod is there and looks in one piece. How much bumping would need to be done to get the rod to slide back in? Right now it is almost touching the plate on the outside

 

[engineman2]

Fuel pump

Ok, this will be simple but takes a little 'splainin to tell someone. Since the pushrod has a tendency to fall down and get in the way, there are two ways to go about it. Use grease to stick the pushrod in its hole. I don't like this since the grease gets in the oil and I try not to contaminate my oil.
The other option is to use a thing flexible piece of metal (Old hacksaw blade works as long as it is clean and burr free) to hold the pushrod up, then put the pump on and hand tighten the bolts. At this point the pump should be on enough to hole the pushrod in place. Then slide the piece of metal out the top, being sure not to damage the gasket I hope you remembered to install.
I have done this to more than one 6.2, many tractors and old gasser engines. It works so well I made a special tool just for this out of aluminum so I don't scratch stuff. A steel tool will work, just be careful. Any more questions, go ahead and shoot.

 

[tbearatkin]

Will try this tomorrow I have somebody come over who is younger so hopefully able to stand on his head for a longer period of time. That pushrod right now will not push back in so it must be on the high end of the stroke. Now which is easier bumping the engine until its at a lower spot or as I read somewhere try to turn the engine by hand clockwise on the flywheel with a socket?

 

[Matt65]

to turn the engine by hand clockwise on the flywheel with a socket?

I would use a socket on the harmonic balancer instead of bumping the starter. A pull handle will make it easier to overcome the compression.

 

[allrevup]

Ok, this will be simple but takes a little 'splainin to tell someone. Since the pushrod has a tendency to fall down and get in the way, there are two ways to go about it. Use grease to stick the pushrod in its hole. I don't like this since the grease gets in the oil and I try not to contaminate my oil.
The other option is to use a thing flexible piece of metal (Old hacksaw blade works as long as it is clean and burr free) to hold the pushrod up, then put the pump on and hand tighten the bolts. At this point the pump should be on enough to hole the pushrod in place. Then slide the piece of metal out the top, being sure not to damage the gasket I hope you remembered to install.
I have done this to more than one 6.2, many tractors and old gasser engines. It works so well I made a special tool just for this out of aluminum so I don't scratch stuff. A steel tool will work, just be careful. Any more questions, go ahead and shoot.

Since you descided to R. & R. your mechanical pump. You may lossen your engine mount and lift the engine on the right side a bit, pretty straight forward 15 -20 extra min. It will give you all the room you need. I did that when I remove my rear most right injector to remove a G.P. broken tip
A little grease to hold the pump rod untill your next oil change won't matter much they used a lot of junk during engines assembly and Diesel oils have a lot of aditives for that purpose any way. Good Luck!

 

[tbearatkin]

Update: Nope still not running but my fault as that flared fitting gave me fits. I started it by hand thought it was lined up great as it started great. BUT I cross threaded it now I have to get another fuel pump tomorrow. Guess i should be glad it ruined the pump instead of the threads on the fitting as it looks like it would be a pain to replace.

My helper never showed last weekend guess he did not need the money after all.

Now. For that push rod issue I had. Yes several said turn the balancer to get it to move. Well you may have to rotate it 8 times. At least we did. Then the push rod finally slid back in. It did run but sure did pump lots of diesel out that cross threaded fitting. So now that I know it may take multiple turns to get that rod to move I will be good to go.

I did find out the the TM was kind of correct on the bolt head size. IT said use a 10mm to remove the bolts well I found out the pump bolts on mine were 11mm BUT the bolt head on the push rod cover were 10mm.

 

[mudman]

On cheyv gas motors there is a 3/8's bolt on thre front of the block where the push rod works. I don't know if the 6.2 has one or not, but if it does you can do one of two things. You can either remove the bolt and screw in a longer one that will hold up the push rod or again remove the bold and use a toothpick and jam in there and that will also hold up the push rod as well...Very old Hot Rod trick. Good luck I feel your pain!!!

 

[richingalveston]

bad cam and worn out hole

Tomc, you may have a bad cam that the pushrod rides on allowing it to get in a bind inside the hole thus breaking them. I have friend who built his rock crawler with my old cucv 6.2. His father has a buddy that is a 6.2 and 6.5 guru. He told him to do the electric pump because eventually when the cam wears down, it allows the push rod to get in a bind.

It is not a fuel pump issue, it is caused by to much wiggle room on the push rod hole because of wear. the push rod is also a hardened steel so they break and dont bend.

He took my 6.2 and th400 and put it in a jeep body with d60 and 14bolt axles.
not sure what he did about t-case.
It is a nice crawler. tons of torgue.

 

[tbearatkin]

Second fuel pump is on now. All air bled out of the system. Same issue as before no power. I have replaced the Injector pump and it runs fine now. I now have a back up mechanical fuel pump and the knowledge to change it if it goes bad.

As said in a earlier post, As soon as you have the fuel pump bolts started STOP STOP STOP and connect the flared nut to the fuel pump make sure you do not cross thread putting it on as you WILL NOT get a good seal and just because it seemed to have started correctly look closely to make sure it is not cross threading. Then climb back out from under the vehicle and tighten down the bolts. The bolts on MY fuel pump were 11mm while the ones on the pump rod cover were 10mm bolts as stated in the TM's.