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Geared Hub drain, inspect and fill. How to?

Bulldogger

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I've searched and can't find specifics on this on the forum. I haven't settled my mind yet as to whether it's possible to drain and fill the hubs with the wheels on the HMMWV.
I'm working my way through the LO and it isn't clear to me in looking at the illustrations in the LO and TM if it's possible to drain and fill without pulling the wheels.

I'm hoping I can let the oil tell me if there is anything wrong so I don't have to yank the 155# wheels off to do an open and inspect.

Two questions:
1) Is it feasible to drain and refill the hubs with the wheels still on?
2) Anyone have experience on whether the removed oil (and looking in the drain hole w an inspection camera) will tell me enough to make an informed decision about having to (or not to) open the hub?

Thanks!
Bulldogger
 

TwoStates

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Location
Texas
I was not comfortable driving mine until I inspected it.

1) I pulled all the wheels off (one at a time) and drained the hub oil.

2) I then removed the hub backplate and inspected the spindle and spindle nut to ensure that the nut was properly attached and that the lock washer was still holding everything like it was supposed to.

3) Then I put some sealant on the hub backplate and put it back together.

4) Finally, I put new oil back in the hub and reinstalled the wheels.

I would have gladly paid someone to service my HMMWV, but I couldn't find a competent mechanic to work on it locally. I still need to find someone to remove some of the shims that affect the camber alignment, but I doubt I'll ever find someone willing to do it.
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
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Location
Essex, Maryland
I've searched and can't find specifics on this on the forum. I haven't settled my mind yet as to whether it's possible to drain and fill the hubs with the wheels on the HMMWV.
I'm working my way through the LO and it isn't clear to me in looking at the illustrations in the LO and TM if it's possible to drain and fill without pulling the wheels.

I'm hoping I can let the oil tell me if there is anything wrong so I don't have to yank the 155# wheels off to do an open and inspect.

Two questions:
1) Is it feasible to drain and refill the hubs with the wheels still on?
2) Anyone have experience on whether the removed oil (and looking in the drain hole w an inspection camera) will tell me enough to make an informed decision about having to (or not to) open the hub?

Thanks!
Bulldogger
I'd do the work and remove the rear cover, you dont want your spindle coming out and flying down the road. I dont know if its absolutely necessary to remove the wheels to get at the plugs, I never tried with them on, but I can tell you it wouldn't be easy and it would be quicker to just take the wheel off.
 

Mike82ndABN

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If you haven't bought one yet, an impact gun will come in handy for removing the lug nuts. It makes doing routine maintenance go so much easier. If you aren't ready to get into air tools, you can find decent electric ones, I have a corded milwaukee that has been awesome so far.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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FWIW, if the truck went through reset, the spindle nuts were changed out to the new style...another tell tale sign is red RTV on the steering arm cover....I really only encounter the old single tab spindle nuts on the 99 auction trucks.
the newer 2 tab nut was an MWO and was required to be applied to all trucks in the inventory.
taking the tire off is not very hard, the weight makes no difference, I have MRAP tires on my bobbed deuce,l do them by my self....they are 500LBS ea.
Just jack the truck up till the tire is approx an 1/8-1-4in of the ground, take the nuts off, wiggle it off...same as going back on. Use a breaker bar to lift shimmy it back on. You very well may not get the GH plugs off if they are frozen and over tightened...use a torch to preheat them for a 20secs...they will come right off.
 

dayabe

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Waimea, Hi
The best way I found was to pull the wheel off, remove the plate to drain and check the lock washer so the nut won't spinoff. Put the plate back on with some sealant Refill the hub with Lucas Hub Oil from the wheel side nut that takes a 3/8 extension too remove. When the oil starts to pour out of the hole your filling your done, put the nut back on. Lucas hub oil is the best oil you can use prevents seal leaks.
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
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Location
Brentwood, Calif
The best way I found was to pull the wheel off, remove the plate to drain and check the lock washer so the nut won't spinoff. Put the plate back on with some sealant Refill the hub with Lucas Hub Oil from the wheel side nut that takes a 3/8 extension too remove. When the oil starts to pour out of the hole your filling your done, put the nut back on. Lucas hub oil is the best oil you can use prevents seal leaks.
i can't say I recommend filling the hub through half shaft bolt access hole is the right thing to do...that's is why there is a fill plug on the hub plate, and it only gets filled to the bottom of the fill plug.
you are also leaving a lot of old fluid in the hub by not draining from the drain plug.
also, if your filling up to the half shaft hole, your asking for over pressure problems and fluid entering your vents.
the hub only takes a pint....follow the tm's.
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
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Brentwood, Calif
Let me add something for the newbs, this lock washer everyone refers too is not the problem, it's the fact that they went from a single bent tab to secure the spindle nut to a spindle nut that has 2 tabs bent over to secure the nut....so just checking will do you no good unless you know what to look for...that too is in the TM, there is a pic of the old and new setup
 
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Bulldogger

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Quantico VA
My thanks to all for the tips and inputs. I will open my TM and see if I can figure out which spindle nuts I have to start with. But it sounds like I am taking off the wheels.
Bulldogger
 

Predator42

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Pleasant Grove Utah
Ironically I wasn't able to spend much time on the forum yesterday evening because I was changing out all the oil in my hubs. While my wheels were off the vehicle I took the opportunity to paint them. quick tip: Use an old deck of playing cards as a paint barrier to get a nice crisp line and not spray your tires. I also took the time to rotate the fronts to the back and backs to the front.

IMG_1354.jpgIMG_1361.jpgIMG_1369.jpgIMG_1374.jpg
 
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Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Va
Ironically I wasn't able to spend much time on the forum yesterday evening because I was changing out all the oil in my hubs. While my wheels were off the vehicle I took the opportunity to paint them. quick tip: Use an old deck of playing cards as a paint barrier to get a nice crisp line and not spray your tires. I also took the time to rotate the fronts to the back and backs to the front.
Howdy,
Nah, paint away. pressure wash the rubber and ya good to go. 8)
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
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Newberry, Florida
Ironically I wasn't able to spend much time on the forum yesterday evening because I was changing out all the oil in my hubs. While my wheels were off the vehicle I took the opportunity to paint them. quick tip: Use an old deck of playing cards as a paint barrier to get a nice crisp line and not spray your tires. I also took the time to rotate the fronts to the back and backs to the front.

View attachment 625970View attachment 625971View attachment 625972View attachment 625973
GREAT IDEA now I finally have a use for the 8 zillion pokemon cards my son has in the bottom of his closet! lol
 
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