Gen 2 wire problem

[Matt Kahle]

Okay I will test that. I'm sorry if I caused any confusion in miss wording vehicle parts. (I have a bad habit of doing that)

 

[Warthog]

No worry. Just a learning experence.

 

[Matt Kahle]

Okay I'm sorry I haven't been posting on what I have done so far I got real sick after my last post and now I'm better. I will work on the truck tomorrow and post what the voltage I get.

 

[Matt Kahle]

Is the excitor plug the plug that's in the back of the gauge cluster? Because I got a nice 24v back from there...

 

[tankie88]

The excitor plug is the 2pin plug that plugs in the top back of the alternator.

 

[Warthog]

The exciter plug is the white plastic two wire plug at the alternator

Tankie you beat me to it. Thanks for your contributions to the site.

 

[Matt Kahle]

Yeah I tested that too and the red wire has 24v but the brown one doesn't.

 

[Matt Kahle]

Well shouldn't the brown wire have voltage?

 

[Warthog]

Should have voltage only when the key is on. 12v on GEN1 and 24v on GEN2

 

[Matt Kahle]

Okay I will check it with the key on.

 

[Matt Kahle]

Okay no power to the brown wire when the key is turned on. Dose that wire go through the fire wall on the passenger side?

 

[Matt Kahle]

Okay I screwed up there was a lose connection in the wiring I connected it and I have 24v on the red wire and 12v on the brown wire. I think that sounds right.

 

[Kevin majors]

Walmart has a multimeter for around $10. Not great but does work. Allows cor checking voltages, ohms, amps and other items. Everyone should have one in their toolbox.

Also remember that we are talking about two different voltmeters. One on the dash and one in your toolbox.

The one on the dash tells us if part of the wiring is working. The one in the toolbox allows us to test the system.

Hey warthog need help gen2 light flashes on when I flip my heater fan on gen1 is Dem help

 

[Tinstar]

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