fuel return line

[mikey]

What a crappy day. While installing spin on fuel filters, my fuel return line broke at the filter end. The brass piece broke which attaches to the threaded brass end.

Can the end be repaired / replaced? Do I need a new fuel return line? Is there a NAPA part# for the fuel return line or do I need to get it from a M35 surplus dealer?

Also, does the fuel return line kick in only when the filter is clogged? Can I start the deuce without the return line? I need to move it literally about 50 feet.

Thanks

Mikey

 

[topo]

I have used the black 3/8 dot nylon black tubing with the insert and a outer brass ring like what is used with copper tubing to replace most of my fuel lines on my motor with no problems . the return line moves fuel all the time .

 

[rosco]

You need the return line to run the truck. The DOT black air line is good stuff and will work indefinately. It is also anti-vibration proof. I have had some running as fuel line on a ag tractor for some 20+ years now.

 

[greg2560]

My dads 3600 ford tractor caught on fire some time ago. It had a electrical fire. The only thing that was feeding the fire was a rubber diesel line that melted from the small fire then had big fire and that was a gravity flow line.. Have you ever see how much fuel comes out of the open flow on that truck with the tank pump running. Just my too cents put it back the way it was. It takes more time to work with brass or steal but it is tough and will last and withstand fire.

 

[mikey]

Thanks all. I will not do anything careless. I just wasn't sure if the return line always flowed fuel. I will not start the deuce until I have the new hose.

I found a new hose for $16 shipped. I'll order the hose and move on. That'll also give me time to order the freakin 9/16th hex bit socket that my deuce needs to drain the tranny fluid...

Mikey

 

[treeguy]

Huh?

First off, if your fuel return line is copper why can't you get a new fitting or elbow from a local hardware store and reuse the flared end with its tube nut that compresses the flare? Or if it is plastic type line doesn't it just have a round ring collet that is also compressed by a tube nut? In any case, didn't you say that the threaded something broke? So why replace the whole entire fuel line?

Secondly, what type of plugs do you have in your tranny? They are typically removed by inserting the square from a 1/2" driver ratchet (without any socket on it). If you have a plug that sounds like a 9/16" hex, you can get a 9/16" bolt and thread on a couple of nuts and jam them all together or weld them solid to make a sort of key. Stick this into the plug and put a regular 9/16" wrench on that and remove the plug.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Secondly, what type of plugs do you have in your tranny? If you have a plug that sounds like a 9/16" hex, you can get a 9/16" bolt and thread on a couple of nuts and jam them all together or weld them solid to make a sort of key. Stick this into the plug and put a regular 9/16" wrench on that and remove the plug.

My truck has the same plug. I used a 9/16" Allen socket to remove mine. A bolt with a 9/16" head size would be on a 3/8" bolt, wouldn't it? Bolts are usually called out by diameter, not the wrench size required to remove or install.

 

[treeguy]

Sorry for the technical jargon, but hopefully I got my idea accross.

 

[greg2560]

treeguy has some good ideals

 

[mikey]

Huh?

First off, if your fuel return line is copper why can't you get a new fitting or elbow from a local hardware store and reuse the flared end with its tube nut that compresses the flare? Or if it is plastic type line doesn't it just have a round ring collet that is also compressed by a tube nut? In any case, didn't you say that the threaded something broke? So why replace the whole entire fuel line?

Secondly, what type of plugs do you have in your tranny? They are typically removed by inserting the square from a 1/2" driver ratchet (without any socket on it). If you have a plug that sounds like a 9/16" hex, you can get a 9/16" bolt and thread on a couple of nuts and jam them all together or weld them solid to make a sort of key. Stick this into the plug and put a regular 9/16" wrench on that and remove the plug.

The return fuel line is rubber. I don't know the proper terminology for the end pieces, but I assure you the end that broke is unusable and I cannot even remove the broken portion without cutting the hose. For $16 I'd rather get a new one than to try my luck fixing this one.

I am not a welder. I tried a 3/8 bolt with some nuts and washers on it, but without welding everything I tried would just spin before the plug budged.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Sorry for the technical jargon, but hopefully I got my idea accross.

Just trying to keep you Guys straight!

 

[treeguy]

Mikey, regarding the tranny drain - try loading up the 3/8" bolt with nuts and put lock washers between all of them, tighten the crap out of them in a vise and then either peen the end of the bolt real good like a mushroom (if the last nut is near the end, or cut it to make it so) or mash/peen all the existing threads on the bolt to stop the nuts from comming off.

Regarding the fuel return line, so what your saying is the piece that broke is the brass fitting on the plastic line itself? Can you post a pic. if you want to fix it instead of replacing the whole line? Though if you think its easier to replace it than I guess ya might as well. I'm just curious what you broke.

 

[metalworker393]

fuel return line fitting

Hey Mikey how are you.This is metalworker393,not too far from you.I was reading your post about the fuel return line and figured I might be able to help a little.
Often on industrial machinery that is subject to viabration they use heavy duty compression fittings instead of standard compression fittings.The heavy duty type have the ferrule machined onto the nut instad of being a seperate piece.When installing the tube with a new fitting,the nut is tightened down and the ferrule breaks off of the nut as it is compressed.
If you would like to,you can go onto McMaster Carr online catalog and search under heavy duty compression fittings.They have them in diffrent sizes with part numbers and prices.(I have no affiliation with McMaster Carr,I just bought some for anticipation of changing out my injectors)I also believe there is a picture of the fitting.
Good luck with your green machine,don't forget to download the TM's and start reading them.(see JA tonka) metalworker393

 

[bones1]

Mikey, how about a couple of pictures. I am not sure which line you are working on.

 

[mikey]

Thanks again everyone for the replies. Both problems are solved. I have the new fuel line on order and I'm picking up the 9/16 hex socket at sears for $7..

In the interest of curiosity, I'm attaching pictures of the broken hose and my attempt at the 9/16 hex solution. I'm not a welder and I keep my deuces at a summer house so I was limited on tools. No lock washers, no vice. I did try the bolt with regular washers and I tightened the heck out of it, but lefty loosie kept winning the battle before the drain plug would budge.

treeguy, it's funny because i tried most of your recomendations but with limited tools. I tried bending the screw and mushrooming it with a hammer, but without a vice that was fruitless. I also tried damaging the threads with a hammer and chisel, but after an hour I gave up. $7 hex bit is worth every penny.

I only visit my deuces every other weekend, so I have no problem waiting for the new hose.

Thanks again all.

 

[bones1]

Thanks for the update Mikey.

 

[treeguy]

Ohhhhhhhhhh, wowwww.............now I totally see what you mean about the hose fitting. Duh why didn't ya just say so? Just kidding. Right, mine is completly different. That style looks very unrepairable hence the need for a new hose. But if you had to you could probably rig a barb fitting into the hose (I'm pretty confident that this is low pressure fuel at this point) and change the elbow fitting on the filter housing......if you had to. Well there you go. I'm glad that you'll be able to fix er up.

 

[JCKnife]

Searching for "fuel return line" turns up a lot of threads. After looking through 3 pages of them, this one seems related to my problem.

The soft (rubber) fuel return line coming off the final filter elbow and going to a hard line under the frame (return line) is leaking on my truck. I have removed the rubber hose. It is definitely the source of the leak.

The tag on it is hard to read but best I can make out:

FSN 7 69
2910 809 6913
MI H 13444

Does this mean anything or can I find a replacement at NAPA? I emailed White Owl yesterday, no response yet.

I have found it a couple places in the TM's but it is only referred to as "fuel line."

 

[silverstate55]

Joe, I went to a shop that makes new hoses of all types (All-Hose, don't know if there are any in your area) and they quickly fabbed up a completely new hose for me made from braided nylon, which will last far longer than the rubber it replaced. The cost was reasonable, but I don't remember exactly what it was off the top of my head. Just take the complete old hose in & they'll be able to fab up a new one with the proper fittings.

In the photo below, I'm underneath the driver's side looking up at the bottom left side of the engine...you can see the fuel supply & return lines are both braided nylon. They're some sort of light blue color, but I could care less as I am worried more about their performance & longevity/durability than I am about their color. Plus when the engine compartment is buttoned up, you can't see them anyway. But they work GREAT. The photo also shows a hose clamp securing my axle vent line to the return line fitting, in case you were wondering.

If you don't have any specific hose replacement/fabrication shops in your area, look for a business that can fabricate hydraulic hoses & fittings...sometimes these shops can make up what you are looking for as well.

HTH.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

Joe, I went to a shop that makes new hoses of all types (All-Hose, don't know if there are any in your area) and they quickly fabbed up a completely new hose for me made from braided nylon, which will last far longer than the rubber it replaced. The cost was reasonable, but I don't remember exactly what it was off the top of my head. Just take the complete old hose in & they'll be able to fab up a new one with the proper fittings.

In the photo below, I'm underneath the driver's side looking up at the bottom left side of the engine...you can see the fuel supply & return lines are both braided nylon. They're some sort of light blue color, but I could care less as I am worried more about their performance & longevity/durability than I am about their color. Plus when the engine compartment is buttoned up, you can't see them anyway. But they work GREAT. The photo also shows a hose clamp securing my axle vent line to the return line fitting, in case you were wondering.

If you don't have any specific hose replacement/fabrication shops in your area, look for a business that can fabricate hydraulic hoses & fittings...sometimes these shops can make up what you are looking for as well.

HTH.

Hey man something's wrong with your duece...... The engine ain't leaking!!!