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Generator connection choices

RJM27

RJM27

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Daybreak said:
Howdy,

Connected to a house panel, you use 4 wires from that panel to your generator, bonding strap removed since you are using the service panel grounding system.


In the field, ground rod in place, bonding strap in place.
Click to expand...
Copy that ! Thanks
 
stugpanzer

stugpanzer

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I am looking at getting one of these manual transfer switches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHTWRDM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_42?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER along with these Hubbel Twist Lock male/female sets (Steel Soldiers Member Zed254 introduced me to those Hubbel's) and some soow 6/4 cord. I will either have a box to plug the hubbel directly in or I will have a male pigtail in a box connected to one side of the manual transfer switch. The 6/4 cord will be a proper cord with male on one enad and female on the other. The male end will plug into another hubbel at the generator and the female end to the outlet or pigtail at the transfer switch. The manual switch and connection point will be right next to the meter which is under cover and out of the elements.
 
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Z

Zed254

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I like the ones from this outfit search auction site for "Hubbell 50A 250v 3Ø 4 Wire Twist Lock Plug Pairs CS-8365L & CS-8364L Lot of 4" for better price. I bought a few; used but the ones I got looked new except for the chunk of wire cable screwed into the receptacle clamps.
 
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Z

Zed254

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69birdman said:
Fellas, I have a pair of those connectors I bought not knowing they're 3 phase, I only have $20 into them. I'd let them go for that plus shipping if someone's interested.
Click to expand...
I received a rude surprise when I ordered these used connectors: 'California Standard' 3Ø connectors are different than the 'California Standard' Marine connectors. But the price was SO much better than the new Marine connectors I had installed on my first generator that I decided to do some tool shed engineering. With wire cutters I trimmed the 'barbs' off of the male posts and with my soldering gun I altered the plastic cover of the female end. My altered connectors work with both the 3Ø and the marine connectors.
 

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jaxbill

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FL
Is anyone here in the construction trades and dealt with EIFS? I hate this stuff.

I've got a thin layer of stucco and foam board before I get to any wood for mounting a heavy transfer switch. I am going to mount the switch to fire retardant plywood and bolt that to a stud. In the past, I've had a problem where tightening down on the bolt starts to compress the stucco/foam. I've never mounted something as heavy as these switches.

I think I need a sleeve but with a bolt that is longer than the sleeve so it can penetrate the wood. The problem is everything at the hardware store is meant for concrete/real stucco and a lot of them expand as the bolt is threaded. I've read some folks use a small diameter PVC between the stud and the exterior of the house. I just can't figure out the "right" way to do this.
 
S

smokem joe

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jaxbill said:
Is anyone here in the construction trades and dealt with EIFS? I hate this stuff.

I've got a thin layer of stucco and foam board before I get to any wood for mounting a heavy transfer switch. I am going to mount the switch to fire retardant plywood and bolt that to a stud. In the past, I've had a problem where tightening down on the bolt starts to compress the stucco/foam. I've never mounted something as heavy as these switches.

I think I need a sleeve but with a bolt that is longer than the sleeve so it can penetrate the wood. The problem is everything at the hardware store is meant for concrete/real stucco and a lot of them expand as the bolt is threaded. I've read some folks use a small diameter PVC between the stud and the exterior of the house. I just can't figure out the "right" way to do this.
Click to expand...

Hold the box up and mark your mounting holes. Predrill a hole big enough for small PVC or aluminum spacer. Make sure you stop the drill when you hit the wood! Take a sharpie and mark the drill bit at the wall. Put the drill out and measure and cut the spacer slightly less than the mark you made on the drill bit. Ideally you would catch a stud with at least one hole because the sheeting on the side of a house is nothing great for holding screws.
 
J

jaxbill

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FL
smokem joe said:
Hold the box up and mark your mounting holes. Predrill a hole big enough for small PVC or aluminum spacer. Make sure you stop the drill when you hit the wood! Take a sharpie and mark the drill bit at the wall. Put the drill out and measure and cut the spacer slightly less than the mark you made on the drill bit. Ideally you would catch a stud with at least one hole because the sheeting on the side of a house is nothing great for holding screws.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'm going to try to locate a stud from the inside and mount the plywood to it in more than 1 place. Then I'll attach the box using the mounting holes.
 
RJM27

RJM27

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Is it safe to say these are the same and won't fit my other Hubble 4 wire
Fellas, I have a pair of those connectors I bought not knowing they're 3 phase, I only have $20 into them. I'd let them go for that plus shipping if someone's interested.
 
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stugpanzer

stugpanzer

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Sandwich, IL
69birdman said:
CS8364L & CS8365L are 3 phase
CS6364C & CS6365C are 1 phase, shape of pins slightly different.
Click to expand...
Those 3 phase Hubbel's can be used for single phase as long as you know what you are doing with the wiring.

The 3 phase plug is wired as X, Y & Z (black, red, blue) which are each of the 'hot legs' plus one more for the ground. I am wiring them as X=120vac, Y=120vac and Z=Neutral, and of course Ground. When making a cord using the male/female Hubbels do the same on both ends and there shouldn't be an issue.
 
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RJM27

RJM27

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Burdett NY
I need the female ends now! Thanks for the suggestion!! Do they make slow cord for 3 phase??
stugpanzer said:
Those 3 phase Hubbel's can be used for single phase as long as you know what you are doing with the wiring.

The 3 phase plug is wired as X, Y & Z (black, red, blue) which are each of the 'hot legs' plus one more for the ground. I am wiring them as X=120vac, Y=120vac and Z=Neutral, and of course Ground. When making a cord using the male/female Hubbels do the same on both ends and there shouldn't be an issue.
Click to expand...
 
69birdman

69birdman

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Yeah I thought about wiring them single phase but then I'd have to change receptacles. I put a straight blade outlet box on my gen and will have twist lock inlet at house. Keeps it more of a common cable. Then when I want to run a load/work out on it, I can plug a 50amp stove directly into my outlet.
 

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