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Fuel shut off solenoid exploded internally!?!
- Thread starter Hawkez
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Looks a bit like old age and heat showed it's ugly head.
ezgn
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Looks like someone took a hammer to it.
ezgn
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Flag Injection Pump shutoff solenoid for Standyne Roosa Master 6.2 John Deere at Amazon
No hammer was used on it by me I assure you.
Most likely what Mullaney stated above. I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this before. It started getting hard to start. Then ran poorly and died several times on the previous owner. Sat for a few years. Then I came along and have been trying to get it back up to par.
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Time for a new one. To investigate... peel back the plastic and look for the coil wires to have the enamel burnt off. Shorted winding/s is what we are looking for too. To check measure the resistance and verify against the book.
Yep, that's got to go, CAMO
If you need one, I have an old IP off a M1009.
Yep, that's got to go, CAMO
If you need one, I have an old IP off a M1009.
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chevymike
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This IS the one to buy. Don't get the cheap Chinese made ones. This is what I put in mine.
Just ordered one up. I was seeing way too many cheap crap ones. Thanks much!
I figured it was somewhat on the uncommon side just because it is mine. Seems to be a trending thing with me and my passion projects.
Keith_J
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Energized to run. That 3 amperes or so at around 12.5 volts generates a bit of heat which normally is dumped to the fuel leaving the injection pump case.
Keep it energized without the engine running for a good length of time and this can happen. Like flat towing with key in and engine off to unlock the steering so the front wheels track.
Keep it energized without the engine running for a good length of time and this can happen. Like flat towing with key in and engine off to unlock the steering so the front wheels track.
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So, if the vehicle needs to track correctly (steering wheel unlocked) for towing (Tow Bar Towing) . . .
Is the right answer to disconnect the battery to avoid the problem in the picture below?
Or, Should it only be trailered?
OR is it just plain and simple old age and a new part wouldn't have done that?
So, if the vehicle needs to track correctly (steering wheel unlocked) for towing (Tow Bar Towing) . . .
Is the right answer to disconnect the battery to avoid the problem in the picture below?
Or, Should it only be trailered?
OR is it just plain and simple old age and a new part wouldn't have done that?
ezgn
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I think He might be talking about constant cranking with no start time after time?
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No, the solenoid is powered (has electricity going to/though it) holding the valve in the open position against spring pressure any time the key is in the ON position (running or not). The solenoid builds heat as it's working.
To unlock the steering the key has to be in the ON position.
That's no big deal when the motor is running, because fuel is flowing through there pulling heat away. But if the engine is not running because you're towing the heat will just build up inside the IP around the solenoid, which shortens its life.
ezgn
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Leaving the key on while towing would be hard on the glow plugs wouldn't it?
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Keith_J
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Indeed.
Yes very. The TM states to never leave the key in the on position for any longer than two minutes or glow plug system damage may occur.
ezgn
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Kind of what I was getting at was that if leaving the ignition on caused the solenoid to crack, more then likely the glow plugs would have burned out before the solenoid cracked. I think Mullaney is spot on with the old age theory. Thanks to everyone who contributed the info regarding how the solenoid can overheat and be damaged It is good information and I learned something new.
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When mine died and I replaced it, I connected the old one to the battery and it snapped smartly like it was still good, but I remember it was HOT to the touch.