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Geared Hubs

Stonewall

Member
191
2
18
Location
Peoria, IL
I am planning on putting new seals (input and spindle) on the geared hubs. I have read the TM and this appears to be a pretty straight forward project. But a lot of things seem straight forward until you get into them. I do see that there is a special tool required to remove the nut on when working on the spindle seal. is this necessary (if so where do I get one) and if not what is the work around. I am pretty mechanical and do all the typical maintenance on my vehicles (brakes, bearings, u-joints, diff seals, etc..) anything I need to watch out for? A local truck shop has done some for a few of my friends, but they figure about $750 parts and labor. My pockets are not that deep.

If there is a thread somewhere about this, please point me to it. I did a forum search, but did not come up with anything specific to the Geared Hubs.

Also, any information on the part numbers that can be picked up readily at a local auto parts store would be nice. I would also happily accept an education on using the p/n out of the TM and finding a conversion to auto parts store part numbers.
 

Stonewall

Member
191
2
18
Location
Peoria, IL
I definitely gave all the tm and part lists on my computer and have looked them over. I also have seen that link. I think I will just dig into it and see what happens.
 

ClarkeF

Member
206
5
18
Location
Hestand, KY
Try this site, pretty straight forward. The input seals are the easiest. The output seals/shaft will be abit more challenging and DO follow the locktite instructions! Good luck!
http://www.flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/GearedHub/sealreplace/sealReplace.htm
Those instructions will probably not work exactly for the HMMWV. The question is what style spindle seal does the truck have. There are three different spindle locking methods that have been used. This is one thing you do NOT want to mess up as your likely indication is your 150 wheel passing you on the road as you come to a stop in a shower of sparks from your geared hub sliding on the pavement. You do not want to reuse the locking bolt - even with loctite as the risk is too high. Get a new bolt, with factory applied Loctite for that clamp nut. You will also need anaerobic sealant, a 3/8" torque wrench good for 25-40lbs, a small inch rated torque wrench for locking bolt (if you have that style retainer).

Early HMMWV's came with a single tab lock. Those were replaced with the locking bolt clamp nut described at the link above. Those have since been replaced on the HMMWV's with a double tab lock. Different tools needed between the two.

Frankly, I would just replace whatever is there with the bluehummer.com re-usable locking spindle shaft kit. Not cheap at $75 a axle, but the security of knowing your wheel will stay attach to the truck is worth it.
 
Last edited:

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,261
3,874
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
The newer type MWO spindle nut lock washers are just fine...when done right. The clamp nut is PITA.
I mod a lot of H1's in the shop with military spindle nut lock washers.
 

Stonewall

Member
191
2
18
Location
Peoria, IL
Retiredwarhorse

Thanks for the advice. I will get into it and see what I have for sure. Most likely go with new seal kit and spindle nut kit as you suggest from bluehummer.
 

ClarkeF

Member
206
5
18
Location
Hestand, KY
Post a picture of what you have when you open it up. The latest locking tab kit is fine as RWH says. I prefer the kit from Blue Hummer since I -know- it won't come off. The nut is a pain and are different sizes depending on which system is currently installed. Don't expect to finish it the day you open it up unless you get new locking setup and the tools in advance.

Also note the orientation and order the spindle parts come out in. The pictures in the TM don't quite match what you see in person.
 
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