Gauges: Tach, temp, and others. Recommendations?

[llong66]

they do have a diesel tach that uses the alt signal, but if its outside of what you wana pay it doesnt matter.

http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR4-TACH-06-HTZ/1/Diesel-Tachometer-Gauge-4K-RPM-Shift-light

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

That's pretty nice! I like the customization options.

If they had it in a smaller size, I'd be really, really tempted. But I don't think I want a 4" gauge. I don't know where I'd put it!

I'm hoping to find something small enough to fit either just to the left of the steering column, or better yet, to the left of it in the blank where the radio would go on a civvy truck. I'd like a matching tach, water temp, and oil pressure gauge there.

For the voltmeter, I think I've settled on a couple of cheap digital displays, mounted to the left of the stock 24v meter.

Like this or this. Or maybe go with dual function volt/amp meters, one for each battery. Like this one, though that's probably too big for two of them.

 

[tim292stro]

...Like this or this. Or maybe go with dual function volt/amp meters, one for each battery. Like this one, though that's probably too big for two of them...

The dual function one you linked is 2.7" Wide x 2.1" high X 0.4" deep - the second single function one you linked is actually bigger at 4.9" wide x 2" high x 0.3" deep. If those values are accurate, you could just about fit two of those dual function meters in the space of one of the single function meters. One of the other things you will want to check is how readable they are in sunlight and darkness.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Yeah, I hadn't looked at the dimensions before I posted that. Those are WAY too big. I did see some that were more like 1 1/2" x 3/4", which would work next to the stock voltmeter.

 

[amphi]

Greetings MarcusOReallyus,

You might consider two Hall-Effect ammeters in place of OR in addition to the volt meters. Like this:

http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=988

http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/ME-SP230_Ver1.0_EN.pdf

These can be used to sense and indicate the output current of each alternator independently.

They use open-loop current sensors where a wire is simply routed through the loop. There is no electrical connection at the current source thereby eliminating any possible 12-24 volt ground conflict. The gauge portion can be powered with 12v or 24v as the gauge supply rating is 9-26 volts.

Even though the alts are rated at 100 amp, the 70 amp current rating should be adequate under normal circumstances for alt charging and load current. Not sure what would happen if one were to exceed 70 amps but I think the 12 gauge fusible link would blow at 70 amps. Might be a gauge limitation.

A pair of these wired to indicate alternator output in amps would be very revealing. Even more so with volt meters.

Maybe I'm missing something but If I owned a CUCV I would consider installing a pair of these.

Hope this helps
Cheers
Gary

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Even though the alts are rated at 100 amp, the 70 amp current rating should be adequate under normal circumstances for alt charging and load current. Not sure what would happen if one were to exceed 70 amps but I think the 12 gauge fusible link would blow at 70 amps. Might be a gauge limitation.

Hmmm. I thought so too, at first, but reading the specs I found a note that stressed not to exceed 77A, and that the device is for "small current only". Page 8.


Nice units, but I don't think I'd want to use them on a system rated at 100A.

 

[Larch]

truck1, do you have a picture of where you installed your tiny tach?

 

[richingalveston]

I changed to a civy cluster which gave me the oil pressure and water temp gauges. I bought a tach from LMC and a small fuel gauge where I installed the small fuel gauge in the empty spot of the cluster and replaced the large fuel gauge with a large tach. The tach runs of a Dakota Digital DS-1 module which does need another timing source to adjust the tach. I also moved my cucv gauge to the civy cluster where the 12 volt meter was located. It took some customization to do this. I also changed all of the dash lights to red LED. you cannot dim them but they do not need it. the red is easy on the eyes.

you could leave the civy 12 volt gauge in place and use it as the 12volt meter you want. I am fine with the 24volt. If it is not reading right, it is not that hard to stop, open the hood and diagnose which alt is going bad or has a belt problem.

 

[Ridgeback]

truck1, do you have a picture of where you installed your tiny tach?

Ditto - I too would like to see how this setup works (from the IP to the dash)! I'm swapping in a 4L80E trans and will eventually turbo my 6.2, so a tach to monitor it seems like a good thing to have...and this setup looks to fit my need/budget.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Well, I pulled the trigger on a $60 eBay find. A Motorola 12v or 24v diesel tach, NOS. Senses from the alternator. It will be more work to get it running than a TinyTach, but it will give me the analog tach that I want, and it's an hour meter, too. Not that that is a big deal!





I also found what seems to be a good source for other gauges & odd 'n ends. Some great prices, and some merely good prices. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Gauges/Automotive-Gauges/

Found good deals on relays there, too! I plan to order a few things, and I'll post back when I see what kind of quality I get from them.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Cool thing about an alternator driven tach is now if you add a cable driven tach, you can monitor alternator slip as well as convertor lockup.

 

[truck1]

As requested, pics of my Tiny Tach installation. The TinyTach transducer attaches to # 1 injector line . It is powered up at the fuse box under the dash to an accessory ignition slot. The digital display I mounted left of the steering column on the dash with two sheetmetal screws. VERY simple install if you follow Tiny Tachs direction sheet. Works great . Make sure you order the diesel tach.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Very nice. That's a pretty cool concept too, using the fuel pulse to drive the tach. If they had it in an analog version, I'd have grabbed one.


I see a couple of other gauges down there next to the diagnostic port. Temp & oil pressure? What make?

 

[Skinny]

I originally wanted to do a full gauge set up using either military gauges (M998 style) or aircraft. Of course we all know how accurate military gauges are and the aircraft ones can be pricey. I'm thinking back to basics with a simple oil pressure and temp down by the diagnostic port to keep it clean and simple. Maybe add a tiny tach just like yours Truck 1. Maybe some simple VDO black gauges fit the bill. I would go mechanical but I don't like the idea of hot oil and coolant coming into my cab near my leg or crotch

 

[truck1]

My temp and oil gauges are VDO brand . The temp gauge is your standard fittings on the block with copper wire to the gauge. The oil gauge is electric via a sending unit. I also don't like the idea of hot oil running through the cab . They work just fine .

 

[tim292stro]

...I also don't like the idea of hot oil running through the cab...

I agree, so use a "process isolator" for anything you don't want in the cab:

Mechanical Gauges:

• Pressure: diaphragm or piston isolator, using incompressible/inert glycol in the cab
• Vacuum: diaphragm or piston isolator, using incompressible/inert glycol in the cab
• Temperature: longest capillary bulb you can get, and insulation - or use a thermocouple type gauge (milivolt self-powered from process)
• Voltage: Small gauge wire on a Kelvin measurement setup across the target (only the current required for the measurement goes through the wires)
• Current: Small gauge wire on a Kelvin measurement setup across a shunt on the target (only the current required for the measurement goes through the wires)

Electronic Gauges:

• Use matched senders with individual gauges

OR

• Use CAN-Bus sender with CAN-Bus cluster

In the links above I am not affiliated with Mallory, Summit Racing, or Wikipedia - simple Google search returned those results.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Well, my NOS Motorola tach arrived today. It's bigger than I thought! It's going to take some serious thimkin to find a good place for it. Nice looking unit, though.

 

[Skinny]

Be sure to post up install specs, different tach installs are nice when comparing what to buy.

Tim, you should be ashamed of yourself for suggesting a CAN Bus installation for gauges in a Cuck Vee. What next, a DB4 injection pump swap on a NA 6.2??? The TM's mention nothing of a code reader for engine diag

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Be sure to post up install specs, different tach installs are nice when comparing what to buy.

Will do. I'm out of town next weekend, so it will be a while before I get to it.

 

[tim292stro]

...Tim, you should be ashamed of yourself for suggesting a CAN Bus installation for gauges in a Cuck Vee. What next, a DB4 injection pump swap on a NA 6.2??? The TM's mention nothing of a code reader for engine diag ...

Ha - I was saying isolate hot oil, flammable fuel, and air pressure from the cabin - and CAN-bus only assumes you have CAN instruments...

What, you don't run your 6.2's injection pump with a Sun SPARC station? How are you supposed to turn on the windshield wipers without sending a text with your iPhony?