Wear a good mask first. CARC is bad.
On the rust- I use a 40 grit to remove then POR 15. I buy the small tiny cans-they come in a 6-pack. Get the brushes too. Once a can is open, it goes bad even after closing lid. This paint is super tough and seals out oxygen so rust cant live. Do a light sand to get brush marks out after its dry.
Then I light sand with DA and 100 grit. And bad scraped areas-these trucks have thick coats on them-I POR 15 them then do a little bondo to smooth out. I did this only to the real bad areas.
Once light sand, I use Marine Clean-its seems to have an acid in it-smells like muratic acid. Once squirted down, I let it sit for a few minutes then rinse, and rinse and rinse with water.
I then use a sharpy to outline the camo pattern (if your truck is one color). Then I go at it-I give it a coat all over-then another before dry. Next day, I hit it again. The paint takes time to settled down-at first it will look like a clown truck-full clown factor. But after a while it looses the clown look and settles into a very nice flat-satin color. Touch ups are easy and not real noticeable. I used 12 rattle cans to paint my M923 that was one color. I did not worry about being perfect-its an ex mil truck with blemishes all over-thats the way she should look. But the rust-rust is bad-no rust is best. Surface rust will turn into a hole if not taken care of. Now she is camo and looks great. Love looking down that fresh painted football field sized hood while driving-she looks great. I will post new pictures when I get to work.
One side note-I used maring clean on the cab dash-then rinsed, then armoral. It looks almost new again!
Pete
