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Gear vendors and drive train loading

bshupe

New member
440
4
0
Location
Mount Vernon, WA
I don't know much about the 205.

As to converter lockup, when the solenoid inside the trans has 12v and ground, it locks up. You can manipulate either side of that equation to control when lockup occurs. On mine, power is always there and I interrupt ground. I have a three position switch on my dash. One position grounds, locking the converter regardless of gear (the trans won't lock in 1st). Second position cuts ground so no lock up. Third position is routed through a 4th gear pressure switch inside the trans. When it shifts into 4th the pressure switch closes proving a ground and lockup occurs. Normal driving I just leave it in this last position and I get auto lockup in overdrive. When towing or heavily loaded I manually lock it in the lower gears to eliminate converter slippage and heat build up.
I would imagine there is someplace you can go to get the wiring schematic for the trans so you can wire that up?
 

cliffyp

Member
328
3
18
Location
Brownsville, Texas
The service manual does plus a million google results if you search 700r4 lockup wiring. There's only two wires that come off the solenoid, not complex wiring. There a few options like pressure switch placement or temp sensors so you won't lockup until reaching operating temp. You can go as simple as two wires and switch on your dash and just manually lock and unlock as desired. Actually some people go simpler and skip the switch and just leave it always locked or always unlocked. I find auto lockup very nice for DD.
 

usmcgunner

New member
55
0
0
Location
Warrenton, VA
bshupe,

I just had the GV installed in my 1008. Combined with a new vac modulator, there is an incredible difference. Took my second trip out today and did it on the highway (first trip was back roads and "normal" speeds). I was very surprised and happy. I looked down at one point realizing I was moving with traffic for once and saw that I was doing 75 mph on stock tires. I don't have a tach installed yet, but it sounded like a 45-50 mph engine speed. The shifting feels smooth and normal. I don't have all the tech knowledge that some are sharing, but I can provide first hand input. I looked into a trans swap. Since I'm no where near a mechanic, much less a trans tech, I'd have to have someone do it. I wanted to avoid electronics, so the 4l80 was out. And when the numbers got crunched, a complete 700r4 swap was just a few hundred shy of the GV unit. I know there are many that will argue a 700 is plenty strong, and I'm not trying to debate that here. But after all the HD internals to get it strong enough for the towing I plan on and the fabrication (if a TV bracket can't be found) and the changing of shafts on this and that, the price really crept up. The big determining factor was when my trans guy said, he could and would do it, but he wouldn't warranty it. He had, however, no hesitation in saying he'd stand behind the GV installation. I'm not trying to sell you, but I highly recommend doing your research in the total cost; especially if you have to have a trans shop do it.
 
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Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,313
113
Location
Schertz TX
I can get a 4L80e core for $250. With the Baumann controller at $600 and an overhaul kit for $250, I am right at $1100 plus a week of my time. The install will require minor machining of the adapter plus engine mounts to move the engine forward 1-1/2" (DIY fabrication). So I plan on $1600 for the 4L80e swap. No way a GV can be had for that.

The locking TC makes it well worth it. The programmable shifting is also a plus. And no compromises with strength as the 4L80 is just the next generation TH400.
 

jsgmdiesel

New member
23
0
0
Location
MN
I agree with usmcgunner. I installed a GV 3 months ago and it was worth every penny. I can split three gears, shifting is firm and as seamless as the Allison auto in my dads Duramax. The 400 and GV can both handle tremendous amounts of hp, way more than a 6.2 can produce. As mentioned by others the install is easy with no special tools required. I'd like to have someone chime in that has done the 4l80E post $ numbers. Keith not saying you are wrong but any time you need to fabricate and DIY anything it always costs double what you estimate. Been there done that.
 

usmcgunner

New member
55
0
0
Location
Warrenton, VA
Yeah, don't get me wrong, I envy the guy who can tear apart a transmission and rebuild it perfectly with a 6 pack in them. And then turn around and weld up cross members and such. And I'd love to learn. But I just don't have the time to invest to get there.....yet. When I do, my position might be different. But from the harry-homeowner/shade tree mechanic perspective, the 500-800 dollars in savings between a 700r4 or 4l80 vs. the GV unit is well worth having a pro do it and be able to go back to that pro if there's a problem.

bshupe, a far as the 205 transfer case, check out GV's website. They have just about every option listed. And if it isn't, they can make it. On mine, I had them do a fixed yoke. Since most CUCV driveshafts are bent from GL using forklifts, I planned on a new shaft anyway. Had a local shop build an inline shaft for about 350 bucks. Another source of vibration gone.
 

U1100L

Member
64
4
8
Location
littleton ma
Got the GV's for my 1031. needed to swap out the 205 output shaft to a fixed. Nonexistant!! Those are like gold now. Alot like the coolant crossover on the 6.2

Upgraded ring and pinions in the 416 Mog, twice as much but a different story.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
811
113
Location
Virginia
Since most CUCV driveshafts are bent from GL using forklifts, I planned on a new shaft anyway. Had a local shop build an inline shaft for about 350 bucks. Another source of vibration gone.

Yeah, and it's not just a source of annoying vibration, it's a source of transmission destroying vibration.

Driveshafts are a lot cheaper than transmissions.
 

Dave Kay

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
499
29
28
Location
Kingman AZ
For a fact I have an M1008 bone stock everything with 236/85-16 tires and my GV unit gives me 55-60 MPH @ 2150 to 2300 RPM's. At 2450 RPM GV gets me 65MPH but feels like engine no-likey too much.

Average MPG combined city/highway is a solid 17-18 MPG. Trade-off; Life in the slow lane and mucho-enjoyment of road-side scenery. No doubt I am looking for taller tires.

Meanwhile... If this copy/paste works maybe this will shed some light on the potential of GV unit. Source GV's website. Cheers:beer:



700R4/4L60E 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE
Axle Ratio4.884.564.103.733.423.23
Trans RatioFinal Drive Ratio
1st3.0614.9313.9512.5511.4110.479.88
Over2.3911.6410.889.798.908.177.71
2nd1.637.957.436.686.085.575.26
Over1.276.205.805.214.744.344.10
3rd1.004.884.564.103.733.423.23
Over0.783.813.563.202.912.672.52
4th GM O/D0.703.423.192.872.612.392.26
Double OD*0.552.672.492.242.041.861.76
*Note: Double Overdrive not to be used when towing or loaded.

4L80E 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE
Axle Ratio5.134.884.634.564.103.733.42
Trans RatioFinal Drive Ratio
1st2.4812.7212.1011.4811.3110.179.258.48
Over1.939.929.448.958.827.937.226.60
2nd1.487.597.226.856.756.075.525.06
Over1.155.925.635.345.274.734.313.95
3rd1.005.134.884.634.564.103.733.42
Over0.784.003.813.613.563.202.912.67
4th GM O/D0.753.853.663.473.423.082.802.57
Double OD*0.593.002.852.712.672.402.182.00



TH350 3-SPEED AUTOMATIC
Axle Ratio4.564.103.733.553.423.08
Trans RatioFinal Drive Ratio
1st2.5211.4910.339.408.958.627.76
Over1.978.968.067.336.986.726.05
2nd1.526.936.235.675.405.204.68
Over1.195.414.864.424.204.063.65
3rd1.004.564.103.733.553.423.08
Over0.783.563.202.912.772.672.40

TH375/400/475 3-SPEED AUTOMATIC
Axle Ratio4.884.564.103.733.553.42
Trans RatioFinal Drive Ratio
1st2.4812.1011.3110.179.258.808.48
Over1.939.448.827.937.226.856.60
2nd1.487.226.756.075.525.255.06
Over1.155.635.274.734.314.093.95
3rd1.004.884.564.103.733.553.42
Over0.783.813.563.202.912.772.67
 
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