Gen 1 Gen 2 V belts

[cucvrus]

58-1/8 Inch

1476.375 mm for our Metric friends. Thank you.

 

[joshuak]

Even with the Gen 2 belt water tight. I get a weak sounding drone squeal after start up. It makes the sound only during the cycling of the glow plugs in the after glow cycle. It will do it very faintly for the first minute and then it's gone. I have my CUCV hooked up stock in all ways. I know when the resistors are by passed that eliminates the after glow cycling of the glow plugs. Just an observation. Charge rate is normal and vehicle starts and runs great. Just a slight load on Gen 2 after cold start.

Would you mind elaborating please?

I would think that glow and afterglow is controlled by the GP card, in conjunction with the temp sender, not the resistors. I may be mistaken.

 

[cucvrus]

I don't have a clue. Other then when the resistors are by passed it effects the cycling after glow of the glow plug system. I am not an electrician and never had any out of the ordinary maintenance problems with the glow plugs system as it is and was from new. So I only maintained it that way. I did buy a few CUCV's that had push buttons, toggle switches and bypasses and still started poorly. Once I removed all the gadgets and switches and returned it to TM OEM spec's the problem went away. Each one had it's original failure still present that triggered the hacking but still not repaired so someone bypassed the system. I still have a GM card in the one I am describing. Probably never even removed it. I do have some new cards that I bought here on this site. And a few New Genuine GM cards. Haven't needed any lately. I think something is reading voltage that has to do with the resistors. But what do I know. I pick things up and put them down all day. Have a good one. Let the scientific electrical people elaborate further. Someone????

 

[firefox]

Usually when you bypass the resistors, the current is drawn from the 12 volt bus on the
firewall. This may account for the load dicrepancies.

 

[Bighorn]

I don't have a clue. Other then when the resistors are by passed it effects the cycling after glow of the glow plug system. I am not an electrician and never had any out of the ordinary maintenance problems with the glow plugs system as it is and was from new. So I only maintained it that way. I did buy a few CUCV's that had push buttons, toggle switches and bypasses and still started poorly. Once I removed all the gadgets and switches and returned it to TM OEM spec's the problem went away. Each one had it's original failure still present that triggered the hacking but still not repaired so someone bypassed the system. I still have a GM card in the one I am describing. Probably never even removed it. I do have some new cards that I bought here on this site. And a few New Genuine GM cards. Haven't needed any lately. I think something is reading voltage that has to do with the resistors. But what do I know. I pick things up and put them down all day. Have a good one. Let the scientific electrical people elaborate further. Someone????

Yep.
I just installed a resistor pack to convert my M1009 BACK to stock.
Had this exact experience yesterday.
Suddenly, without any changes to the GP system other than putting the stock resistors back in, my GP system has afterglow a few times that it did not before.
Yep, the GP card should not know the difference.. but it does.
I notice the clunk of the relay is louder even though it is controlled by the same 12 volt glow plug card; it makes a different sound when the resistors are in the circuit.
The volt meter drops further too.
It went well down below 24 where as on 12 volts the voltmeter barely registered a difference while on glow.
I measured 8 volts to the glow plugs (at the GP relay under full load) during a glow cycle.

By the way.. starts instantly now within 1 revolution of the crankshaft at 28 degrees F outside.
On 12 volts it took a few revolutions to fire up.

 

[cucvrus]

Imagine that. GM may have been onto something. And 30 years ago? That really blew my mind. Have a great day. I agree. I have a few spare resistors. I bought everyone I ever seen. Because 20 years ago I was told they went bad all the time. Still have the large stock pile. Maybe.

 

[Holgi]

No I never meant anyone specific. Just saying a few of the things you try are not going to be right for others. And when they try your ideas they never work either. You done nothing wrong. I am glad your belts work for you and hope everyone finds things that work for them. They are not mine so I can only suggest and offer to help. You did nothing wrong. Have fun.

Ok, then I'm reassured.I thought I was you somehow stepped on the feet.

 

[cucvrus]

I have steel toed boots. I get my toes stepped on so often. I don't even take notice anymore. Wears the leather thru now. I guess it is tough with the language barrier. You are all good. No problems here. I enjoyed your posts so far. It is great that you have a CUCV in Germany. I see a facebook page from Germany about CUCV and Chevrolet trucks. I am a member. Quite a few CUCV pages on facebook. Take care enjoy. Keep your V belts tight and dry.

 

[Holgi]

When I plug; Gates XL 11A1460 into Google search, I get Gates belt 7575.
When I search Gates 75 belt, there is an A75 belt.

I know.
The belts are sold here in Germany with this designation.
Important is actually only the designation XL 11A1460.
At least in Germany.
I suppose it will be the same in the USA?

 

[Holgi]

1476.375 mm for our Metric friends. Thank you.

Well calculated.

 

[cucvrus]

Well calculated.

I cheated. I googled it. Betrüger

 

[Holgi]

I have steel toed boots. I get my toes stepped on so often. I don't even take notice anymore. Wears the leather thru now.

I guess it is tough with the language barrier.

Yes you are right.

You are all good. No problems here. I enjoyed your posts so far. It is great that you have a CUCV in Germany.

Thank you.

Take care enjoy. Keep your V belts tight and dry.

Yes, I will do that.

I cheated. I googled it. Betrüger

 

[doghead]

My truck still functions as it should with "after glow", with the Glowplug relay resupplied with 12 volts.

Maybe antennaclimber can help us understand this phenomena.

 

[antennaclimber]

The after glow period is based on the GP temperature sensor resistance and the voltage on the orange GP voltage sense input.

If the engine is cold the resistance is high, as the engine temp increases the resistance gets lower and the card will not need to perform as long of an after glow.

If the voltage is higher than designed on the GP voltage sense wire, the card will cycle the GP relay to limit the possibility of damage to the glow plugs.

So a combination of the 2 variable inputs to the card will determine the necessity and the duration of the after glow period.

 

[firefox]

If I remember right, the controler reads the temp sensor on the side of the engine
to decide whether to afterglow or not. Since there are several variables that determine
how hot the engine will be at the time it checks, this may not be a simple question.

 

[Bighorn]

The after glow period is based on the GP temperature sensor resistance and the voltage on the orange GP voltage sense input.

If the engine is cold the resistance is high, as the engine temp increases the resistance gets lower and the card will not need to perform as long of an after glow.

If the voltage is higher than designed on the GP voltage sense wire, the card will cycle the GP relay to limit the possibility of damage to the glow plugs.

So a combination of the 2 variable inputs to the card will determine the necessity and the duration of the after glow period.

What I am noticing after restoring the glow plug resistor pack is louder glow plug solenoid engagement and more noticeable solenoid engagement during afterglow.
When the gp resistor is deleted the solenoid is is getting the power to engage from the same 12 volt battery that supplies the glow plugs.
With the resistor pack installed the solenoid gets power from one 12 volt battery but the glow plugs draw from both batteries.
Somehow this makes the gp solenoid louder.
I am not imagining it.

 

[cucvrus]

If I could post a video I would. I know the difference when one has the bypass and one don't. Most times just by starting it cold and watching the volt meter. I don't know the technical terms. I just followed the instructions in the TM and a book that I bought from CUCV electric. Very handy little bible of the glow plug system. That book is lost in my vortex somewhere. But I pretty much memorized it and just keep the information in my head. It was my daily reader for a long time when I had my knee replaced. Have a great day. We sure did wander from 2 new V belts I put on the Mule M1009. And I want to report. Started cold it does not even whisper a squeal. That's the way I like it. Ah ha ah ha. That's the way I like it. Tomorrows another day. Have a great evening.

 

[joshuak]

Here's a cold start video of my '09, outside temp was 37F this morning. The 12v voltmeter is hooked up to a DPST relay, where the NC wire is hooked to an accessory slot in the fuse block and the NO side is hooked up to the glow plugs wires, so when they are energized, that voltage is shown on the 12v voltmeter. I believe it's showing that theere is GP afterglow, and yes the resistor pack is bypassed.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUsDJH7etBo&feature=youtu.be

 

[cucvrus]

Not the same. Mine all go back up to green right away after starting and then you see it drop a bit and then back up in green and then back down again. It does it about 4 times and takes about 30 45 seconds to complete. It will slowly go all the way green to the notch each time. Yours stayed down in the yellow area most of the time. Bighorn. Can you video the action I am describing? I also hear a solid clunk of the relay on the firewall every time. You have 2 volt meters?

 

[joshuak]

Not the same. Mine all go back up to green right away after starting and then you see it drop a bit and then back up in green and then back down again. It does it about 4 times and takes about 30 45 seconds to complete. It will slowly go all the way green to the notch each time. Yours stayed down in the yellow area most of the time. Bighorn. Can you video the action I am describing? I also hear a solid clunk of the relay on the firewall every time. You have 2 volt meters?

I wouldn't expect it to be the same, if you reread AC's post above, the variables would have to be the same between both systems for similar results, not sure that's possible.

The reason for me to share the video was to show that doing the resistor bypass does not inhibit GP afterglow, IMHO. Different or not.

I'm guessing the 2 volt meter question is for bighorn, but yes mine are the original 24v and a 12v that I added.