• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

fuse block is loose

idM1028

New member
429
1
0
Location
Somewhere in Nebraska
Female contacts are easy. Even easier in my opinion than male contacts. There should be a small "latch" on the female contact. Look at the contact and find out what side it is on. Then take an appropriately sized flathead screwdriver and push it in on the side with the "latch." You should be able to pull the contact out no problem. If it doesn't come out, try the step with the screwdriver again. You can also try GENTLY wiggling the screwdriver against the contact. Also note, that usually when you get the contact out, you will need to reposition the "latch" to its previous position before you put it back in. The aforementioned screwdriver works great for this. Just bend the "latch" back up. Once you put the contact back in, give it a good tug to make sure its seated. Nothing too hard, just a slightly stiff pull to make sure its in. If its not, reposition the "latch" and try again. As far as cleaning contacts, especially smaller ones, I find a bronze bore brush from a gun cleaning kit works wonders. If you want to practice doing this stuff, take a look at the plugs on your alternators. Run down to the auto parts store and get the exact same plug with the pigtail. They usually run around $5. On the ones I got, the "latch" on the contact is opposite the plastic latch on the plug. Also, if any of your GEN lights start giving you problems, you can make a jumper wire out of your new plug/pigtail to see if the problem is in the GEN light/exciter circuit or elsewhere.
 

84cucv1ton

Active member
1,822
0
36
Location
New Jersey
Bringing this back up to the top. Did some work to this truck a few years back. My buddy got another truck. This one just parked in the corner of the yard. Looks like this truck will be mine soon. Went over and took a look at it drop some batteries and in Fired right up. I didn't realize before they the new glow plugs seem to be getting constant voltage. I cleaned up the wiring the best I could fuse block to like it said the beginning of this thread. I used connection cleaner and dielectric grease on everything. While I was there I clean the grounds as well. I ran it little while. Moved around some. Generator 2 light was on a bit. Pretty dim but it was on. I shut it down. Would not start back up. Rear battery had 12 V. Front battery had 9 V according to my meter. Any other ideas what to look for? thanks guys
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
Always start any electrical troubleshooting with fully charged and load tested batteries. The 6.2L engine needs both batteries fully charged in order to crank the engine. 9v is a dead battery.

The issue with lights coming on when other things are turned on usually means there is a back feed thru the grounds.

Does any of the other wiring look like it has been messed with?

Post a picture of the GP relay on the firewall. It may be the wrong one and is draining the battery.

Back to your original question, the fusebox attaches to the firewall with two long screws with course threads. Who ever worked on the system before probably removed them trying to figure out the problem and didn't replace them. I have picked some up at my local salvage yard.
 
Last edited:

84cucv1ton

Active member
1,822
0
36
Location
New Jersey
Here is a picture of the relay. Have both batteries charging now. Back feed through the grounds? That's no one on me. Rest of the wiring looks okay. The fuse block loose and the wire running over to the other side is all I see. I'll see if I can find the screws. Really nice out today can make use of it . Thanks for the help
 

Attachments

nyoffroad

Well-known member
942
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
. Back feed through the grounds? That's no one on me.
Sure, electricity is lazy! It will allways take the easeist path to ground. Haven't you ever seen an oncomeing car with one brite headlight and the other just kinda glowing real dim? That could be a bad ground not saying it is just could be.
Start with fully charged batts. and tighten up the 2 fuse box mounting screws and the one under the hood that holds the two halves together. You'll have to reroute that ground (assuming it's a ground) that the DPO installed.
You said the GP's are getting constant volts? Is the relay stuck? Or hooked up wrong? Are you sure that black wire with the red butt splice is a ground and not power?
 
Last edited:

cpf240

Active member
1,479
5
38
Location
Free in Northern Idaho
...You said the GP's are getting constant volts? Is the relay stuck? Or hooked up wrong? Are you sure that black wire with the red butt splice is a ground and not power?
Or a non-isolated ground relay? In the stock system, there must be *NO* conductivity between the GP relay mounting tabs and any of the terminals, otherwise bad things can happen.
 
Last edited:

84cucv1ton

Active member
1,822
0
36
Location
New Jersey
I think the glow plugs were getting constant voltage because where the glow plug box is just touch the box it would click on again. Bad contact I guess. I was going to remove that card and put in a push button. Trying to find those screws for the fuse block. Relay is not stuck. I hear it click on and off. Took the wiring off the alternators to clean up some. Passenger-side alternator the white plug that is kinda hard to get to. Part of it is melted. I tried to get the plug off and I broke the **** thing. Work in progress
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
PM me your address and I will grab you a couple of fusebox screws when I am at the parts yard this week.
 

84cucv1ton

Active member
1,822
0
36
Location
New Jersey
Both fully recharge batteries back in. Cleaned up all the grounds again. Cleaned all the wire connections again. Dielectric grease on everything. Lights are a bit brighter. Both alternators back in. 24.5 V out the passenger side. 11.5 V on the driver side. Going to check the TMs see what they say about the voltage
 

84cucv1ton

Active member
1,822
0
36
Location
New Jersey
Could someone tell me on generator 2. The white plug that goes in the top of the alternator. Where can I find that Plug? Mine is melted. Can't seem to find plug anywhere. Was thinking about putting on Crimp connectors till I can find it. generator 1. The plug is Covered in some kind of black stuff. That will not come off. Don't even see metal. All you see is the black stuff. I generator 2. What is that white plug in the back for? This is my last day off. Hoping to have most of this done today. Thanks for the help
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
If they are stock alternators, yes. They are the same and can be swapped.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Yes, and you do not need to use it.

It helps keep "electrical noise" quiet on radio equipment installed in the truck.
 
Last edited:

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
If your asking because your swapping them, you can switch it over to the other alt and use it if you want to.

Both alternators actually have one inside as well.

It is a capacitor.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks