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Getting a MEP-803a Home

tscott8201

New member
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Location
Keystone Heights, Fl.
Just rolled the dice on an MEP-803a from GP. So it looks like I'll be making a road trip from Jacksonville, Fl to Fayetteville, NC and back next week sometime. The unit is trailer mounted and the photos of the trailer show it's in good shape, but my gut is telling me not to trust it on such a long road trip. I'm assuming the smart man would bring a trailer.

What do you all think? Would you chance a long road trip with a surplus trailer in tow?

Also, has anyone picked up from Fayetteville before? Do they typically have a forklift around to assist in loading? Once again, my gut tells me I should bring a come along with me to get the unit on my trailer. Probably smart right?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Tom


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Chainbreaker

Well-known member
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Location
Oregon
My suggestion is to post the model of trailer (I forget what model the 803a typically comes on) and then ask this question in the "Trailer Forum". Or...just read through the trailer forum using the search function for your trailer model within that forum. There are LOTS of great tips there on how to go about doing proper trailer recoveries there.

If it were me, I would prepare for the worst and hope for the best and tow it home. These types of trailers usually tow real nice and you would use less fuel than piggy backing it on a trailer. But if you have a suitable trailer and don't mind trailering both ways nor the extra weight and fuel burn then that eliminates a lot of uncertainty.
 

lonesouth

Active member
322
29
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Location
Tallahassee, FL
Facing a similar decision, though not as far a trip and 2x803s, I decided to piggy back on my equipment trailer. Granted, there are considerable differences between the single genset trailer and the powerplant(2x), namely overall weight and lunette height, mine came in at 4,500# and roughly 34" high. I did not feel comfortable towing that kind of load from Lake Butler to Tallahassee. Thing is, I know how my truck handles when towing the equipment trailer, and I know my trailer and tires are in good shape, and I could use the trailer brakes on my trailer whereas I could not hook up to the military air brakes. I wasn't too concerned about the fuel, using a 1/2 ton to pull anything gets roughly the same MPG, 9-12.
 

tscott8201

New member
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Location
Keystone Heights, Fl.
Trailer is an M116A3. Looks like the pintle ring sits roughly 25" off the ground with the trailer level. Should be just about right for my F250 Super duty. I think I'm leaning towards just hooking her up and hauling her home. I've got AAA if I have any issues and I'll bring some basic tools with me along with some wheel grease.

What kind of wiring connection do these trailers have? 7 Pin?

Tom
 

Hard Head

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Greenville SC
I use a set of 12v magnetic tail lights when towing with my pickup. These things will push you in a sudden stop since you will not have trailer brakes! For recovery runs under a 100 miles I use my 5 ton! I have had a mep-007 on a trailer fight my 5 ton due to no brakes. I now put about 2 tons in the cargo bed and I enjoy the ride! If I have a recovery over 100 miles I hire someone else to take the responsibility!
 

Jbulach

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Location
Sunman Indiana
Don't they have surge brakes? Also take two matching size spares unless you have a 37 inch spare...
 

Haoleb

Member
197
6
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Location
Raymond, Maine
That trailer is the same setup as the one I have, The trailer has surge brakes and the lights will work with 12v (assuming they work) they just will not be quite as bright.

Bring an air pump. I bought my set locally and only had to tow it a few miles home but even though the tires both looked full one side was slightly low looking.. I brought a gauge and a pump with me and one side had only a few lbs or air in it. I am assuming its got run flats installed that's why it did not look flat.

Some folks have had to use chain extensions on the safety chains.
 

joshua1001

New member
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Location
Simpsonville SC
Just another thought, if you get there and its not roadworthy there is the option to rent a two axle uhaul car trailer. Just tell them your towing something like a miata. Cheap alternative if needed.
 

DieselAddict

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Location
Efland, NC
One of the trailers I recovered had a bearing that needed to be lubricated. The hub ran warm on the drive home. I took it easy and it was fine but don't forget if you decide to tow it to stop and check things on a regular basis. Good luck with your adventure.
 

Chrispyny

Member
294
12
18
Location
NY
I recovered my mep-802a on the same trailer. M116. From fort drum to the albany area. 3.5 hours. The trailer was mint. Fresh tires, new axle grease in bearings.
However, the bearings ran hot after 30 minutes. I happened to bring a whole 'recovery kit' with me. Pancake compressor, homda eu2000i genset, tools, towels, floor jack, fix a flat, etc, etc.

I pulled over, popped the grease cap off, hand packed more fresh grease inside the bearing hub, sealed it up, and made it home. The trailer hubs still ran warmer than i would like. I think the castle nuts were put on too tight. But i made it home fine. The max speed painted in my trailer was 55mph. I did 75+ sometimes and my trailer ran fine. Just feel it out.

Ultimately i sold the trailer almost immediately so i never had a chance to look at the hubs.

Bring your own 'recovery kit'.
 

Chainbreaker

Well-known member
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Location
Oregon
Just a FYI and tip...bring a surge lockout bolt with you just in case you need it! - On my first M116A2 recovery I learned that the surge brake mechanism doesn't always work properly. A lot of times the rather small internal shock absorber, within the surge mechanism just behind lunette, is worn out and that will cause the surge braking to behave quite badly in some cases. With a worn out shock damper it will cause the braking to be VERY abrupt, as in, it feels like the trailer is bucking/slamming on-and-off when brakes are applied (the worn shock is having a pogo effect on the master cylinder actuation). It was VERY ANNOYING for the 200 miles I drove back with trailer braking that way. Had to anticipate and try to coast to stops and feather the brakes. Unbeknownst to me at the time, there is a lockout hole that you can put a bolt through (~ 5"x3/8" bolt with nut will do) that will lockout the surge mechanism. With your truck you probably won't even notice your trailer/genset back there even when locking out the trailer brakes. After I got back and locked mine out it pulled and stopped just fine so I never took the bolt out. Just too much hassle to get to and R/R the shock absorber for the 1 trip a year just to refill my onboard auxillary fuel tank I installed.



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JRM

Member
166
12
18
Location
Brightwood, Oregon
My pickup went extreamly smooth- constant contact with the person at the yard who stayed right up to closing as they knew I was driving 1500 miles to get there by 5pm Friday night. Arrived at 4:45PM, Backed right up to the unit- hooked it up, even the huge drag chains fit on the tiny 1/2 ton chev receiver. Tires were at 5PSI and he said they would be fine, but I pulled outside the gate fired up the 803, plugged in my compressor and pumped them up to 30psi- attached 12v mag mount lights to the frame railes as they locked up and went home. Jumped in and drove threw some of the worst sand storm winds I have ever seen- then drove threw pounding rain with highway flooding, napped at Shasta lake with parking lot flooding and water falls shooting off the rock cliff onto the parking lot- woke up at 5am and got stopped at the pass due to snow and no chains on the MEP- I told the trooper that this chevy is equipped with the most intelligent traction control device ever.....the driver! He smiled, looked at the huge 37" good year tires with whiskers still on them and let me go. It pulled perfectly at 70mph and hubs never got warm. Items I took:
Compressor, lug wrench, floor jack, towels, mag mount tail lights, larger D ring's for drag chains, complete tool kit somewhere visable in my hookup photo below

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