Fuel tank and starter switch issues, need help please

[LongueCarabine]

Hi everyone:

Been a while since I've been on here, and I have tried searching the site and my TMs for answers, but can't find them.

First, there is a fitting near the intank fuel pump on top of the fuel tank, that a very small diameter copper line goes to. It is right next to the fuel pump. That fitting on my 109 split in half so the line no longer has a connection. I've searched but cannot find what it is for. If I had to guess, it would be some kind of pneumatic line for the intank pump, or maybe some kind of return line.

My main question is where can I find a new fitting, and how do I get the old one off?

Also, my starter switch is giving me problems. When I go to start the truck, I turn on the main power, hit the starter switch and sometimes it will take several seconds for the starter to get going. I have tested it with my multimeter and it tests good, but this problem persists. I checked my battery connections they are good and solid, and the batteries are strong. Buzzer comes on immediately. My starter is not dragging or anything, when the switch finally makes a connection, it starts up almost immediately. ETA: I checked the connection at the starter switch also. Disconnected the plug, hooked up the meter, and turned on the main power switch. 24.3 volts going to the starter switch.

I am not a big fan of the push button switch. I have cleaned the contacts for the wires but it appears there is no way to get inside the switch to clean in there. Didn't the Deuce also use the Caterpillar type toggle switch? I think I would much prefer one like that.

TIA,

LC

 

[Dipstick]

Disconnect the two wires at the start switch and check to make sure you have continuity across the start switch with the button depressed. I replaced mine with a heavy duty marine push button start switch with good results. I also have a touchy main switch. It will fail to close every once in a while and render the start button inoperable. I usually just cycle it once and everything is good. I will probably replace the main switch at some point. Hope that helps.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Sounds like you know how to test the starter button. Maybe the brushes and contacts in the starter need cleaned up? I have had that issue before.

 

[doghead]

You may be talking about the fuel return line or the fuel fired heater line.

Follow it.

Turn it with a wrench.

 

[LongueCarabine]

Sounds like you know how to test the starter button. Maybe the brushes and contacts in the starter need cleaned up? I have had that issue before.

Is this a very complicated or difficult task? I'm a decent shadetree mechanic but it's cold and I'll be working outside. Just wondering if I'm gonna get myself into something I can't finish.

ETA: Yes, I read a thread on here about testing the switch, it seems to be good, my meter beeps at me when I depress the button. And the power is definitely getting to the switch, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Guess I'll have to try the starter if it isn't too involved.

LC

 

[doghead]

I'd test or "jumper out" the relay first.

Pretty sure this is covered in a -20 or -24 TM. Look in troubleshooting, does not cranck.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Well, it could be the relay/solenoid on the side of the motor, above the starter too.

No cleaning the contacts isn't complicated, but pulling the starter and taking it inside to work on sucks.

 

[dabtl]

I had starter relay problems, intermittent. When I removed it the cables came off easily except for one. The nut had stripped the post and would not come off or tighten. Check it out on yours.

 

[LongueCarabine]

Well, a few more issues to deal with. Intank fuel pump wasn't coming on, sure enough the 2 amp fuse had blown. Replaced that, and the pump comes on, but it is not sending fuel downstream. Bled the fuel filters but still no dice.

Getting too dark to work on now, gonna have to resume next weekend, I guess.

LC

 

[doghead]

In-tank fuel pump, or intake fuel pump? It has both unless you have an ether start system?

 

[LongueCarabine]

In-tank fuel pump, or intake fuel pump? It has both unless you have an ether start system?

In tank. Just fixed it.

Not the pump, just my post.
LC

 

[doghead]

You need a slow blow fuse. Some guys use a 4 or 5 amp slow blow.

 

[LongueCarabine]

You need a slow blow fuse. Some guys use a 4 or 5 amp slow blow.

I thought using a higher amp fuse was not a wise thing to do, particularly with the fuel system components? I may just replace the entire fuel tank and pump if I can find a decent used one. I've had to repair several pinholes in the tank, and now it looks like the fuel pump might be going out too.

LC

 

[clinto]

If you can hear the pump spinning but it's not sending fuel to the filters, it may have lost it's shims:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?5753-Fuel-Pump

Start with that.

On to the push switch: When you check it with the multimeter, you need to make sure it's flowing the right amount of juice, not just closing the circuit. With age the push button switches wear out, that's why some require you to push really hard on them to make the connection to start.

 

[doghead]

Depending on what information source you look at, 3 or 4 amp was stock.

 

[LongueCarabine]

Depending on what information source you look at, 3 or 4 amp was stock.

Thanks, didn't know that. I will look into it.

LC

 

[LongueCarabine]

If you can hear the pump spinning but it's not sending fuel to the filters, it may have lost it's shims:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?5753-Fuel-Pump

Start with that.

On to the push switch: When you check it with the multimeter, you need to make sure it's flowing the right amount of juice, not just closing the circuit. With age the push button switches wear out, that's why some require you to push really hard on them to make the connection to start.

That's what has been going on with mine. I have to keep mashing on it hard and eventually it will get juice to the starter. I'm pretty sure I've seen Deuces with the Caterpillar type toggle switch, I wonder if there is a source out there?

LC

 

[clinto]

That's what has been going on with mine. I have to keep mashing on it hard and eventually it will get juice to the starter. I'm pretty sure I've seen Deuces with the Caterpillar type toggle switch, I wonder if there is a source out there?

LC

I'll bet a cold beer your hard start issue is a bad starter switch.

The rotary switch has been discussed here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?64641-Start-Switch

and here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?66965-m35a2-twist-style-start

The rotary switches are momentary units that the usual vendors will have (Saturn, Memphis, eBay, etc.).

 

[Dipstick]

Guys...I'm late to the party. Blame it on working twelve hour midnight shifts. My problem turned out to be not the starter switch after all, but the fact that the starter switch wires shorted in the harness. This caused my starter to engage at 45 mph. Not a good thing. Thankfully the ring gear survived. I ran new wire outside the harness for the start switch function and installed a new starter (as four of the teeth on my original starter were no longer reporting for duty). This depressing Deuce debacle rendered the ground terminal on my brand new rear NAPA 6 Tl a pool of solder. The battery held up. My re-wiring was spot on. The new starter works great!