Geared hub input seal

[galaxie428]

Hello all,

One of my input seals on my M998 geared hub started leaking a few weeks ago. I got new seals and shim gaskets and worked on it this past weekend. Unless I am missing it somewhere in the TM, I can't find anything that states how far the seal should be pressed in. My other one was about .098 deeper than the face of the hub. So, I did this one about the same. I put it all back together and it still leaks with the new seal. Anyone have any idea how this seal should be seated? Thanks.

 

[osteo16]

Theres not much fluid up that high in the hub.. wondering why your leaking so bad..

 

[Mogman]

If you used the correct seal driver it would have driven the seal flush.
The shims set the clearance (play) on the pinion bearings and normally should not be disturbed unless rebuilding the hub, removing that flange is not necessary when replacing the seal

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

If you used the correct seal driver it would have driven the seal flush.
The shims set the clearance (play) on the pinion bearings and normally should not be disturbed unless rebuilding the hub, removing that flange is not necessary when replacing the seal

The “correct” seal driver actually recesses the seal…

 

[osteo16]

Can you determine if its leaking from inner or outter area? I use aviation sealer on the outter surface of my seals.. A biotch getting out, but no leaks there..

 

[TNDRIVER]

Hello all,

One of my input seals on my M998 geared hub started leaking a few weeks ago. I got new seals and shim gaskets and worked on it this past weekend. Unless I am missing it somewhere in the TM, I can't find anything that states how far the seal should be pressed in. My other one was about .098 deeper than the face of the hub. So, I did this one about the same. I put it all back together and it still leaks with the new seal. Anyone have any idea how this seal should be seated? Thanks.

Were the shafts under the seal in good shape??? The OEM seals have two lips on them that had collected water and corroded two shafts on one of my trucks. These can be repaired (and I use that term lightly) with a speedy sleeve. But be advised, this spot with the corrosion "might" develop into a stress point weakening the shaft , but much cheaper than a shaft. I intend to replace one shaft and sleeve the other this winter, or in the spring.... or maybe summer........ Parts house seals purchased locally only have one lip on the seal, for what that's worth. Just my two cents.

 

[galaxie428]

Can you determine if its leaking from inner or outter area? I use aviation sealer on the outter surface of my seals.. A biotch getting out, but no leaks there..

Not sure. I'll try to take a look this weekend and see if I can tell but from what I can remember, there is a small flange that goes around the half shaft that might block being able to see anything there.

Were the shafts under the seal in good shape???

The shaft looked good. I did not notice a dual lip on the seal I took out but I don't think I threw it away yet so I'll look at it again. The new seal definitely did not have a dual lip unless I don't understand what you mean by dual lip? I assume you mean the part of the seal that seals against the shaft?

 

[TNDRIVER]

Not sure. I'll try to take a look this weekend and see if I can tell but from what I can remember, there is a small flange that goes around the half shaft that might block being able to see anything there.



The shaft looked good. I did not notice a dual lip on the seal I took out but I don't think I threw it away yet so I'll look at it again. The new seal definitely did not have a dual lip unless I don't understand what you mean by dual lip? I assume you mean the part of the seal that seals against the shaft?

The industry may call it a "mud ring or mud lip", if you compare a 5590745 beside a 19832 you will see the difference. My hat is off to you, you apparently have tools and are not afraid to use them. You get to try a second time, no big deal, all of us have had to revisit a repair 1 or 2 times...... maybe 3, but I plead the 5th! I could write a book about wheel and axle seal failures by high dollar shops. The "good" seal sets you back about $15 bucks. Good luck the second time.