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G749 preservation

Gunfreak25

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See where you get your dashing good looks from there Dave. Tell Crazy Darrell I look forward to meeting him someday.
 

Robo McDuff

In memorial Ron - 73M819
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I was with the sand blasting company today and discussed the options. They were just busy finishing a truck they had bought as wreck for their own company and had done the same as you. Good live example. I showed them my pictures and asked about options and costs.

First estimate, just sand blasting and cold priming the truck without dump bed would come to about 600 $, much less than I always thought. Blasting and zinc treatment (galvanization) would come to double that amount. Zinc treatment means spraying a zinc primer onto the blasted steel under pressure with high heat. Imagine a torch cutter combined with a paint gun. They mentioned that such a treatment in the engine compartment is a bad idea, but it works for the frame. Probably sand blasting and some good layers of primer is sufficient and definitely less abrasive for the non-frame steel parts and wiring etc; applying this burning hot zinc would definitely cause damage to wiring and seals.

Thanks to your thread our strategy probably will be to let these guys do the truck without the dump bed. They charge per square meter, and the dump bed is relative simple to do and less essential but a lot of square meters extra. We will blast and prime the dump bed ourselves and probably let these guys apply the final paint on the truck and dump bed as well in one go. For what they charge and my lack of experience in spray painting it is worth the extra bucks.
 

m1010plowboy

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1674 miles

I sure could use one of them hard tops for my truck! Why is all the good stuff 1674 miles away!! And those M152s!!! I shall cry myself to sleep.. ;-)

Make a trip! Hard tops fit in the back of a pick-up truck and are off in less then an hour with two guys.

He wants $400.00 for a low quality top you remove and pick-up yourself......deep in the bush.

There was one in the classifieds not long ago, look around locally first or 4 tanks of fuel and you're here.
 

m1010plowboy

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Dedication

The desire to dedicate the build took it's first step today and a rusty ole' valvecover was dropped off at a local powdercoating shop.

The OD will go on and we will hand stencil some names of a few good men over the OD with white paint. Once complete a clear-coat will be powdered over the names to protect them for a few centuries. A sample piece was picked up today so we're going to try a few different paints then go through the clearing process.

If anyone has had experience with paint in a powder-coat/ clear-coat process, your in-put might save some steps.

The snow hit Edmonton today with 5" in the Whitecourt area just 100 miles north.

California never looked so good.
 

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m1010plowboy

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Metal Prep

let these guys do the truck without the dump bed.

A M2 charge is great when you look at the many frame/ cross member faces you have with a small surface area and lots of angles. As some of the more experienced builders have said, "Be careful not to over-restore". I'm told a box would typically have paint splashed on it with brushes as part of a PM service so even though a perfect box is desirable in the car show world..gigity..the MV World is a little more forgiving....for lack of a better term.

As a museum piece, I would need to spend a whole lot of MV time with some of the MV restore greats before attempting something like that.. It's a honorable undertaking that you've dove into it.... I'll enjoy following along so take lots of photos.

I wanted the box user friendly and bullet proof...or at least resistant. Even now, if I bring the truck home the neighbour's kids ask to use it as a play fort. With parents in tow we've had ten kids swingin' off the bows and protecting their Country.

I did blast the box purely out of good fortune and contributions. The floor was heavily pitted however it's purpose is supporting foot pounds not 5 ton of cargo.

With current technology spray on rust inhibitors, a good primer and a coat of paint will give you lots of protection.
 

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Stan Leschert

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The snow hit Edmonton today with 5" in the Whitecourt area just 100 miles north.

Snow? WTF ? We haven't had our first frost out here yet.

Rain is coming in,
but I have got the worst of the exterior stuff done on the MKT.

The M36A3 is due back from the movies tonight,
So now we just polish stuff up for Rememberance Day.
The M135 just wants a bath and the M105 is in need of everything!

We found the M105 Trailer Bow Corners, so as soon as I find a Snowbird heading to Yuma, Tom gets the M135 Bow Corners that you donated to me.

It just seems right! I am dumb enough to do this for fun, I would have no Idea what profit should be, only because someone would want to deduct my smiles from the invoice.

If I can get the MKT ready for Hot Dogs and CoCo for the cadets,
I will be way ahead of schedule. Once I sort the pics, they will be posted under - Working on the MKT-
 

Stan Leschert

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Stan man, what was your deadline again?
I have long since given up on deadlines. Which ever truck is ready for the parade will be in it. I have no qualms about red tagging a unit.

Ancilliary stuff like getting the nice to have items operational, is not a front line priority for me. BUT, we get it done at the first opportunity.

Tom, I might have a chance to get your goodie bag as far as Mesa. It all depends on the RSM, and how much the motorhome is loaded up.


Side note, Dave, you have a gear whine that I can't identify. When I get a chance, I'll shoot some footage of the pampered West Coast Beast on a run.

It's time to let the M135 streach her legs, and that long M36A3 is just a pain to use when parking the MKT. (Mind you, the extra ponies from the Clatterpiller, make the hauling so much less painfull!)


One of the TSN crew shot me an HD Mini Cam, so when I can put an operator into the companion seat I will post some footage ... other wise wait for Remeberance Day clips.

Should have 12 trucks on parade this year.


BTW, when I get the list, I will post which movies and TV shows that are motor pool is active in. The newer unit is getting the big work now, but our stuff is getting a reputation for just working!
First crank! NO FLAT DECKS for the ride home!
 
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Stan Leschert

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Side note:

If your in tank fuel pump on the M135 ever goes out, buy the rebuild kit .... if you can find it!

Otherwise, you CAN plumb an inline pump, but you MUST replace the fuel pick up foot.

It has got a built-in pressure relase passage, which will not allow an external unit to function for more than 200 Meters! Don't ask how I know.

If our wrench basher was not in the crew, this would have cost $1,200 just to figure out!
The hard to get pump kit was selling for $75 on E-Pay.
 
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Gunfreak25

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Roger Roger, what's our victor vector? Sorry, airplane fan.

Mesa, awesome man. I have a buddy in Phoenix who for a few cases of fat tire would be willing to store or pick the up for me. Also have aunt/uncle in Phoenix.

You can keep me posted via PM or give me a shout anytime. Going to PM you my number right now along with appropriate call times.
 

hendersond

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you CAN plumb an inline pump, but you MUST replace the fuel pick up foot.

It has got a built-in pressure relase passage, which will not allow an external unit to function for more than 200 Meters! Don't ask how I know..
Gee Stan, I wish you would have posted this earlier this summer. I probably would have put more that 4 miles on my truck this summer in 100' trips. :whistle:

By the way mine had one on the top fitting and one on the bottom fitting. If it had only 1, I would have had 200' trips.
 

Tplane37

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The desire to dedicate the build took it's first step today and a rusty ole' valvecover was dropped off at a local powdercoating shop today.

The OD will go on and we will hand stencil some names of a few good men over the OD with white paint. Once complete a clear-coat will be powdered over the names to protect them for a few centuries. A sample piece was picked up today so we're going to try a few different paints then go through the clearing process.

If anyone has had experience with paint in a powder-coat/ clear-coat process, your in-put might save some steps.

The snow hit Edmonton today with 5" in the Whitecourt area just 100 miles north.

California never looked so good.
If you are planning to powder coat over paint, you are going to have to use a paint that conducts electricity for the powder coat to properly adhere. My reccomendation would be to use a weld through primer and tint the primer to achieve your desired color (or close to it). Since you are most likely going to be dealing with a flat or low gloss tone, the primer may be sufficient for your base. Unless you know about some sort of weld through paint that I have never heard of (possible). The reasoning behind the conductivity feature being required it that powder coat achieves it's initial bond via a ground attached to the material, this "pulls" the powder coat into all the little pores in the metal and holds it there while baked on for the finished product.

Of course, this is all assuming that the same process is still used for powder coating that I used 10+ years ago. I do remember reading a few years back that some company had developed a system that used static electricity to bond the powder coat instead of a direct metal-to-metal ground clamp, and if that is the case, a regular paint might work under the powdered clear. I would check on the proceedure whomever you are using utilizes and take it from there. The above scenario is merely a potential solution for longevity, 95% of all quality work concerning paint and body repairs/customization lies in the planning and preparation. Everything else is just icing on the cake.
 
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m1010plowboy

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Powder on top of paint

Good call Tplane. You prompted me to make a call and.....they've gone for the day but I will dig some more info up.

Heat tolerant paint was what they mentioned and suggested "Endura" which is what the truck was painted with. They also seemed very relaxed about it and said they could cover just about any paint.

We have a sample going in next week so I'll tweet what works.
 

m1010plowboy

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Fuel supply pump G749

Side note:

If your in tank fuel pump on the M135 ever goes out, buy the rebuild kit .... if you can find it!

Otherwise, you CAN plumb an inline pump, but you MUST replace the fuel pick up foot.

It has got a built-in pressure relase passage, which will not allow an external unit to function for more than 200 Meters! Don't ask how I know.

If our wrench basher was not in the crew, this would have cost $1,200 just to figure out!
The hard to get pump kit was selling for $75 on E-Pay.
Stan, can you hustle up a name and possibly a part number for the pump that worked for you please.

The low pressure demand on the carb and knowing that alterations and plumbing "in-tank" is required will save a lot of grief for some of us.

Thank you, thank you very much. uh uh hmmmm uh hmmmm, I'm all shook up uh uh huh.
 

Stan Leschert

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Tom, I just taked with Regimental Sargeant Major Ron Snellgrove. He said that he would be happy to get your box of parts to Mesa Az. He is going down for a little bit of desert warmth!

If you get the chance, pop up to meet him. Cool guy!

So you can now say that your project has had assistance from the Canadian Forces!

I will PM you his contact details, later tonight.

You owe me nothing, as Digger Dave gave me the parts, I don't need them ... you do!

Christmas comes early!

Are there any TM's that you don't have?
If I have them, now is the time to burn a CD and put it in the box.
It isn't often that I can get free shipping to you.

Cheers. Stan.

Sorry for the thread Hi-Jack, Dave,
but I thought that you should be included in this exchange.
 

Gunfreak25

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Much obliged my good friend, the "ROYAL CANADIAN LEGION" will be appearing on the list of acknowledgements that will accompany the truck at all events. And as for specific forum members who have shipped numerous parts my way at no cost, I will simply put down "Steel Soldiers Forum Community" instead of listing individual names, there is not enough paper in the world to list you all!
 

m1010plowboy

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A M Pump G749

No problemo Stan Leschart o,

Now you just get us a pump number and maybe a pic/description of your fuel set up.....we'll forget about everything.......no really, we'll forget.:shock:
 

Stan Leschert

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Bar code and data tag posted. Remove the power connections from your in tank pump, and tag into the replacement pump. Get an in tank filter from a large chain saw or ride on mower to use as a pick up feed.
The original pick up is designed for a preassure fed system,
not a suction based system, and simply will not work for this set up!

Suction filter, 24V pump and then secondary filters.

If you can find the in tank rebuild kit (last seen on E-Pay) at $65, I would highly recommend it. Much less work, and unless you always run the truck out of fuel, it should be good for another 50 years!

If not, you can do what we had to do, to get the unit operational. Your choice, I know now what I would do.... if...
 

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