GEN 1 Issues

[soldierman79]

My GEN 1 light came on while driving the other day. So, I rebuilt it with an alternator rebuild kit that I had from cucvelectric.com and cleaned off the electrical contacts.

GEN 1 light still stays on.

Each battery checks at ~12.5 with the vehicle off. While running, rear battery is at 14.4, front is still at 12.4, front isn't charging.

I followed the below diagnosis from the 'CUCV Alternator Symptoms, Diagnosis and Fix' Thread.

Each alternator is a 12 Volt unit. The big red wire that is bolted on has 12 volts from the battery. The little white plug has 2 wires on it. The thicker is the voltage out of the alternator back to the battery. The smaller wire is the exciter wire.

With the engine off, the big red wire should have battery voltage, so should the bigger wire on the plug and with the plug off, key off, the exciter wire should have nothing.

Turn the key on and the plug off, the exciter wire will have battery voltage along with the other 2.

That all checked out fine with my alternator.



I have posted ignorant questions in the past and got the 'Use the SS Search' response. Well, I have been searching, a lot. I'm still searching.

Any knowledge or insight will be greatly appreciated. Thanks y'all!

 

[Warthog]

So you do have 12v at the small red and brown excitor wires?

Did you reinstall the ground wire from the alternator ground stud to the engine block?

Also does you heater fan work?

 

[soldierman79]

So you do have 12v at the small red and brown excitor wires?

Did you reinstall the ground wire from the alternator ground stud to the engine block?

Also does you heater fan work?

Yes, Sir. 12v constant at red, 12v at brown with key on.

Ground from alternator to block intact.

Fan works, whether on cold or heat. I hear/feel the fan through all the switch positions.

 

[Warthog]

Sounds like some of the "new" parts in the rebuild kit are bad or there might be an issue with the stator or rotor.

There is a step-by-step procedure in the TM to test the individual componets of the alternator.

I would start with the trio-diode.It is usually the bad part and only cost a few buck for a new one.

I have seen many "new" electrical parts that are bad from the factory (east Asia).

 

[soldierman79]

Sounds like some of the "new" parts in the rebuild kit are bad or there might be an issue with the stator or rotor.

There is a step-by-step procedure in the TM to test the individual componets of the alternator.

I would start with the trio-diode.It is usually the bad part and only cost a few buck for a new one.

I have seen many "new" electrical parts that are bad from the factory (east Asia).

Much appreciated! I will do.

Also, I'm still going through the 'CUCV Alternator Symptoms, Diagnosis and Fix' Thread. I have the same belt as when it was working. I'll be getting a new belt as there has always been a mild amount of play. Not enough to squeal though.