I'd have made a few snapshots, but I know if you are reading this forum you are probably pretty familiar with the fuse boxes on these vehicles and can grasp what I am saying in your mind's eye.
After changing out my turn signal lever and harness, I found a few other things that were causing trouble after my dicking-around under the dash and knocking stuff loose.
My headlights were not coming on- as noted when I realized there was no indicator on the dash to let me know my signals outside were on/off. I found a 30 amp fuse intact in the headlight slot of the fuse box. Replaced it (same one) but had only a brief success. Lights went out almost immediately. Pulled the fuse and had a close look. One "leg" was bubbled like the finish was delaminating. (yes, HFrt)
. I put another- same brand... A New Low, I'm so ashamed . It went out in minutes, but did not blow. It developed a burn from arcing in the 35 year old clamps. As you have probably witnessed, the plastic fuse case was melted around the area of the clamp, and there was no way to squeeze the clamp together as a solution to the flimsy fit of the fuse. Either the clamp was too loose or the blades were too thin. I broke out my soldering iron and tinned both sides of the blades. They naturally developed a high spot that sort of locks them against the clamp once they are fully seated. Good and tight. Bless you.
I'm no EE, but I figure the business end of the fuse that is meant to blow is still intact inside of the plastic case, I doubt the addition of solder is any different than changing the wiring on either end of a fuse from 10g to 12g.
I know there are other solutions, but this seems to work on those bad, getting worse fuse holders.
After changing out my turn signal lever and harness, I found a few other things that were causing trouble after my dicking-around under the dash and knocking stuff loose.
My headlights were not coming on- as noted when I realized there was no indicator on the dash to let me know my signals outside were on/off. I found a 30 amp fuse intact in the headlight slot of the fuse box. Replaced it (same one) but had only a brief success. Lights went out almost immediately. Pulled the fuse and had a close look. One "leg" was bubbled like the finish was delaminating. (yes, HFrt)
. I put another- same brand... A New Low, I'm so ashamed . It went out in minutes, but did not blow. It developed a burn from arcing in the 35 year old clamps. As you have probably witnessed, the plastic fuse case was melted around the area of the clamp, and there was no way to squeeze the clamp together as a solution to the flimsy fit of the fuse. Either the clamp was too loose or the blades were too thin. I broke out my soldering iron and tinned both sides of the blades. They naturally developed a high spot that sort of locks them against the clamp once they are fully seated. Good and tight. Bless you.I'm no EE, but I figure the business end of the fuse that is meant to blow is still intact inside of the plastic case, I doubt the addition of solder is any different than changing the wiring on either end of a fuse from 10g to 12g.
I know there are other solutions, but this seems to work on those bad, getting worse fuse holders.
