Getting an old M725 running again

[Amer-team]

Depending on what you want to do with it. you have an alternative of finding one of the older Wagoneers with this engine and swaping the generator, distributor, and starter and going to 12V. But since it appears that you only need a starter, that might be your quickest get it back on the road trick. It already has civilian plugs, wires, and cap.

Your brake master cyclinder is the protrusion off the firewall about where the aircleaner hose goes into the carb. It has a screw in cap with a protrusion coming out the top. You can see it in the aircleaner photo.

That is a very interesting truck modification and would look really neat painted green again.

 

[zyewdall]

Yes, it has the civillian plugs and wires and cap. The original waterproof plugs are sitting on the radiator, but look pretty beat.

 

[Wintermute]

I can give you a few things you'll need to do since I've been rebuilding my 230 since Feb.

• Carburetor over fuelling due to rotted out seals/o-rings/gaskets (modern fuel eats them apart get a modern rebuild kit, not NOS)
• Fuel pump leaking fuel into the crank case because of rotted out seals/gaskets (modern fuel again...get a rebuild kit from Then and Now Automotive)
• Timing off
• Rockers mis-adjusted (adjust to .008 )
• Fuel tank full of gunk (get it boiled out, replace fuel filters (I put one at the tank and one before the carb))
• Replace all soft fuel lines (cracked and leaking or allowing air into the fuel system)
• Do a full oil change
• Spark plug wires shot (in my case, they were hacked together out of civvy wires and weren't contacting)
• Bad coil (replace it)
• Bad grounds (check them all...pretty much replace them all)
• Alternator regulator burned out (replace alternator...check all wiring to make sure grounds are to negative first and not positive...ask me how I know...alternators are expensive)
• Spark plugs shot (replace them all)
• E-brake band dragging...check, adjust, if necessary replace
• Engine gaskets leaking like sieves...replace them

Some links to places that you'll be able to get parts from:

Erik's Military and Industrial Surplus - Military Vehicle Parts, Industrial and Military Surplus Electronics
Military vehicles for sale, surplus military vehicles for sale ? Memphis Equipment
http://www.ebay.com /
Vintage Power Wagons-- Your Source for Dodge Power Wagon Parts and Trucks! -- civilian military m 37, m-37 wc Dodge Power Wagon
Kaiser Jeep M715 & M725 parts
Saturn Surplus
Surplus City Jeep Parts - M-715
M35 For Sale. Deuces for Sale Turbo Diesel, Army Trucks, Logging, Heavy Trucks, Off-Road Big Trucks, Four Wheel Drive, Parts, Truck Parts, M35 parts, M35A2 parts, Deuce and a half parts, Reo parts, 5 ton parts, M900 parts, military vehicles for sale,
M-Series Rebuild LLC, CUMMINS DIESEL engine for DODGE M37, M37B1, M43,V41, M56 military trucks, civilian power wagon, B1pw, B3pw, C3series, B3 series.

You'll be able to find filler necks around on ebay every once in a while, and some of the suppliers listed above carry them. You'll probably want to switch out the filler cap to a switchable vented version (will switch between vented and non-vented). The gas tank will most likely need to be boiled out. I would recommend adding a fuel filter at the tank and one between the pump and the carb. Check and most likely replace all soft rubber lines in the truck. Go through the maintenance manuals and check pretty much everything. Obviously, do an oil change after you have the pump rebuilt...if the pump was ever run on modern gas without being rebuilt with modern seals and diaphragms, it's probably filled your crank case with gasoline. Check all of the wiring (specifically, check for positive to ground instead of negative to ground...this burns out the alternator but wasn't apparently uncommon to do). Check all of the guages and find out which ones are and which ones aren't working. I would recommend replacing the oil pressure sender right off and possibly the temp sender as well. Obviously, check the timing (you may find you want to replace the mechanical points and condenser with electronic points which are available from M-Series Rebuild). The engine looks to be mostly complete which is good. You can either keep the civvy plugs and wires or go back to the military plugs/wires (this won't necessarily be cheap). The vehicle should use rubber packard connectors throughout which you can get from Erik's military surplus as well as some other places (along with the prestolite wire). Feel free to ask any additional questions, I've got a pretty good handle on that motor and electrical system at this point

--Wintermute

 

[Wintermute]

Ohh, and you'll probably need a new valve cover gasket...they ain't cheap, but I can get them (my cost is $40, your cost from me is $40 + shipping). I found that they're still available in Argentina. They're not that expensive down there, but the shipping to get them here brings the price up to $40 a piece. Just to be clear, I'm not trying to sell anything outside of the classifieds with this post, just listing it as an available place to get a part. I make absolutely no profit on getting this part in and delivered to someone. If this is still out of line, please delete this post.

Thanks,

--Wintermute

 

[zyewdall]

Sounds like these tend to leak like sieves..... which given that my other fun project is an 1967 landrover, I'm perfectly used to It's a form of rust prevention...... usually 90 weight gear oil on them (mine is still currently leaking despite the engine, transmission, and transfer case being out right now

 

[Wintermute]

well, unlike the landrovers (worked on a few of those) with new gaskets, the 6-230 tornado motor will stop leaking

--Wintermute

 

[zyewdall]

LOL. The landrover's actually getting a mercedes turbodiesel engine, so maybe that'll stop it from leaking at least the engine....

 

[Wintermute]

hehe, well, I'll be in the same boat with you soon enough, I'm looking for a Landrover lightweight as my next vehicle

--Wintermute

 

[Chief_919]

Yes, it has the civillian plugs and wires and cap. The original waterproof plugs are sitting on the radiator, but look pretty beat.

Honestly, if it already has the 12v distributer, and you just want to get it going, looking at the fact that it will never be stock again I would get a 12v starter and a generic 1 wire alternator. That will cost you far less than going back to 24v.

 

[91W350]

Did you ever find a starter? I think I have one in my garage, if you still need one, I will check. It is yours for the cost of shipping as I have no need for it here. Glen

 

[waayfast]

Looks like a cool project and my compliments to the last driver of the beast--best parallel parking skills I think I ever saw!