Fuel Tank has new holes

[JohnGarc]

Hey Gang,

I feel like an official idiot.. This week during the rain storms, my humvee was collecting alot of water at the base of the rear bed. I decided to drill a few holes in the bed to let the water drain. Little did I now, I drilled two small holes in the fuel tank. Ugh... Anyway, when I went to start the truck it ran for a few minutes and then stopped. When i tried to start it again, it didn't want to start. Does the fuel tank have to be pressurized for the Humvee to start? I saw this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?127621-Ran-out-of-fuel-on-a-HMMWV

I will be pulling the tank off to repair the two small holes. I am quite sure there is water in the fuel tank as well.

Please help a brother out...

Thanks,
John

 

[tage]

You are the king!
Haha

Reminds me of the time some guy did a fender eliminator on Kawasaki sports bike. Drilled two holes through the ecm. LOL

Diesel doesn't need to be Pressurized at the tank. In fact it's gravity fed to a mechanical fuel pump then to the injection pump where its pressurized.
My guess you have your fuel filter full of water. Drain out the water, bleed the system. Replace the tank.

 

[Action]

In the link you posted, they use pressure in the tank to bleed air out of the lines.

 

[JohnGarc]

You are the king!
Haha

Reminds me of the time some guy did a fender eliminator on Kawasaki sports bike. Drilled two holes through the ecm. LOL

Diesel doesn't need to be Pressurized at the tank. In fact it's gravity fed to a mechanical fuel pump then to the injection pump where its pressurized.
My guess you have your fuel filter full of water. Drain out the water, bleed the system. Replace the tank.

Sweet... Well, thanks for the info. i have some work to do tomorrow morning. lol

John

 

[ken]

It's a lot less work to remove the power wire to the IP then open the filter bleeder and crank the engine until fuel comes out of the bleeder. Normally less then 30 sec of cranking. Then close the bleeder plug in the IP and bleed at the injectors. If you don't have air at the IP to the injectors it will run.

 

[papakb]

Depending on how much fuel you have in the tank just get a large plastic drain pan and loosen the drain plug and catch what comes out. HDPE tanks are notoriously hard to reseal but if the holes are small enough plug them with a stainless self tapping screw and then cover them with some stuff called Seal All. Most hardware stores will have it and it is fuel resistant. This might also be prime time to consider installing the fuel tank sender plate in the floor.

 

[JohnGarc]

It's a lot less work to remove the power wire to the IP then open the filter bleeder and crank the engine until fuel comes out of the bleeder. Normally less then 30 sec of cranking. Then close the bleeder plug in the IP and bleed at the injectors. If you don't have air at the IP to the injectors it will run.

What is the IP power thingy? Thanks

 

[JohnGarc]

Hello and thanks everyone for helping out! It's very much appreciated...

I will try the self tapped screw and "seal all" repair on the tank. Thanks for that tip.

I got the top of the tank twice with the drill. I shined a light straight down the holes and could see daylight from underneath the tank.

Luckily, the holes are less than a 1/4 inch diameter.

Cheers,
John G

 

[papakb]

The IP power wire is labeled #54 and plugs into the top of the IP. Pulling this wire off is also a simple way to disable the vehicle as the engine won't start with it unplugged.