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G177 Tire Pressures?

rmgill

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What temperatures do folks suggest I run the G177 Radials I'm fitting to my Deuce?

I've looked at the tables and the rims seem to have a lower pressure range than the tire's recommended pressure does. 120PSI is what Goodyear lists. Should I run that or lower?
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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What DH posted is a very good starting point.

I have found though trial and error that 80 front and 65 rear on my M109 are the best pressures for THAT truck. You're best handling pressures might be different, as a 109 weighs more.
 

rosco

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120 PSI is way too much for that little truck. That pressure is for maximun load too, and you can never approach it, especially with duals. DH's chart for Highway is more appropriate, but you could expiriment a little and even go 10 to 15 psi lower respectively. The fronts will be more critical - don't get them to low for highway. Radials will have a bulge, at contact, but don't get them to where they feel mushy - they will wear too fast, and that is real expensive.
 

rmgill

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Trick is I'm going from Bias Ply to Radials and I'm aware that Radials are more sensitive to excessive flex in the tires. I guess that's also coupled to weight too BUT.....

I'm thinking about it more because one of the G177 take offs I have appears to have some minor signs of radial zipper warnings. There's two very slight undulations in the tire sidewall when at almost 120 psi. Since I'm not working with a cage in my back yard i'm being very cautious about this all (Staying out of the danger zone and using a chain wrapped around the tire is the best I can do).

I ran 90 front 60 rear with 1100x20 NDTs and that worked great.

I'm curious to see if I'll need to flip the shim in the front axle.
 

Ferroequinologist

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I did not have to flip the shim on the M109 and it tracks and rides great. I have read of many others that have had to though.

I love these tires on a deuce- 12k miles and they still look new!
 

doghead

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Ryan, have you read any of the discussions about not using thimbles alone, to hold a singled out wheel on?
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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I have not. Though I've gone rather far with them PA and back and quite a few other trips. What's the problem?
They are not designed as a stand alone fastener, the outer nut gives the thimble the solidness needed to grip the stud, without the outer nut, the only strength the thimble has is the centering ring at the end of the thimble.
 
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Location
Norfolk, VA
FYI: I've done a search of this (thimble vs front lug nut) in the past and it seems like the majority say just the bud nut is fine. I agree that if singled out the bud nut (thimble) should be changed. So yes the thimble works, but no it is not safe.

ETA: this is one of the discussions that wouldn't show up with search
 
Last edited:

doghead

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I'm pretty sure there are a few threads on this, with part number and lengths listed.
 

91W350

Well-known member
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Salina, Kansas
I ran 70 front and 45 rear on dual G-177s. I did not see any heating of tires or premature wear. I pulled them and went to Michelin XLs as they seem to pull better in our muddy yard. The Goodyears were a lot nicer to drive at slower speeds and I think they will out live the Michelins. We are running them on four of our road tractors now and they have been wonderful tires for hauling scrap iron and pulling loaders in soft soil. I think my deuce lacked the necessary weight to plant the tires in mud.

Editing to add that we have 5 gallon buckets full of lug nuts that we pulled off of trucks and 105 trailers.
 

Tow4

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It's the same nut as used on the front axle. Take one with you and match it up. Remember, there are left and right threads.
 
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